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Featured Replies

what? 

 

 i  know what the issue is.... i need a head job.

 

 

 

 ryan, so you know why the left head always goes bad? what about that side, makes 6 7 or 8   go thru valves ?

 

 seems how im redoing both heads.. i would like to prevent needing to do it again !

 

 

I don't know what the issue was with yours.  I know some have had coolant issues as the flow stops at the back of the head and air can get trapped back there or crap built up.  If you search any forum that has modular-powered vehicles, you will find hundreds of threads about head coolant mods.

  • Author

ok will do ,

 

 my exhaust valve is not sealing on #7 .... i googled a bit but all i got were the super common issues , plugs shooting out or dropping in..  and  apparently  i need to run a OEM oil filter, and thin oil

ok will do ,

 

 my exhaust valve is not sealing on #7 .... i googled a bit but all i got were the super common issues , plugs shooting out or dropping in..  and  apparently  i need to run a OEM oil filter, and thin oil

 

 

I've run Mobil, Amsoil, and MC filters with no issue.  Filters shouldn't cause any issue.  5W20 will work and should be what's OEM.  Sounds like you got one that was abused.  I'd like to see what the head looks like once the cam cover is removed.  I'm betting there's some sludge in there or once was.

  • Author

 i hope not!

 

 yeah everyone is talking about using 0 20 or 0 30 ... im shocked i have always ran thicker oil in all my 4.6's

 

 from what i read cheap filter 1 can collapse, and two dont have a leak down  and leave the top end dry....

 

 

 i have also read i need to flash the computer and advance the timing 3 degrees

Never heard of that and in my experience, they keep a lot of oil in the heads.  If anything, they starve the bottom end.  Kind of odd you are reading exactly the opposite of all the experience I have had.

 

I've run 5W20 in every modular I've owned, both SOHC and DOHC and one was boosted, another nitrous injected and I have had no issues.  I run the same oil and an Amsoil filter in my Mark, and Mobil filter and oil in my truck.  My dad has run MC oil and filters in all their mods, but only because he  gets the stuff dirt cheap.  I am very hard on my performance vehicles also, so they don't get babied.

  • Author

shit man ..  thats the thing about the skinnernet is conflicting info ...

 

 i guess i need to change the oil.. cause it had 0/30 in it.. then i added like a quart of lucas motor restore shit.. made my oil thick because i had chatter...

  • Author

what set should i get?

 

 i know the 279 comes with a pump and gears... but its cheaper for just the chain and guides  i would hate to install a shitty pump that will only fail.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716072933?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390624904980?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Personally, I would not use anything other than Motorcraft parts.

So what you are saying is that all after market parts are inferior.

Tirefryr, on 02 Jan 2014 - 13:55, said:

No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.

Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?

I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned.

Edited by pmureika

Motorcraft parts only, don't want to have to tear it down and replace it again!

 

Also, if you do new guides and tensioners, don't get the plastic tensioners stick with the steel ones. I just bought new cloyes guides and re-used my original tensioners.

Tirefryr, on 02 Jan 2014 - 13:55, said:No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.

Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned.

Because I know what works and what doesn't. Do it right the first time.

 

Tirefryr, on 02 Jan 2014 - 13:55, said:No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.

Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned.

Because I know what works and what doesn't. Do it right the first time.

Half of the problem is the install just like in car audio. But I would at least use top brands from local parts stores. Not ones off the internet.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

so i got it all done and its running great...  had both heads done full valve job, i ended up using the old chains, i bought new guides and tensioners   .. runs very strong ...

 

 

 but..

 

 true to form as soon as i get my subs reconed for the town car.. took it to work today... beating it on the way home.. as i pull in my drive way i smell sweet and steam is rolloing out of my hood.......

 

 my fucking heater pipe output on my intake manifold broke off!!!.... great .. new intake time.

 the worst part is.. now i cant even meter :(

Dammit bro. Hard to catch a break

true to form as soon as i get my subs reconed for the town car.. took it to work today... beating it on the way home.. as i pull in my drive way i smell sweet and steam is rolloing out of my hood.......

 

my fucking heater pipe output on my intake manifold broke off!!!.... great .. new intake time.

the worst part is.. now i cant even meter sad.png

I know the feeling brother ... If it wasn't for bad luck, we wouldn't have any luck at all.

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