I feel ya on the water resistant...but like you suggested- i am going to have my box bed lined.  But my dad works at a dealer- and I get a deal on the real deal,  never used the canned bed liner- so I can't comment on that.  But ANY plywood is going to swell over time if it gets wet repeatedly- which is why I am using MDF. Why spend all the extra for birch just to bedliner it anyway.

Sexterra and Leedoggs you both have valid points. Sexterra I was leaning more towards SQ with low tuning and use wood dowels like you said. Also, do you think that pocket hole jig will be better than staples? Leedogg, I did used Herculiner before on mdf. Came out good with two coats. I really didn't know if that Baltic Birch would swell, but was going just paint (oil based) it if I went that route.

Edited April 28, 201411 yr by bulldogfreddy

Sexterra and Leedoggs you both have valid points. Sexterra I was leaning more towards SQ with low tuning and use wood dowels like you said. Also, do you think that pocket hole jig will be better than staples? Leedogg, I did used Herculiner before on mdf. Came out good with two coats. I really didn't know if that Baltic Birch would swell, but was going just paint (oil based) it if I went that route.

Sorry man but 2 2500 watt rms 18s ported is not SQ just bc Its tuned low. SQ= aiming for completely flat frequency response through the entire system. Your objective is clean ground pounding, Im just stating this before the real SQ nazis come out on here haha

The baltic birch will handle moisture best out of the 3, and would look amazing with a nice stain, and a good layer of laquer would seal it up really nice. You could also double up the entire thing and do mdf insides, birch outer layer and stain and laquer if youre really set on mdf. But with the volume youll be reaching and equipment youre running, I highly doubt youd notice any "SQ" difference.

I also painted a box and amprack with herculiner, looks great but will probably never use that shit again. Such a pain in the ass to work with and clean up. Also has a bit too much texture for my liking. Ill be using the rustoleum rattle can for my box I'm working on, much easier and less messy although much less durable and waterproof etc.

This was my herculiner result...

Sexterra and Leedoggs you both have valid points. Sexterra I was leaning more towards SQ with low tuning and use wood dowels like you said. Also, do you think that pocket hole jig will be better than staples? Leedogg, I did used Herculiner before on mdf. Came out good with two coats. I really didn't know if that Baltic Birch would swell, but was going just paint (oil based) it if I went that route.

Sorry man but 2 2500 watt rms 18s ported is not SQ just bc Its tuned low. SQ= aiming for completely flat frequency response through the entire system. Your objective is clean ground pounding, Im just stating this before the real SQ nazis come out on here haha

The baltic birch will handle moisture best out of the 3, and would look amazing with a nice stain, and a good layer of laquer would seal it up really nice. You could also double up the entire thing and do mdf insides, birch outer layer and stain and laquer if youre really set on mdf. But with the volume youll be reaching and equipment youre running, I highly doubt youd notice any "SQ" difference.

Lol, thought I would give it a try. But you right, they would have ripped me a new one.

Sexterra, I rolled mines. Did you rolled it or sprayed it. But it do leave a texture. Might have to see if lacquer will do well far as look and water resistant.

Those are some nice boxes.  I like the textured look.  mine will only be lined on the rear- where it will be subject to moisture.  A laquered Baltic box would be sweet looking.

 

sending you a pm Bulldog

Sexterra, I was thinking about the final baffle to be birch while the rest will mdf(hurcliner) with a birch trim plate (lacquer).

Sexterra, I was thinking about the final baffle to be birch while the rest will mdf(hurcliner) with a birch trim plate (lacquer).

 

Im not sure I understand what youre getting at?

 

Are you saying build the box from mdf, but the second baffle will be birch, and then bedline the mdf portion with herculiner. And make panels of birch to cover the bedlined mdf portion?

Sexterra, I rolled mines. Did you rolled it or sprayed it. But it do leave a texture. Might have to see if lacquer will do well far as look and water resistant.

 

Yeah, I rolled it. Tried to use a fuzzy roller at first. big mistake, all the fuzz came off into the liner, so i used a foam one. Much better. Wound up getting some of it on my hands though, boy was that fun to get off 

 

The lacquer would probably be your best bet for waterproofing. and would look awesome over a stain.

Yes, the baffle will be triple stack. So the first two will be mdf with the third one will be birch. Top, bottom, back and sides being belined. Now I was talking about make a replacement midgate trim piece from birch or fiberglass. Front baffle and midgate being lacquered. But you say that lacquer will be a better choice for the birch but what about for the mdf. Sorry, typing from phone.

Edited April 29, 201411 yr by bulldogfreddy

Yes, the baffle will be triple stack. So the first two will be mdf with the third one will be birch. Top, bottom, back and sides being belined. Now I was talking about make a replacement midgate trim piece from birch or fiberglass. Front baffle and midgate being lacquered. But you say that lacquer will be a better choice for the birch but what about for the mdf. Sorry, typing from phone.

I guess you could seal the Mdf with lacquer. It may take a bit mor lawyer though.

I'm just not really sure why you're so hung up on using Mdf? It would cost you maybe 80$ more to do birch ove mdf, and you already have a good bit invested. I probably see more people use birch than Mdf, and it sounds great. And in your application just seems like a much better choice since it's more resilient to moisture, as well as stiffer than Mdf.

I'd also be willing to bet that stain and lacquer is gonna be a good bit cheaper than herculiner.

Yes, the baffle will be triple stack. So the first two will be mdf with the third one will be birch. Top, bottom, back and sides being belined. Now I was talking about make a replacement midgate trim piece from birch or fiberglass. Front baffle and midgate being lacquered. But you say that lacquer will be a better choice for the birch but what about for the mdf. Sorry, typing from phone.

I guess you could seal the Mdf with lacquer. It may take a bit mor lawyer though.

I'm just not really sure why you're so hung up on using Mdf? It would cost you maybe 80$ more to do birch ove mdf, and you already have a good bit invested. I probably see more people use birch than Mdf, and it sounds great. And in your application just seems like a much better choice since it's more resilient to moisture, as well as stiffer than Mdf.

I'd also be willing to bet that stain and lacquer is gonna be a good bit cheaper than herculiner.

I see where the mix up is now. You talking about birch ply while I was talking about baltic birch which is $52.00 for 5'x5'. Will have to check HD and Lowes for birch ply. Think they have 5 ply and might just skip the mdf like you stated. Will have redo cut sheets and design if I apply birch over mdf. Thanks for the input.

Edited April 30, 201411 yr by bulldogfreddy

search for a local lumber yard, dont buy from menards, HD, or lowes - their prices are insane compared to a lumber yard.

Just the benefit from not having all that damn MDF dust is worth using birch alone, lol. 

Just the benefit from not having all that damn MDF dust is worth using birch alone, lol.

I know and I seen that the lumber yard had 1" mdf.

search for a local lumber yard, dont buy from menards, HD, or lowes - their prices are insane compared to a lumber yard.

I seen one lumber yard have prefinished birch on both sides.

Baltic birch would still be ply, it's just a higher grade. The recommendation for a lumber yard is a great one, that will save a good bit of $, and get you higher quality wood most likely.

Mdf dust sucks. I can't imagine that I would use Mdf again.

You only need one side finished, so if you can save $ there also. Only one side needs to be pretty haha

I really want to see this thing stained up nice when it's done.

Also if you can, try to get 9 or 13 ply birch. It's stronger than 5, and if there are any voids they would be much less significant.

Also if you can, try to get 9 or 13 ply birch. It's stronger than 5, and if there are any voids they would be much less significant.

There a big difference from baltic birch ply and shop birch (11 or 13) for this kind of application.

Also if you can, try to get 9 or 13 ply birch. It's stronger than 5, and if there are any voids they would be much less significant.

There a big difference from baltic birch ply and shop birch (11 or 13) for this kind of application.

The more plys, the more directions the grain can be angled in, the stronger. So it is more rigid. It's what most of the guys I know who build boxes use.

Well, I finally went out and brought the the Baltic Birch and it is about the same weight as mdf. It did cut light butter. Still have to go over the cuts with my flush trim bit and cut the holes out for the subs.

Looking good, get some bracing in there and she will be stout.

Looking good, get some bracing in there and she will be stout.

Going brace with 2" dowels and still have to cut and place corner braces. Still debating on running a full port divider down middle or a partial. Made the box a little bigger than design. 50" X 20" X 38".

Looking good, get some bracing in there and she will be stout.

Going brace with 2" dowels and still have to cut and place corner braces. Still debating on running a full port divider down middle or a partial. Made the box a little bigger than design. 50" X 20" X 38".

Looks good man! I think you'll be happy with the birch decision.

I probably would try to avoid putting a brace in the port as it'll increase turbulence in there. Maybe just double up the side walls of the port and round over the ends.