I like to wear disposable latex gloves, nothing smells worse to me than gear oil or bearing grease and it doesn't come off.

Mechanix Gloves here....

I wear those but not when I am going to get any sort of petroleum on them, then disposables are preferred in my book.

I take the greese stains and knicked up hands as battle scars

Also, Ford pisses me off. They reccomend 10-17in/lbs for the hub nut. That is finger tight. I dont even own an in-lbs torque wrench that goes that low. Hell I dont think I've seen one. I'm sure they make them but that is some seriously sensetive equiptment as far as 'basic' hand tools go.

Just put a one pound weight on a 12" wrench. That does seem ridiculously low though.

at first I thought it was ft-lbs then I looked at the bottom of the list in the book and it said all are in in-lbs.

I took my wrench that has a 25in-lb incraments up to 300 (uses a scale instead of the release 'clickley' mechanism) and turned untill it reached just below 25, backed off 1/2 turn then did it agian.

When I took the hub/rotor assembely off I literally only needed a screw driver to remove the dust cap, needle nose plyers for the cotter pin, and that is it. The rest came off by hand.

Tighten the hub nut until there is a little bit of drag on the bearings, then back the nut of 1/8-1/4 turn and put the keeper on the castle nut and install the cotter pin. Don't put too much emphasis on the torque rating.

Odd thing, the manual says to either use new bolts OR apply thread lock on the caliper mounting bracket bolts. only says 120in-lbs but when I tried to remove it took all of my weight and a 24' braker bar. That is almost 300 ft-lbs.

Loctite is always good on stuff you want to make sure WON'T come loose. These small torque increments are lending me to believe the manual is written for an aluminum spindle, which you obviously do not have.

It's the Hayman's manual for my truck. There are much higher ratings for modles up to '94 then they get substantially lower.

Haynes manuals are junk.

Tighten the hub nut until there is a little bit of drag on the bearings, then back the nut of 1/8-1/4 turn and put the keeper on the castle nut and install the cotter pin.

Edited August 19, 200619 yr by Adrian_D

Ryan, I did what you said and it works great, I actually thing I had it too tight before because now it spins a little better.

I got it all back togather yesterday and did a coupe runs up and down my street to make sure the brakes where going to work and that the tires wherent wobbleing any. Then I drove about 200yds with the brakes held to ware them in some (I read somewhere it can only help). Then took it up to 30, cut the engine....no baring noise or anything. Same thing at 60. Then I did a few 60-0 gradual brakes and the brakes work wonderfully. Then I did a few 60-0 "panic" brakes (to where ABS kicked in) and I am actually stopping much better. The pads hadnt even gotten past the blue "brake in" stripe where the box says panic braking will get better past this brake in stripe (like the first 1/16" of the pad).

All in all I only spent ~ $110. Would have been $10 cheaper but my hook up at the machine shop doesnt work on fridays. Next time I know to be a little more careful when removeing the dust cap too. Never thought a little aluminum cup would cost me $5.98. I'll also be more conservative with my brake cleaner or just use kerosene (sp) so I dont have to buy two cans.