Posted January 25, 20178 yr So, I'm currently using the time alignment feature on my prs80. Tweeters are on the pillars about eye level .The mids are in the doors , in the stock location . I was thinuking of adding a pair of hertz esk 165 in some qform kick panels . I would be wiring them parallel to the doors . Would time alignment be affected significant enought to cause a problem .?The kicks would be about 8 in farther away, and almost on axis .
January 25, 20178 yr Author 1 minute ago, Randal Johnson said: Please refresh my memory. What type of vehicle are we working with here ??? 2000 silverado 3 door . The Door location is the lower corner . From the pictures I've seen of the kicks , they are reasonably close . I could run active with t/a just on the tweeters since the are so much closer to my ears . Either way I'm just guessing at the outcome .
January 25, 20178 yr If there close to the same location and they are the same exact mid I don't think it would hurt staging. I have run passive mids that way and honestly couldn't tell any audible difference but all vehicles are different. It may take a little trial and error to find out for sure.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 4 minutes ago, Billy Jack said: If there close to the same location and they are the same exact mid I don't think it would hurt staging. I have run passive mids that way and honestly couldn't tell any audible difference but all vehicles are different. It may take a little trial and error to find out for sure. They would be very close in location , but the drivers are my old hertz esk 165's. The doors have a pair of hertz millie ml1600.
January 26, 20178 yr One problem you're going to run into is limited air space. Even if you vent into the kick wall your still going to be limited compared to the doors.
January 26, 20178 yr 3 hours ago, Cwallaker said: 2000 silverado 3 door . The Door location is the lower corner . From the pictures I've seen of the kicks , they are reasonably close . I could run active with t/a just on the tweeters since the are so much closer to my ears . Either way I'm just guessing at the outcome . I dont See the point of going active running parallel ofF the Kicks., defeating the cause.... my 2 cents
January 26, 20178 yr Author 2 hours ago, Billy Jack said: If there close to the same location and they are the same exact mid I don't think it would hurt staging. I have run passive mids that way and honestly couldn't tell any audible difference but all vehicles are different. It may take a little trial and error to find out for sure. They would be very close in location , but the drivers are my old hertz esk 165's. The doors have a pair of hertz millie ml1600.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 39 minutes ago, garychurch84 said: I dont See the point of going active running parallel of the doors, defeating the cause....just my 2 cents Active , as in using the same x over points as the doors. I'm thinking because the kicks would be so close in position to the doors ,it would be similar to running another driver in the door . Well sort of; except the kicks would facing me on axis . I wasn't thinking of mounting tweeters down there , just the mids . I just want a stronger front stage because I'm about to double my subs power with a synergy wfo 35.1 to my Xcon's . I'm also waiting on a ported box from Dave Marin @high output enclosures . I have been thinking it would be much easier to add cone area up front with a pair of kick panels . I can guess or speculate about it working out or not . I'm hoping either someone has done it , or has a actual reason why it won't work .
January 26, 20178 yr Author Here's a link to a photo of the kicks in relation to the doors drivers . https://goo.gl/images/ic66tF
January 26, 20178 yr 1 hour ago, Cwallaker said: Here's a link to a photo of the kicks in relation to the doors drivers . https://goo.gl/images/ic66tF It will work, at that high of a db level I don't think your going to notice staging that much anyways. Now if you don't crank it and listen at low to moderate levels then I wouldn't do it just because your using different drivers off axis and on axis.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 9 minutes ago, Billy Jack said: It will work, at that high of a db level I don't think your going to notice staging that much anyways. Now if you don't crank it and listen at low to moderate levels then I wouldn't do it just because your using different drivers off axis and on axis. Why do diffrent drivers matter ? As long as both are capable of the same share of the spectrum, and power handling ? Is there a science to this conclusion , or experiance ? I really only wonder about the t/a because with my prs80; when I switch from drivers to front there is a significant overall volume diffrence . The drivers setting is louder on all channels. As my listening tastes , I love loud music . It helps me focus . I regularly listen at level 51 out of 63 on the deck . Thanks to all who have replied .
January 26, 20178 yr Waste of money. Your stage will be destroyed along with any imaging you have. First step in fixing you have is understanding where you are lacking. I get you like it loud and want it louder, but what part of the music spectra is missing the most?
January 26, 20178 yr From my past Silverado experience, you will be better off treating your doors and upgrading what you have. Just Saying
January 26, 20178 yr Author 8 hours ago, ///M5 said: Waste of money. Your stage will be destroyed along with any imaging you have. First step in fixing you have is understanding where you are lacking. I get you like it loud and want it louder, but what part of the music spectra is missing the most? I wish I had the knowledge to describe what I feel is missing . I bought the prs80 because the shop told me it would automatically adjust the eq settings , and Time alignment. Is this not true ? Also I was just planning ahead for more volume in the front for when I really turn it up with so much sub .
January 26, 20178 yr 3 minutes ago, Cwallaker said: I wish I had the knowledge to describe what I feel is missing . I bought the prs80 because the shop told me it would automatically adjust the eq settings , and Time alignment. Is this not true ? Also I was just planning ahead for more volume in the front for when I really turn it up with so much sub . It does have a auto adjuat feature. Not very good at all. Treat your doors and focus on install. Maybe upgrade but only after you address inatall. I'm pretty sure that adding more will only create other problems.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 3 minutes ago, Randal Johnson said: From my past Silverado experience, you will be better off treating your doors and upgrading what you have. Just Saying I'm already running millie ml1600 in a heavily deaden door . I have 3 layers of damplifier, I have overkill pro inside ,and out; with luxury liner pro over that . I'm running class a/b power , with power to spare from a p1000x2 ab , and a p300x2 ab. I was under the impression I have the best . Well I know that's subjective but , if there is an upgrade from where I'm at; I don't know about it . I'm always open to suggestions.
January 26, 20178 yr 48 minutes ago, Cwallaker said: I wish I had the knowledge to describe what I feel is missing . I bought the prs80 because the shop told me it would automatically adjust the eq settings , and Time alignment. Is this not true ? Also I was just planning ahead for more volume in the front for when I really turn it up with so much sub . The auto setting on the PRS is awful. It will do it, but it will REALLY screw it up. If you are using that we should first fix your current install as it really doesn't work...in particular in a Silverado. I ran it once in mine to test it, completely pointless option IMO.
January 26, 20178 yr 44 minutes ago, Cwallaker said: I'm already running millie ml1600 in a heavily deaden door . I have 3 layers of damplifier, I have overkill pro inside ,and out; with luxury liner pro over that . I'm running class a/b power , with power to spare from a p1000x2 ab , and a p300x2 ab. I was under the impression I have the best . Well I know that's subjective but , if there is an upgrade from where I'm at; I don't know about it . I'm always open to suggestions. Any pictures of the inner doors? Midbass REQUIRES you seal off the big huge hole in your door so that the back wave doesn't interfere with the front. The goal is to get it as IB as possible.
January 26, 20178 yr As for your not knowing how to describe it. Please work on this. Go play some music (not spoken word and digital beats) but actual full band and listen for what seems out of balance and describe it. Lots of people like to use the Live Eagles Hotel California for this as it has space in the music, has really hard to reproduce drums, and is generally a pretty balanced recording. I personally would use something else, but something you are not super familiar with but still know is best.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 11 minutes ago, ///M5 said: Any pictures of the inner doors? Midbass REQUIRES you seal off the big huge hole in your door so that the back wave doesn't interfere with the front. The goal is to get it as IB as possible. As soon as I can post pix I will . I did seal off all openings not needed to replace the outer panel . I used sheet metal , then treared the doors with the aforementioned deadner. I will try to do some listening , and figure what I do , and don't like . Since my issues are with my front stage , should I turn the subs off ? Side note : I figured out how to switch phase in the deck this morning , and when I reversed the phase of the tweeters the sounded a little richer, brighter , with more sizzle; for lack of a bether word . So then I reversed phase on the mids , and it sounds a bit better as well . So I see there are significant gains to be made by understanding how to use what I have .
January 26, 20178 yr At some point I will have you listen to EVERY driver independently and in every combination, but for starters I would do both with and without sub. No matter what I am sure your sub will overpower the mids as deep midbass from a 6.5" compared to output from something with a much larger cone isn't going to happen. That is a foregone conclusion however so what is important is to find the areas you need improvement so we can improve them. Adding a second set of drivers in the kicks has a great chance of only making it worse so that is the thing we would try last...and if you do it HAS to be the same mid as the door. No matter what you will not be adding a second set of tweeters as that would really be destructive to everything you have tried to accomplish so far.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 56 minutes ago, ///M5 said: At some point I will have you listen to EVERY driver independently and in every combination, but for starters I would do both with and without sub. No matter what I am sure your sub will overpower the mids as deep midbass from a 6.5" compared to output from something with a much larger cone isn't going to happen. That is a foregone conclusion however so what is important is to find the areas you need improvement so we can improve them. Adding a second set of drivers in the kicks has a great chance of only making it worse so that is the thing we would try last...and if you do it HAS to be the same mid as the door. No matter what you will not be adding a second set of tweeters as that would really be destructive to everything you have tried to accomplish so far. I guess I'll put the esk's in my sauna then . Adding a second set of ml1600 will be spendy . Thank you gentlemen. Are there any existing threads , or resources to help me wit eq settings , and t/a ? The search feature almost always comes up with no results for me .
January 26, 20178 yr Can't remember with that specific year truck, but there may be enough fabrication room to install an 8" driver in each door. May be something you can check on.
January 26, 20178 yr Author 3 minutes ago, Randal Johnson said: Can't remember with that specific year truck, but there may be enough fabrication room to install an 8" driver in each door. May be something you can check on. Any recommendations for an 8 in a 2 way plus sub setup ?
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