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j-roadtatts

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Posts posted by j-roadtatts

  1. Posted

    when it was quite cold when i was fiberglassing my sail panels it took about 14 hours to cure trippy.gif and it wasn't even that thick. It was about ~40-50f when i glassed and it was horrible.

    I don't understand how this is posible, Mine was hard to the touch in about an hour at 20 degrees with no sun and alot of cold wind. I used the max recommened hardener and thats it.

    Next time you do fiberglass feel how hot the resin gets......

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  2. Posted

    Thanks guys, I will definetly check out that tap plastics resin. I stumbled upon there site a few days ago and it seems like a good place to buy from. Im guessing you are talking about the roller that tap plastic sells here Bubble Buster Rollers: TAP Plastics

    As far as resin not needing heat, I was always under the impression that the hardener must hit a certain temp before it starts working like it should. I could be wrong though. I'll continue using the my method as it is working well for me.

    Like I said this is my own personal experince not something I heard. I was only thinking about your heater/AC vents stinking forever. Good luck!

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  4. Posted

    Welcome to SSA.

    I'm glad to see people that aren't afraid to get thier hands dirty. I will be tuned in.

    Fiberglass hardens through chemical reaction and has nothing to heat because Resin produces its own heat. I did some a couple weeks ago outside at 20 degress with no sun and used the max recommended hardener. The fiberglass still hardened in about an hour.

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  5. Posted · Edited by j-roadtatts

    I have three options for the tweeters. I can leave them where they are now, I can put them back in the A-pillars or up against the winshield firing straight up, refrecting off the winshield. I have tried the tweeters I have now in all three spots. against the winsheild definetly had the highest sound stage naturally, the A pillars ONLY sounded good IF I leaned forward so the a-pillars could probly sound pretty good with on axis pods, I have an extra set of A-pillars with a hole already in them. THe tweeters in the doors where they are now definetly gives the most detail and I can make the on axis if wanted . All spots required different att. to match the levels so the closer proximty of the doors requires less power.

    I do have the polarity switched on the tweeter right now because was out of phase in the door. They where like BARK, BARK.

    THe midrange is as good as its probably gonna get afar as location and on-axis short of running 3 1/2's or 4 1/2's in the A-pillar, and with time alinment they are pretty good distance wise.

    The midbass can go behind the midrange, in the back door, or under the front seats.

    I don't have a golden ear so 3db shift is probably an understatement.

    med_gallery_10399_356_24422.jpg

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  6. Posted

    I don't quite understand. You have a 2way+sub crossover in the Alpine unit and then refer to using the XS's crossover. Which are you planning to do?

    The XS crossover flexibility is a huge joke compared to the active capability of the H100; however, you reference a 3 way above and it isn't capable of doing a 3 way so again I am not sure what you are leaning towards.

    As for mounting locations. Giving us your options would help. It sounds like that you have door pods and potentially can do A pillar mounts, but some more detail and even pictures would be really helpful.

    The problem with the 9886 and H100 is once the H100 is used I only get the 3 RCA channel's. My next option is Y the mid channel and use the crossovers in the amps for the midbass--midrange since I won't be adjusting this point much. This will leave the HU crossover's for sub--midbass and midrange--tweeter points with no passive crossovers. If I do this I will use a third smaller amp for the tweeters. I have a RF punch 301 amp I will use for the tweeters.

    You should now by now Sean that I will put in ALL the EFFORT it take's to make myself happy. I LOVE to build things with my hands, quit smoking 3 years ago, quit drinking 1 1/2 ago, and have a SHIT LOAD of extra Energy and spare time on my hands. I will build and re-build until I am happy with the results and learn alot along the way.

    My next post will be a picture and options.

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  7. Posted

    I agree the challenge is all in the install and that is the part you need to focus on first. Mounting locations might make some drivers not so user friendly and others fit right in. Knowing where you can put things and what level of install effort you are willing to put in will really help us narrow down the driver selection. Without this information I wouldn't even think of selecting drivers smile.gif

    I know install is 75% of the sound stage, I will start with the door pod's I have now for the 6.5 and the tweeter in the spot I have them know. I will place the 6x9 under the armrest behind the midrange. I can make them on axis also.

    I will move the tweeter's around with velcro if I can't get them to sound good mounted flat in the door. I can make pods for the tweters to put the on axis.

    I will NOT put speakers's in the kick pod's as I live in Colorado and they would get destroyed.

    Damn you type to fast M5, I will anwser the next post now.

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  8. Posted

    I have placed the tweeters I have now in the door, a-piilar and in the factory location against the winshield. I understand I will have to work with placement to achieve a good sound stage, but every setup and speaker is different. The XS crossover has ALOT of adjustment for tweeter placement ALSO. I know I can raise the sound stage with a little EQ if needed.

    The passenger midrange in my car is on axis with me and the driver's side is less than 30 degrees from the use of door pod's.

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  10. Posted

    I am almost done with my sub-stage and Sound deadening So its time to start planning my front set-up.

    I want a midbass in the front door with my midrange and tweeter Now that I will no longer have rear's. I had been thinking of a round misbass but have heard such great things about the XS-69's and know they are same SD as an 8". I am also VERY interrested in the XS-65 comps for the mids and tweeters, but honestly have never heard any of them. I like the speaker's specs, ID customer service, and want to give my money to an American company. I will be driving 200 miles to Denver to hear them for myself before making any final decision.

    I am after flat response, Good sound stage, and good imaging. Dare I use the "SQ" term? I know ALOT of these things's will be achieved through tuning and placement. I am a patient guy and know that I will be tuning and adjusting for a few months after installation. NOT a problem.

    I will be using the 3-way mode on my PXA-H100 for the crossover, sub--midbass--midrange and tweeter. The XS-65 midrange has a natural roll-off and the crossover that come's in the comp set adjust's the tweeter ONLY. I plan on running 2 MRP-F600 amp's bridged. One for the midbass and the other for the mid's and tweeter's. both set's of speaker's are rated at 225 watt's and Eric Stevens the ID tech says these are good for 300 watt's with a CLEAN signal and SMART user plus I like ALOT of overhead because 60 year's of different studio recording style's leaves's ALOT to be desired sometime's.

    Like I said in the title I am ONLY planning at this point, I aleady have front comp's installed to get me by for now. I am open to suggetion's and will consider raw drivers if someone want's to take the time to help me pick them, I get a headache trying to go through all the options at Parts Express and Madi-Sound.

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  11. Posted

    I found it threw fi's site also, glad I did

    trink40.gif

    x2 through Fi's website...only thing, i never left trink40.gif

    Hey x3 for Fi website.....How did I end up there? "my eye" of course. I had been looking at RE, TREO, Memphis, Matts, and any other high powered name brand sub I could when I found Fi on youtube.

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  12. Posted · Edited by j-roadtatts

    Looks like you sprayed foam in all the gaps of the floor, did you spray a lot or what (I need to do my floors), it didnt make the metal expand up also did it? Thanks since the foam can be a cheap fix until I purchase my foam and foam to lay on floor. Did you put any foam on the floor between the mlv and dampener, just curious since I didnt see any pictures of it layed down unless you skipped pictures on it?

    I only filled the seat rail part. What you see in the picture is just what came out the holes. I am debating filling the bottom door jam and a-b pillars because I think they all connect together and noise travels through them like a cave or tunnel. this will be VERY LAST thing I do if at all. Probly make the car not crumple like it's suppose to in a wreck though?

    I glued the LLP right to the damplifier, I think the glue is important because otherwise theres open space under and noise can travel easier. also connects all layers to create one thick layer.(metal,damplifier,CCF,MLV)

    The foam does not possess the force to bent the steel. I think the foam would not expand all the way before bending 18-16ga steel.

    I am REALLY excited to do around the box because this will encase most of the rear wheel wells with the foam. I think the foam is very effective in holding a panel from resonating.

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  13. Posted

    Ordered 4 more sheets of LLP and another 40 sq ft of Damplifier. I also ordered 15 more feet of power wire from knu konceptz, should be enough wire to finish all the power. I got the car put back together also. rolleyes.gif

    GOD I should be close to installing the box. You know what the say: 7 P's= Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Peformance......tongue.gif

    Ya I do nice work, just not very much of it.laugh.gif

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  14. Posted

    M5 nailed it on the head.

    If you are going to attemp sound deadening I suggest understanding the science behind what you are trying to accomplish.

    A car will NEVER be dead silent or free of resonation, but can become ALOT quieter than they came from the factory. This is why you must understand what the end result will be and NOT expect the car to be DEAD silent but alot quieter.

    Mass loaded vinyl not only blocks outside noises but will also trap the sound of my stereo inside the car, WHERE I WANT IT.

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  15. Posted

    From what I gather, "dampener" (Dynamat, Damplifier, et al) are for loading a flat panel with weight to reduce resonance. The use for this would be the door skins, for example. Parts where there are curves, welds, etc are decently stiff already.

    Then you get into MLV and CCF, which are noise "blockers." Putting down 50 layers of Dynamat on the floor may make a difference...but...it takes a lot of it, and it's the wrong application.

    The ideal application would be CCF with an unbroken layer of MLV on top, glued together, with 100% coverage from both.

    None of this is my own info...just the cliffs from what I've learned. For a bonus for all my fellow cheap asses ( biggrin.gif ), you could use some of the "jute" aka "carpet backing" that you can get at The HD. There's already some under your stock carpets and carpeted trim panels...that's the stuff biggrin.gif

    Yes damener is to stop panel resonantion. Do People NEED dampener under the CCF or MLV on the floor, Probly not but I went the extra little bit beacuse I DON'T plan on ever removing again!!!

    Dampener is like holding your finger in the middle of a resonating panel, This is why you want the Mass of the dampener in the middle of big panels acting as your finger.

    I will only be biulding up mass on the centers of the front doors everything else will only be the single layer. The only other place I can think of needing mass is the middle of the roof, once again the last thing I will do.

    Yes the ideal coverage of CCF and MLV would be EVERYWHERE and unbroken, unfortunately this is not possible in a car(humps, curves, shifter, pedal rods, steering column, opening doors, glass, where the trim and bolts go) so we do the best we can and live with it.

    If I ever do another car I will try doing the layers seperate, not because I don't like LLP beause I do, just to see for myself what is easier and what works better. I love to learn SO I am learning and hopefully so is someone else.

    I did 2-3 pieces of foil tape on all edges and seems,unless you are goint to glue EVERY edge perfect I still recommend the tape. I bought my tape at wal-mart ant it was VERY sticky and RIGID.

    Let me know if you have any questions, I am glad to share.

    Good luck getting the upholstery back in if you use the carpet pad.....

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  16. Posted · Edited by j-roadtatts

    Ground loop is when voltage changes from different points in the car due to resistance in the paths of current. This can be measured with a DMM, don't waste your time though. Just make sure all the audio grounds are hooked to the same spot. If this doesn't work, run a small wire from the battery ground to the ground point then you know you have no voltage drop. This wire only has to be 14-12ga. and does NOT need a fuse.

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  18. Posted

    looks solid. how much weight is that total?

    reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

    It should, same application really smile.gif Lead sheeting works in the car too, but it isn't so cost effective.

    Might add on just a couple more pounds too, just a couple.

    Which is also the goal.

    Yes weight and mass are good things, just not to much or in the WRONG places.

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  19. Posted

    Both tweeters look pretty good, the Vifi has a little smoother response. I wanna try a textile tweeter someday. Either one plays pretty low, definetly good for active. I can't wait to see how you like em'.

    Is this your first active set-up?

    I drive to SoCal 3-4 times a year with the familly in my honda, I might have to find a show when I'm there, otherwise I will probly find one here in colorado on the Eastern Slope. My biggest problem is I work weekends, F*cks my schedule all up........

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  22. Posted

    looks solid. how much weight is that total?

    reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

    The total weight added to the car from LLP and Damplifier will be 153lbs. This will be a total of 8 sheets LLP @10.8 lbs a sheet and 100 sq ft Damplifier @ .65 lbs a sq ft.

    I just ordered another 4 sheets of LLP and another 40 sq ft Damplifier, I wish Don would of called but I can't wait for other people, not my style. f*ck at least I'm spending every dollar I can to People in America, Lets get this MuthaFucka rollin' again.

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