lt1z323

I was under the impression that I couldnt use many of the prs80's features because you cant use passives in network mode.

I recently had a 3sixty.3 failure and decided I no longer wanted a separate processor. Now im looking into head-units that can give me what my 3sixty did. My setup consists of a set of rockford T5 comps and an Fi Q. When I had the 3sixty I Used my T400-4 to bi amp the T5 passive giving me a the ability to eq mids and tweeters seperatly. I realize that I may not need that and decided to bridge the amp and not bi amp anymore. So with that I need is a headunit with time alignment and a decent eq. The head unit I have in mind is the alpine cde-149bt; it does t/a but only gives a 9 band parametric eq. I guess my question is do you thing 9 bands will be enough?

The T1000-1 I have gets warm never hot though. The T400-4 I have is on the same heat sink and it gets hot however it is a class a/b and is under a seat so it's to be expected. My electrical consists of a DC 270amp alt and an xs power d2400.

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good. And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad. This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing. I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades.

Compression plug helps with cooling. Yes you should be able to purchase a dustcap from Fi.

If it's an older Q that would be the BP power plug and i'm sure it can be glued back but wait for nick to reply.

Depends on the slope, I wouldn't be surprised if it is using a 1st order network. Either way, why go active with a set of drivers that you have a crossover for already? Was already set up for running active, my previous components were also running active before the switch to bravox.

Naw you had to read this wrong somehow, there is no way a mid is going to stop at 1000hz and have a big gap from 1000hz to 4200hz to where your tweeter will start playing. It is hard to pick frequencies before placing speakers in a car, once you install then you can see how they react in a real setting instead of on paper of what can be suggested. Your first going to need to find the limits to your tweeters, whats the lowest frequency they can play at without getting damage. You have to take your listening habits and volume level in accordance with the frequency range and slope level as well. For instance lets say you have your tweeters set at 3600hz at 12db but after like 30 minutes or once you reach volume 30 your tweeters start to crackle or sound distorted then you have three options to correct this situation. You can either raise the frequency response some if you want to stay at a 12db slope, you can also just raise the slope from 12db to 24db and see if that helps or you can turn the gain down on your amp some but usually one, two or all three may need to be done. Not the best info to help you get started on active but just the simple version that can get way more complicated, do some reading on active and slope levels. It helped me in the past, plus there are a couple of active threads on this board since I made one around the beginning of the year. Hope that helps Here is where i read it. Right now i have mids band-passed fron 80 to 4250hz with a 24db slope and tweeters high-passed at 4250 with a 24db slope, later i'll try a few different settings and report back.

I have a set of Bravox Audio CS60K components and i was wondering if anyone could recommend crossover points? Ive read that the supplied passives low-pass the mid 1000hz@6db and high-pass the tweet at 4200hz@19db. I'm using a 3sixty.2 and the slopes i have are 12 and 24db and powering the components with a T400-4, any recommendations are appreciated.

I emailed Rockford about this a while ago, I was told the only difference was an added phase plug to help with power handling, and the tweeter has an aluminum dome on the T2's. I have the T1's and i like them, I will say that i found the tweeter from the 05 T1's to be much nicer.

I have a Q 10 in a ported that I'm putting 1000 watts to and it's plenty loud. but then again i consider myself to be more of an sq guy.

I think it's due to the high motor force. be sure to get the high QTS option for sealed.