troublemaker

Yup yup and mines one of them! Woop Cant wait 2011 will be a great year for Sundown Audio and Matrix Audio here in the UK, i can tell!!!

No, the FASTER it produces it.......i.e a 10hz tone causes the amp to swing 1000 watts 10 times a second, at 100hz it has to swing that power 100 times a second, using 10 times the power over the sime time period.

And well, i will let the following photo say it all...... The car has 2 x Sundown 4500d's Strapped at 0.35 - 0.175 per amp Measured output across the pair 105.3 volts 121.2 amps = 12,762 watts output - or in laymans terms "a ****load" Battery was dropping to 10.5 volts as well! I do not condont this sort of abuse - one of the amps was going into protect which is something i need to investigate further, however whichever way you look at it - 6.3K from a 4.5k amp with no engine charging the battery (StreetMax) is pretty awesome going. I feel i must also give some of the credit to the DC LV 4XL SPL motored subs, as they seem to be standing up to the abuse very well so far!!!

Well, i am glad you are confident, but lets look at this for a second. 1 - I am running 2 amps. I am allowed 4 amps in my class. 2 - The 2010 seat rules have hit panda's badly - walled especially as the seats are now in front of the wall - average loss 0.7db. This was my measured loss also. So thats a 162 off 2 amps.......and theres more work to come on the cabin etc. Lots and lots more testing needed also. Personally while i appreciate that a panda is a good start, considering the box in this car is made entirely of 2 x 1 box section steel welded together, it wouldnt be an easy build to replicate.

These are the results we got from my testing today at Modified Nationals in the UK - the first 2010 db drag event in the UK. Single SAZ-4500d amp 0.35 DCR. All results true RMS. Deck Volume started 12 - went to 41 of 47 - still clean sine at this point. 77.9 AC Volts 57.2 AC Amps 13.2 battery volts before starting 11.50min voltage over burp. 77.9 * 57.2 = 4455 watts RMS @ 1.36 ohms impedance. Subs were 2 x DC Audio 4XL SPL Motor 18's D1.4 coils all in parrallel. 158.3 db achived at 66hz!!! Well impressed with the amps - need to try some D1.0 recones now to see what difference we get loading the amp down more.

Hi Dude - The port is on the drivers side - this car is right hand drive, not left hand drive as i am in England, home of the Queen, cream teas and biscuits :D So its just a mirror image of a USA db drag car wall

So this weekend we have been mostly sanding, painting and getting headaches from the fumes. Having decided that our first priorities should be to do a bit of work inside the Marbella's enclosure, we spent most of Sat afternoon and sunday morning getting the exsisting paint sanded down - using 60/80 grit first and then after primering going up to 320 grit. Then we laid on 2 coats of Ford Radiant Red, which is as you would expect both Radiant, and quite red! We chose this to match the dustcaps on the DC subs as closely as possible. There is now going to be some final flatting and polishing after the 2 coats are on and then a decision will be made as to whether a third coat is needed. Next thing to do of course is to give it a burp and see whether its made us any louder or not!! Cheers to Craig who pulled in a favour to get this in his workshop as its not something we could have done outside for obvious reasons.

OK did some more testing today, as the 2010 seat ruling has changed, which does have direct effect on a Panda's SPL. We are now at 157.6 every time, but we also achived a 157.9 in testing last night, although i think the seats wouldnt pass the new rule. At the end of the day, this is still single amp testing, Jacob knows what i bought and it wasnt a single amp lol! - however my rule is get your benchmark score - then do what you can to get the box mods, then add the power. As its possible i am going to end up shredding woofers because of the loading on the seats, i am not going to be full power running until i have a spare set available to me.

What were your actual volt and clampmeter figures - i was going to DROP the load from 0.35DCR to 0.25DCR to get it nearer 1ohm after box rise not raise it nearer 2 ohms !! It does surprise me that it would do more power at higher impedance.

A couple.....

No pics yet - will get some. it is in a wall though made of steel lol

c'mon hurry hurry hurry with these Jacob, i only have 2 weeks before the show hahahaha!!!!

sounds like a slightly loose dustcap. have you only just got it? i had one with a similar issue recently?

Hi Amir - Dave here! As far as power supply goes, as long as you have a voltmeter or some way of checking voltage, then you will be OK. Basically the long and the short of it is the batteries will supply the extra current the amp needs, then the alternator will take longer to recharge them, yes a larger alternator will help lots, but as long as you keep voltage above say 12.6 you should be ok with the amp - plus a large class D running clean will use less power than a smaller one at 99% output! Hope this helps dude!

the issue is that the amplifier which cost $400 from Booyunwaanhunglo San is going to be $650 when George makes it. if not more. because every COMPONENT that George uses comes from korea or china anyway. and the best amps are normally those that are machine made for better reliability. i was the US Amps rep before they went crap/sold out/went overseas/were bought out* (*delete as appropriate) but the real truth is if they hadn't been bought out then they wouldnt be here. period. i met a good friend there in Greg (usampfreak) and a great engineer in Dirk, plus an enigmatic man with serious issues in Jack. Yes i loved their amps, the TU600 is still one of my all time favorite amps. The DE amps were (and IMO still are) flawed - the early ones are the only ones though that are true to the DE concept.........i digress. Are those amps that much better than sundowns? thats hard to say. I think that US amps designs are awesome, however i have to ask what have they done since about 2000-2001 thats really groundbreaking? MLT is clever, but i see little application for it as the amps its on cost so much. People dont want big class a/b amps anymore when they can have class D's for half the cost. And if its class D who cares about the finer points of SQ so meh to the best quality amp anyhow. So i think they have somewhat lost their lead now. Shame, but a fact of life. I would imagine that a sundown is close if not equal to a us amps in SQ, i certainly think they have a different sound - the Sundown warmer the US Amps more open (tube or transistor) - the us amps tend to sound a bit more ballsy (this is all regards a SQ side on the class a/b's by the way) but it is personal preference. i LIKE the fact that Sundown says "yeah these come from Zenon" and dont try to lie about the amps to us (although in this modern age, people would know anyway), i love the crossover designs, and i love the service. Therefore i think we should appreciate the good points such as those, but also celebrate the korean RELIABILITY and GOOD DESIGN that Zenon do, and understand that ALL consumer electronics is made in the far east, consider the Sony "made in japan" of 30 years ago - korea is the new japan. and this is some of the best of the best! Enjoy :D

THAT would SO porno x2 on a high end sundown SQ amp As a distro do i get another vote to make it x3? ;)

Oh no they arent!!!!! Whatever TRU Tech MAY tell you, i beg to differ - they are made by Akaya corp in Korea. or en.abyss.co.kr For what its worth, i think the Zenon products are about as good as you can get for the monoblocks and "regular" amps - i would love to see a Akaya/Abyss made high end SQ sundown, with jacobs fantastic crossover design implemented - and a tube or the like. Would be fantastic.

As has already been mentioned, i would like to clarify this. Putting multiple devices onto a RCA output will not "halve" the voltage, or even divide it by the number of devices on the end of it. As long as we have a lower input impedance across all of the devices than the output is rated at you will be fine. For example, i run a Pioneer P88RSII head unit. This is the same unit effectively as the Premier P800PRS. This has a rated output of 5.0v RMS @ 100 ohms. As long as the connected devices to this are at less than this impedance TOTALLY then there will be negligable loss of the signal. For example lets take a Rockford Fosgate Power 250.2 amplifier (circa 1997), as I cannot find specs for Zenon made amps anywhere (i am assuming 10kohm but as i dont know i am taking a spec i can find!) The spec on this amp is 20,000 ohms input impedance. In this circuit there will be a 0.04db drop in signal. If you put 10 of these amplifiers all together, via y leads, you would have a 2,000 ohms imput impedance. This would give you a total signal drop of -0.42dB which is a drop, but still not a huge one. The general rule of thumb is "keep input impedance 10 times stated output impedance and you will be fine" This is also why in general use, a line driver is not needed on a modern amplifier - they already have high input impedances, and the decks already have low output impedances - basically if you disconnect your RCA's and turn your gains up and the amp is silent then its not an issue running off the deck as theres no noise on the amp gain circuit (preamp/op amps).

Well, work started today on an install into the BMW. This is going to be a DC Audio/Sundown Audio demonstrator over here in the UK. The main thrust of todays work was to get the steel frame into position in the rear of the car, ready for the main woodwork to start going in tomorrow We have now got 5 runs of speaker cable down each side of the car, 2 0AWG ground, 2 x 0AWG power running down to the original chassis ground point and battery terminal. (the car has 1 x 0AWG run down from Alt to Battery as standard, may upgrade this if we fit a bigger alternator to it - 140 in there at the moment!), and 3 x RCA's going to the front.

cheers for the kind words - the demo car is already being planned, lots of Sundown Audio power with DC audio woofers !!!!!

Hi Guys. I am very, very happy to announce that I have been appointed the UK distributor of Sundown Audio. I am currently the distributor for DC Audio subwoofers and Xscorpion wiring, so we are well positioned to make some of the coolest bass wagons in the UK! Spread the word! Dave www.directice.co.uk Direct ICE, + 44 (0) 7703 048 599 thetroublemaker@btinternet.com

As it says guys, DC Audio is coming to the UK soon. I will be on here talking to you guys as much as possible to get really "up close and personal" with the product and i am looking forward to some good times with the kit over here in europe. Ta Dave

Old AX all good. Several fails with DE series amps. Both my Double D's died and have been months with US Amps not repairing them. Merlins had a 40% fail rate on first batch this is sorted now but i was never sent the details on the promised mods. First batch IS problems with crossover notch distortion. Again sorted i think. Low quality endcaps.

the problem with the butler is the early ones you could take the tubes out of the circuit completely, and the later ones - well have YOU seen the boards? IMHO they are a state.

that is correct. HOWEVER what that means (and you can ask Coleman/JR/Dirk/Mr Kim this) is that they buy the boards and sinks in Korea and assemble them by putting on the hand wound toroids and psu/output devices at the factory. This way it qualifiys for MADE in the usa as the final product was MADE in the usa from imported components. This is in no way a bad thing - the Korean amp houses make some of the best amps there are, and you get a product at a more sensible price. Whether it is the US Amps that got me hooked on the brand is a different thing.