sittdogg

Most I'll ever go is 2k rms. have 1k rms now. But my gtp has 125amp alt stock.

Hi guys, out of the 18 years and over 10 systems I have only had a ported box once. Well I have decided to give it a try and am going to build my own ported enclosure. I can say there are a few things iI need to know. I am building an enclosure for a 15" sub for the trunk of a 2001 pontiac grand prix gtp, so height can't be over 16". I want the enclosure to work for my current sub but be able to put the subwoofer im going to buy later in it. I plan to buy either a DD 2515, DC level 3 or 4, or SSA xcon. For now i have an Alpine mrd-m1005 amp. I am going to get a bigger amp later as well because i like to over power subs a bit so i can get loud for local drags and so I coan keep gains down to avoid clipping. One big thing is I am unsure on what frequency to tune to. I want it to be loud but sound good. I know in the 30's is good for listening but not sure on specifics. I listen to a variety of music from rap to rock and metal. For starters i need to know if the port volume is included in the box volume. The box needs to be about 3.5 cubic feet.

Wow That is a nice subwoofer on the Ethos!! 1800 watts RMS triple stack magnet monster for less then $300. I'm impressed and that is my cup of tea to have a quality sub at a decent price! Does it perform as well as it look. I'm guessing so or you guys prob wouldn't be recommending it. My eventual goal is to have a system that I can compete with once in awhile but have an excellent sounding system too. I alway have tuned my systems to sound well. I'm not one of those mud listeners...lol To bad I'm so low on money at the moment. I will be starting a new career in a couple weeks, just waiting on my license. will def be able to afford that and the amp to run in in a month or so. To bad because it's on sale!!!

So i will go within that range then maybe right in the middle at 33hz, or what might make the ports easiest. Ya, I always had a thing for Alpine, but not so much for the newer stuff. I've had this amp for 4 years now. BUt either I buy anotherone used on ebay or get a different amp when I go to upgrade. Thank you for the video link. I like to have something to reflect on and go back to. WIll def be checking it out once I settle in for the night. I second the Ethos recommendation, but don't wait, if you pre-order now you can get it a little cheaper AND DSS has a layaway option. I've never heard of Ethos. I will look it up. I'm surprised I haven't I'm constantly looking at audio equipment. sounds like a Hifonics-type name.

It's in the box that was made for alpines exact sealed recommendation. Its .75 cubic feet of airspace less then what is recommended by audiopipe hits hard and sounds great; no distortion at high volumn with 1000rms going to it and seems like it can handle more. I am completely inexperienced with what hz to tune to. what is a good hz to tune to? would like it to sound good. Is it possible to have a ported box sound good for rap and rock? I'm highly thinking of going with ports so I can change the frequency if I want to. TC300 how much airspace do you have running in your GP, its pretty limited because of the height.

Ive done this to a couple cars over the years. I bought 4ga stuff to do it on my Grand prix gtp, when i went to do it it looks like the 2 grounds are already 4gauge or close to it. The alt wire looks like 8 ga though. Is it even worth it to do this with the 4 gauge or should i get 2/0. Bought it all on ebay and didn't look first like a dumbass.

I've been quite surprised by it actually. Was going to leave that out because of how many people trash them. Its an Audiopipe txxapa15 dual 4 ohm 3" vc, 1000 rms. First low grade sub I've owned but now that I've owned it I wouldn't necessarily call it low grade. It out performs the Alpine type r 15, Soundstream tarantula 1000 watt rms, and Fosgate power punch dvc all of which ive owned. Paid 100 bucks for it slightly used. Said F it I'll try it out.

Hey guys. I finally blew my alpine type R 15 after 4 years. Had my alpine mrd m1005 running to it in a sealed enclosure. It was loud and got 141.4 db at a local comp I did just for fun to see how loud I could get. Time for a new 15 to replace it. I'm wondering if anyone knows a good 15" that compares to the type r or better that will run off that 1000 rms nicely. Many of the subs I like seem to be made for ported enclosures. I'm not against ported box but can't afford to have one built right now and I always liked the sound quality from my sealed. I want to go for a ported box in the near future but want a well built one with low port noise and tuned. Does anyone have suggestions for a sub that will run on a sealed enclosure for now nicely but even better in a ported later? I thought about a DD 2500, or American bass TNT or XFL, but it looks like neither do well in a sealed box. I been out of the car audio loop of whats good, so any help is appreciated.

No one knows a 15" 1000 rms sub that performs well in sealed enclosure? Re audio, I've seen. Seems like a lot of manufactures don't always have the enclosure data.

I went and bought a 15" Rockford fosgate punch he2 sub for $70 to get me by for some bass until I get a nice sub, this thing is crap. Half the volume of the Alpine and can't handle my amp with the gain only up half way...lol. I'm thinking I may need to wait on the ssa sub. I'm in school and only working part time. If I get it ill have to do a diff box too. Anyone know of a decent 1000 rms sub that will perform well in a sealed 1.75 cf box for around $250.

My car is a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. Box has to be, B x W x H, 16-18" x 34"x 15 1/2". The height restriction of the enclosure has been an issue with having a 15" in this car. Part of why I haven't gone ported as of yet. The stock amp for the Bose might be able to be relocated to make another inch of height. But I'm so busy with school and work it seems like a pain in the ass.

The sub blew from 4 years of hard thumping. I bumped it hard often. I adjusted my gain to where there was little distortion or cone noise when at my highest playing volume.it was in a sealed 1.75' obcon 1" mdf enclosure. I do want a combo of sound quality and spl. More like sound quality with the ability to get pretty damn loud. I'm a bass junkie and have had a decent stereo in my car for 16 years now. How do the SSA subs compare to other stuff on the market? I don't know much about them, from what I've read they are well built in the USA which is appealing. Better built and performance then an alpine type R? I once had a jbl wgti in a sealed box with 1100 rms at 3 ohms. Hit 143 db with that. Loved it but got rid of it.

I'm usually good at working with wood but never built an enclosure. A sealed would be no prob but a ported seems like a job that can go wrong. I was looking at some of the ssa subs. The gcon looks good to me. Could it handle 1000 rms daily? The alpine did for 4 years and it only had 2.5 inch VC's. the icon seems like 1000rms might not be enough maybe.

I did 2 of the big three on my car, the alt. to battery wire and the battery to body ground, both with 4ga wire. I didn't replace the battery to engine ground because the stock wire looks 4ga already. It seems now like there's either no effect or even worse voltage drop and dimming than before. Any input on what may be wrong. Do I need to shorten the wires more there is a few inches of slack, or maybe replace the stock 4ga wire any I did the right wires right?

Sorry for the late replies, I had some family emergencies happen this last couple weeks. I will go ahead and change the engine ground, It's probably not a 4ga just looks likt it. I think it's like one guy here already said, I think it seems a bit louder then before, I think the amp is just sucking more juice. I will eventually update my profile and change my pics. Now for some upgrades like a cap or batcap, trunk modifications, and possibly custom ported box. I may even a year from now add another 1000 watt rms alpine amp for SPL comp only, then a 140 amp alt.

Yes, I scraped the contact points to the metal. There is not overly to much slack, but easily 5-8 inches xtra. I have a 95 pontiac bonneville sse. The amp I am running is an Alpine mrd-m1005 running 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohm to an Alpine 15" type R r1542d, in obcon sealed box(1in. MDF). The fuse to the amp is a 80 amp. I believe the alternator is either a 105 amp or a 125. The guy that sold me the car said he installed a 125 amp right before he sold it to me, but I'm not sure it the truth. I am eventually going to install a 140 amp alt. and a battcap. Not to mention eventually an amp for my highs and much more cusomizing and fabrication.

I'm having a small problem with my system. I can really use some feedback from you guys. I have 2 soundstream eg-15's(400 rms ea.) hooked up to my SS tarantula tr880/2 (880 rms). everything is great ,they hit hard, but when I turn up the gain and volume for higher spl the amp will shut off. but only on certain hard hitting songs. I'm pretty sure the amp can handle these volumes, being an old school tarantula. I'm thinking it may be the voltage drop it causes at these volumes. But the voltage drop doesn't seem to bad going by the headlights. I do only have a stock alt., and I haven't done the big 3. I'm wondering if voltage drop would cause the amp protection to turn off. any other ideas on what could be the problem would be helpful too. Thanks

Great replies and fast guys, thanks. I'm going to do the big 3 soon as possible. see if it solves the problem. Need to get a wireing diagram at an auto parts store, I don't want to do the wrong wires. I need to fix the problem before I can compete in some local competitions. I hope the amps not clipping. That would mean my amp can't handle the volume I want, and my system probably wouldn't be very competable at a comp. I paid $10 for a reading and hit 138.4 at volume where it doesn't shut off. I want at least 140. The amp almost never gets hot. and it always turns on as soon as I turn it down. I have it hooked up @4 ohm's mono now, it wouldn't handle 2ohm. I was surprised that the tarantula wasn't stable under 4 ohm mono.

whats up, I've had 6 systems in 4 cars, 2 of my cars were hatchback. I had 1 sedan with a sub in the trunk for a year and a half, at that time I was'nt trying to make my system louder, now in my present car I'm on my second system and I want to get louder. but the system is in the trunk. I know no matter what I do it wont be as loud as in a hatchback. Is it possible to make a spl vehicle in a sedan. Are spl numbers as high as 150 achieveable in a trunk? My system is fairly loud now,I hit 137.8 at a local shop with my old system. but that was with 880 watts rms to a 15. I was'nt to impressed cause some guys were hitting 5-10 db more, with nearly the same wattage. I have alot of work to do cause I want to hit in the 140's. does anyone have spl systems in a sedan, let me know what you hit. Thanks

I've been having a small problem with my in-line fuse. at first I had a 80 amp tube fuse in a fuse holder, under the hood. One day my subwoofer stopped working, so I pulled over to see what was wrong. My fuse holder was melted with the fuse inside. So I bought a new fuse holder and put a 40 amp tube fuse in it. Then 2 days later after playing my system loud for 10-15 min. I blew another fuse. I never had this problem before. I have noticed that at times the inside of the fuse will be glowing hot. Is this normal for a fuse to glow? Anyway if anyone can tell me what can be going wrong here, let me know. I have a soundstream Tarantula TR880/2, with 4GA wire hooked up. Ibeleive the amp draw for it was 80. I have an 80 amp stock alternator. I'm getting ready to do the big three under the hood soon to help with voltage drop.

I have checked the power wire for cracks. but maybe I need to get under the carpet to look for wire exposure. Is it possible for an amp to develope internal problems. I may check my ground wire too, but I doubt it the ground.

Thanks for all the info. I already have a optima battery, and I know my alt. is very small for the type of system I have. So I will go ahead and get bigger groung wire under the hood. I may even go 1 ga. I need to start saving for that 160 amp alt. then I may even be able to add a second soundstream tarantula tr880/2. That would be well down the line though What is a capacitor for anyway? I know its like a battery that can feed high amounts of current when needed. But is it even useful if you have a H.O. alternator? would having a 20 fared cap benefit my system? Thanks for your responses

I will be needing to purchase either a 160 amp alt. or a 8-20 fared cap. eventually both. I have a voltage drop problem. My current alternator is only 80 amps. my amp , I think has 4 20 amp fuses, its a soundstream tr880/2. My headlights dim quite a bit. Would a 8 or 20 fared cap fix the problem well enough to forget an alternator. I can get a 20 fared soundstream cap on ebay for $169 new, $129 for the 8. Or should I go with the 160 amp alt. Which would be more effective. Most people I've seen have only a 1.5, 2, or the biggest I've seen in a car was a 4 fared. What do you know or think? This guy at a audio shop told me that if I were to replace all the major ground wires under the hood, with the same guage my amp runs on (4 ga.), that it would fix most of the voltage dropping. I have'nt tried it yet cause I thought I'd get some feedback here about it first, since not every salesman knows what he's talking about. Thanks