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fearlessgangsta

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Posts posted by fearlessgangsta

  3. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    Your alternator is factory?

    Yes sir PCM controlled?

    It only reads that high for a min or 2

    Ok so triple checked my stinger meter with my DMM stinger was off .2 to high so I adjusted it. Drove the truck around the block and still saw 15.3 volts then settled to 13.9-14.0.

    After the drive I double checked with DMM with the truck still running and they are dead on.

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  6. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    Well, that guy is retarded because 14v batts need over 16.0v for proper operation.

    Also, i'm curious about your vehicle charging so high in general..

    Does it only do it at first start or does it also jump over 15.0v under load?

    I'd be curious to know because if it likes to jump over 15v during play, it can cause longterm damage to AGM batteries when large current is tied together with that voltage.

    Yeah. I know he was some random guy at the shop that day.

    When I start the truck it stays at 15.1-15.2 then put it in drive it goes up to 15.4-15.5 then comes down to 14.4 or 13.8 or so. It doesn't happen underload and I'm scared about it even charging at 15.4 at start up. I'm trying to save money to get a dual alt setup so I can charge at 14.9 at all times with no worries about my stock alt voltage.

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  7. Posted

    That is pretty crazy if 15.4v is putting it into protection. It sounded like a speaker wire may have been shorting to the basket or another wire or something, but with everything unplugged, I guess that can't be a reason. I would think most amplifiers would not have any problem if the alternator voltage jumps to 15.4. My PCM controlled truck all the time while playing my system loud and have never once had either amp go into protect. Interested to see what CA says if he sends it back....

    Me too my friend. I remember the first time I gave a demo. The guy saw my voltage at 15.2 at start up and was like "is this a 14volt truck" lol

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  9. Posted

    Pick the one that fits your budget the best.

    4.75ft^3 will be on the large side for 1 Sundown Zv.3 15" on that amplifier. But if you keep the gains and volume knob in check you will be ok.

    Either way you won't be dissapointed in either sub woofer as they are both hand built in the USA and come from 2 great companies!

    The z3 is built in the USA? Not China?

    Z v.3 is China

    NS is U.S

    Zcon U.S

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  10. Posted

    I was in the same spot not that long ago. I got the Z's because shipping cost of the Zcon. Also the fact that the Z 18 has that sexy high rolled surround, but that's me. I like my Z's, but if I had the money it would be Zcons. Just because I like to play a lot of types of music like blues and zydeco when my dad is in the car. The Z's can handle it, but I think the Zcon would excel in this field being they are more musicly based.

    If I'm not mistaken the z v3 is sundowns sq ish sub? If it doesn't sound musical then the problem is your enclosure/install.

    It sounds great. I thought the Zcon was build to be purely musical, so i thought it might handle better. My bad if it came out wrong

    The zcon is geared more toward spl. This is not at all saying it can't sound good.

    My misunderstanding. Thanks Ricksi

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  11. Posted

    I was in the same spot not that long ago. I got the Z's because shipping cost of the Zcon. Also the fact that the Z 18 has that sexy high rolled surround, but that's me. I like my Z's, but if I had the money it would be Zcons. Just because I like to play a lot of types of music like blues and zydeco when my dad is in the car. The Z's can handle it, but I think the Zcon would excel in this field being they are more musicly based.

    If I'm not mistaken the z v3 is sundowns sq ish sub? If it doesn't sound musical then the problem is your enclosure/install.

    It sounds great. I thought the Zcon was build to be purely musical, so i thought it might handle better. My bad if it came out wrong

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  12. Posted

    I was in the same spot not that long ago. I got the Z's because shipping cost of the Zcon. Also the fact that the Z 18 has that sexy high rolled surround, but that's me. I like my Z's, but if I had the money it would be Zcons. Just because I like to play a lot of types of music like blues and zydeco when my dad is in the car. The Z's can handle it, but I think the Zcon would excel in this field being they are more musicly based.

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  13. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    Just looking over the manual.

    The BC2000D can safely accept DC voltage up to 18v.

    It's making me wonder, if it were voltage related, if Tirefryr is right in that the buildhouse may have accidentally put a safety protect threshold set for 12v amps instead of 18v amps...

    12v amps can go in protect between 15.5-16.0v.

    I would honestly just contact CA and see if they can get you a fixreplacement.

    You'll be out $~20 in shipping but at least you should get a full working amp back.

    Shipping is not a problem for a working amp. I left 2 messages and made a thread on C**O since it seems Crescendo and Jon are still more active over there. I will call tommorow as I think they are closed weekends.

    Also Shizzz your right it is 18v in my manual. I thought it was 16.8

    ff41684d.jpg

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  14. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    What alternator are you running?

    Stock PCM controlled. When I start the truck it sits at 15.0-15.1 then when I put it in drive it slowly goes up to 15.4-15.5 for about a min then settles down to 13.8-14.4. Sometimes when I'm on the freeway it can sit at 12.8. That's just how the PCM works on these GM's.

    Also I think the 2k are supposed to work on 16.8 volts? I'm a ways from that even at start up.

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  17. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    You paid a professional to install this and it isn't correct, so they should be doing the troubleshooting for you. I'm still betting on a faulting OV circuit.

    They did two whole days of troubleshooting. They think it's the amp too, but the only amp they had was a D9 and I didn't want to mess it up and then have to pay for it because it's his personal amp.

    When I'm charging at 12.8 to 14.9 amp is fine and I can beat the shit out of it.

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  19. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    just for kicks, remove some things that benefit maintaining voltage in the rear to get your voltage down some and see if it helps.

    If you need help doing that, hehe.. there are many things to create resistance.

    But, isn't that just a bandage to a bigger problem? I know once my car warms up it settles to 14.4 or sometimes 12.8 while driving(thanks GM). The amp plays fine at any volume them. I know cause I was banging coming from work. Voltage at 13.8-14.0. Drive from work is about 25-30min. Also I have my amp on a switch so I remote started the vehicle and then when I got to the car I turned on the amp. Voltage was 14.7-14.9 when I turned it on after leaving work.

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  20. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    where is your stinger meter measuring voltage at?

    If it's not directly at the amp.. then measure at the amp what dc voltage is.

    If it comes to be the amp doesn't like 15.1v+, there are ways to positively incorporate safe shitty wiring methods :)

    At the amp sir. The stingers positive is connect right to my amp power. I just double checked that the stinger is deadon with my DMM while the vehicle is running.

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  21. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    It shouldn't be though. I believe the bc series is stable up to 18 volts but anything over is protect.

    Mine charges at 15.1 at times and the only protect ive had was full tilt burp at .25

    I believe the 2k is 16.8, but mine is a first run and may have a bad protection circuit or something. My DMM reads 1Ohm at the speaker terminals, and like I said before if my voltage goes down to 14.9 or below it plays. I know I can't lose anymore sleep over this though.

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  23. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    drain batts?

    I'm suggesting unplug rcas and speaker wire.

    With amp on, it will only draw idle current, which is typically less than 3A. With vehicle on, that's nothing.

    With vehicle on, Ok

    Oh you said overnight I was like What? :)

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  24. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    ok, this is no good!

    unplug all speaker wires from amp and let it come on and see if it ever protects.

    this means no rcas and no speaker wires.

    I would suggest letting it rest overnight(in case thermal problem is an issue too) if it still protects after doing this.

    Wouldn't that drain the shit out my batts. I could try it on the way to work tommorow. I know speakers read 1Ohm. Also when it protects it's cool to the touch because I had my cousin in the back seat and he said it was "cold as ice" when it protected the other day. Also everytime I seen it protect it has been cold being that I had to pull over to feel it so it may have cooled down in 30secs

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  25. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    i'm assuming you have no bench tester power supply available?

    We can only narrow down to a certain extent until it looks like you are going to have to start borrowingpurchasing things to test with further assuming this cannot be sent off for warranty service inspection just yet.

    different RCA cable

    different amp

    different headunit

    I believe we are down to these 3 things right now.

    Ok Shizzz not a mile(about 1min 30sec) from my house RCA's unplugged amp protected. Voltage 15.4. I pulled over and restarted and amp protected after 30sec.Voltage 15.3 . I also have a vid,but I have to go to my friends house to upload.

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