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fearlessgangsta

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Posts posted by fearlessgangsta

  7. Posted

    My guess would be something like 24awg

    But if he wants it to fit directly into his amp without any shaving or any reducers, which he appears to want, then I'm all for helping him out.

    Personally, I would have taken the free wire and just shaved it down...

    I don't want to do any shaving mainly because I don't know how. Like you said I just want something that fits in the amp.

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  9. Posted

    Which subs?

    I think you mean what amp? I don't think I've used anything other than 12ga. Whether at 3000 watts or 1000.

    My friend found a guy that bought the 8 gauge from him. He asked me and i told him sell it because It might not work for me. So I'm thinking of going 10 or 12 gauge. The inputs on my amp look tiny. If I get 12 gauge I could do double runs it I can get them to fit. I'm not worried about the subs fitting just the amp.

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  12. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    That's what the dual 8 gauge inputs are for... Plug the dual 8ga. inputs into the speaker terminals, not the amp

    So your saying plug the metal block into the amp or ? Mybad if I don't get it I'm reading fast as I'm on my way to class. I posted on his page I'm just waiting for a response. Do you remember what they cost?

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  14. Posted

    And thats what i get for posting late at night. I didnt read it too well. But it could have been done that way. One pair of wires coming off the negative side from the terminal, one goes to the positive on one VC of each sub and the other goes to the negative to the other VC of each sub. Then just connect the left over positive and negative. I was trying to avoid using another terminal by just stack ring terminals at the cup, your right i was thinking parallel not realizing what i was reading at all.

    Are you saying stack the 8 gauge at the speaker terminal? Idk if the 2 runs of 8 gauge would fit in one terminal. I'll take a pic of the sundown terminals

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  17. Posted

    2) New Sundown baskets in 10/12/15 sizes. I can't show off the renderings yet until my ornamental patent application is in... but think at LEAST as much clearance as the "Eclipse" baskets AND even stronger. 18s will definitely not make it for 2012... but are on the road-map for 2013. This will allow me to make the NS v.3 in 12s for music applications. These will be used on everything larger than the SA line.

    ** -- With the baskets come all new spiders' date=' cones, and surrounds. Some pretty sick stuff... you guys will like it.[/quote']

    On this subject... I forgot to add that I am designing / tooling an adapter for the 18" 6-spoke to tide me over until our 18" tooling is done that will support the same spider size as our new 15" frame (257mm).

    So we can start making even high excursion 18s this year as well :D

    I just got m Z's :(

    Now I have a new sub to get :)

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  20. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    Welcome bro and you can make a thread in the fabrication section. The name of this thread isn't really going to get people coming to help with your system. That will get you a bunch more help

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  23. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    On the left side of the engine is the engine ground. You can see it running off the battery then it runs through this thing then is grounded to the motor.

    78cfa249.jpg

    This off another guys truck off SMD(I know)

    That thin wire on top of the 0 gauge is the headlight ground that goes somewhere on the firewall. The 0 gauge is covering the other wire that is a little thicker then the headlight cable. The thicker wire that you can't see will be the stock engine ground

    On now if you find this thing(it should be to the right of the battery just look and you should find it. If you do it currently has to grounds running through it one wire will be thicker then the other. The thicker wire will be the ground from the battery going to the engine block and you would be able to see it. The skinner wire will be the ground for the headlights. Basically the ground current is measured by the clamp and it tells the electrical system what to do.

    So what you is just run 0 gauge through the clamp from the negative of the batt and ground it to the engine block with the one that is already there. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow and type a description with pics.

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  24. Posted

    Just for my bc2000 I'm doing big 3 and remember to ground through the electronic ground clamp to help the alt see the draw. I'm ordering a xs3400 as a secondary batt. I'm doing one run of positive and negative in 0 gauge to back where the amp is from the 3400.

    Now when I'm completely finished with that.

    I'm saving up for a dual bracket and mike singer alt then running my system completely separate from my stock charging system. Then I will be done with my electrical.

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  25. Posted · Edited by Fearz

    Even if you get a HO alt it will still do the floating voltage thing when your driving. The only way I know to stop that is with a MLA module, and then you have to splice into the PCM control to get it to constantly charge at 14.9

    That's why you see so many people running dual and triple brackets on these new model trucks.

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