ShagggDiesel

I hope you're not running it at full gain..

We can't answer this for you. The only way you can get an answer is to try it yourself.

I got the black plastic ones that have the spin ring. They seem pretty sturdy.. I'll probably be using washers with my screws to keep the screws from biting through the plastic. Also, what would be best to glue the flange inside the pipe? PVC glue? I have some Gorilla glue, but I was told that it wouldn't work for this situation..

It didn't effect the tuning or have any massive port noise? I'll be putting 3 of these in a box.

#1212 The good old SSA Dickies group buy.

Any input before I start on this tonight?

I think that amp is only bridgeable at 4 ohms.. I would either wire the subs in parallel-series for a 4 ohm final load if you're going to bridge it, or wire them each to their own channel @ 2 ohms. Just to be safe.. Just because the amp will work the way you have it, doesn't mean it's safe. Especially if you're going to be playing it at reletively high volume.

I've heard that the Audiopipe 1500 does rated. Around $160.

Magic Link

I was going to say... I was getting that time confused with the time that the fuse holder came unmounted and fell down and melted itself to the chassis. That was fun.

I take that back about the fuse.. It wasn't touching the chassis, rather just had a corroded connection.

Depends. Obviously it's a hazard even if the exposed "gash" isnt touching anything. But, if that gash is exposed to bare metal, there are multiple things that could happen.. Some severe, some just irritating. As you know, there's always a chance of fire. Or, it could just add resistance between the battery and the connection at the amp. I've had this happen before.. The battery up front would read 14.4v, but only 10.2 at the amp. I was so confused.. then come to find out, part of my fuse was exposed and grounding to a piece of the chassis under the hood causing resistance.

It is. Fuses = dream catchers. Use them.

Yes. If they do not melt/burn first.

For those who posted a suggestion: Could you please state why?

Looking at around 35 width, 15 height, and 18 deep for max demensions. I was thinking around 36-38hz. You think 40 would be more optimal for her style of music? She has the occasional rap song.. But nothing that digs deep.

Bump

Try contacting Jacob and ask what it is.

I'm going to be building a small aero ported box for a friend soon, but he doesn't want to spend the extra few dollars to buy real aero's. He wants to go with just straight PVC pipe instead. Yes, I explained port noise and the advantages of having flared ports. Anyway, what's the best way to mount PVC pipe externally on a box? There's no flare to screw into the wood, only a straight pipe to sit inside the cutout. I'm having trouble trying to figure out the most stable and secure way of attaching the PVC. Thoughts?

Awesome, I'll give this a try. Thanks! Np man What subs are going in the box? It's actually for a 6" HT sub (Sony SS-WS74). The box is entirely too large for this driver, but it's what he wanted. .67cft with a 3" external aero port tuned to 33hz. The sub is around 150 watts RMS though, and has a beefy ass motor. I'm curious to see how it sounds. Honestly, I think he should let me make a removable baffle for like a single 8 or 10, and get a PVC connector to adjust the port length and use it for an SPL box.. haha.

Awesome, I'll give this a try. Thanks!

Minimum Port Area Use this. Stefan posted it the other day.. some really useful tools in there.

Do you think Titebond would suffice? Or is there some sort of special expansion that comes from GG?

What about using small L-Brackets and glue? Then caulking the surround?