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ShagggDiesel

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Posts posted by ShagggDiesel

  4. Posted

    Does the faceplate come off of the HU or does it just shut off? If it just comes off, You could get some industrial strength velcro and put a strip on the back of the faceplate, and a strip on the HU to keep it on there possibly. That is if there's a gap big enough for the velcro to fit. I know there would be just enough room in mine. This would save you the risk of damaging your unit from soldering, and keep you from having to use things like tape to hold it on which can look quite ghetto-fab.

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  7. Posted

    BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG magnetizer :)

    700 volts

    12,000 amps of current.

    It will make you see Jesus.

    8,400,000 watts.

    :D

    Make an amp that will power that much!

    Show me a street legal daily driving vehicle with an electrical system to support that. :peepwall::morepower1:

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  8. Posted

    You realize that you're going to get more out of your amp by wiring each of your 4 speakers my wiring them to independent channels right? 125 watts @2 ohms means 125 watts total power for that channel, so if you're running 2 speakers off that one channel @ 2 ohms, each speaker is only seeing roughly 60 watts because the power (125 watts) is being shared between the 2 speakers as opposed to wiring each speaker to a single channel @ 4 ohms getting 75 watts total power. See what I'm saying? If you wire 4 speakers to 2 channels @ 2 ohms each, you'll be getting about 60 watts X4, but if you wire each speaker to it's own channel, you will be getting 75 watts X 4. :) Someone correct me if I've misread something and ranted off-topic..

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  9. Posted

    Or you could plan on 2 15" SSD's. You could buy one 15, try it in the enclosure you have now for the Mojo (that is, if it's volume is around specs for the SSD) and compare it to the Mojo. If you like it, you can order your 2nd SSD and start your new box for the 2 15's :) Less space than the 18's, and I'm sure the output will still be quite a bit more than the single Mojo.

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  10. Posted

    If you need a constant why not just wire to your battery?

    I didn't mean constant, I should probably change that. I meant that the HU won't stay on. I have no switched power source.. Hence the reasoning for wiring to the fuse panel? Which wire should be ran to the fuse panel though? I figured it would obviously be the ignition (red) on the harness on the H/U but that didn't work so idk.

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  13. Posted

    I'm in the process if replacing a factory head unit in a guys 2006 Dodge Charger. I wen't to the local dealer :suicide-santa: to get a wiring harness because it was the only place around that carries the model that I needed. When I asked for it, he told me that the part I needed was $140 however, he would sell me a standard harness that would work for 25, but I would have to run a remote wire to the fuse panel under the hood. He said that the ignition wire would be useless and I would have to do something along the lines of wiring the remote, ignition (red) on the HU, and the remote from the fuse panel all together to get it to work. This had me puzzled, but I tried it anyway.. with no success. I also tried using the ignition wire and wiring the harness to the HU normally like you would to any other vehicle with no success. I can press power on the HU and it will come on and display the time for about 3 seconds and then power off, but that's all. I even tried wiring the constant power and the ignition wire together just to get the HU to power on, and STILL nothing. I checked ALL the fuses in the fuse panel to make sure none were blown. At this point I don't know what else to but to ask you guys for some advice on other routes to take. :ughdunno:

    The HU I'm working with is a JVC KD-R310. Wal Mart material.

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  16. Posted

    Don't base your decision off of videos. Get as much feedback from people with personal experience with these drivers and such. The Fi BTL N2's have not been released yet, this is why you can't find anything on them. However, they are essentially the same thing as the previous generation BTL with the single slug magnet (UFO shaped).

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  17. Posted

    My last post guys. I guess everyone was right. Ill get nowhere talking to you guys.

    You mean your subjective name dropping won't help here. Correct.

    As for "give one example just once where real measurements showed something and were wrong"? That ones easy! TITANIC!(you know the UNSINKABLE SHIP that sank on its maiden voyage?)

    How do you measure unsinkable?

    Considering that was your only response it surely verifies that indeed measurements on drivers are right and you have nothing to refute them. And yep, subjective nonsense won't help. Snake oil is NOT something anyone on here subscribes to.

    QUOTED. lol

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  18. Posted

    One more 2400 should be fine, the problem you will run into is charging three 2400's with a stock alternator.

    This too ^^^ There are some shops that can take your factory alt and beef it up some.. I've seen some go from 70 amp to about 130. Not much but it's better than nothing.

    that is a possibility but i would not recommend it because when they "rewound" the alt. the actual idle is worse than original.

    Really? Hmm.. Well I know not to take that route anymore :P

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  19. Posted

    One more 2400 should be fine, the problem you will run into is charging three 2400's with a stock alternator.

    This too ^^^ There are some shops that can take your factory alt and beef it up some.. I've seen some go from 70 amp to about 130. Not much but it's better than nothing.

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  20. Posted

    The best way to answer this question is to get the amp, run it at your maximum listening levels, check your voltage drops, and add betteries until your satisfied with your voltage. We can't give you a number and have a pre-set fix for you. This is a situation that only you can figure out with your own testing.

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  23. Posted

    Uh that's a very good point... it wasn't completely tight when I went to unscrew it. I thought I had it tight when I last removed it.

    We MAY have found the problem then.. try putting everything back, and tightening down that fuse really good to make sure it doesn't move or come loose, and see how it does. If the problem still occurs, check your grounds like I said before. If all that is good, then we'll try some more troubleshooting. we'll try to work out everything we can before having to send that amp off for nothing.. been there done that.. it sucks having to wait a month and a half to get back a perfectly fine amp and then finding out all that was wrong was a loose bolt on your ground connection.

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