Wackzirth88

I hope it's not set too low, but everything appears to be in good working order. And I didn't run the tone at max volume, i chose 14 for some reason.

it sounded fine, better because it dug deeper on the low notes. i didnt hear any signs of stress at that setting and the sub looked to be playing nice and smooth

i thought it sounded great when i had the ssf set a lil under half way, it didnt look like it was hurting the sub but im not an expert and dont want to ruin my equipment. max listening volume for me is 22-24(pending on the song) out of 35 on my alpine hu

ok i did it, it just seems turned really high. its almost turned 3/4 of the way. how accurate are the numbers that are on the amp? ssf is 15-50 hz on my amp, so wouldnt 1/2 way be 32.5 hz. im just trying to get a better understanding. and how do i know if my lpf is set right?

Oh wait, where should my hu volume be? Max listening volume?

Alright, I understand. I may be over looking it but I didn't find that test tone.

While turning it counter clockwise? Where can I get a 30 hz tone

get the 30 hz tone from here. What's your sub setting on your headunit set to? Try turning that up to get more preout voltage to the amp if it is set low I'm pretty sure fi has the concept of magnetizing their motors down before sending them out so I wouldn't worry about that

I would like to build a ported enclosure for a single 12. I'm ok with building it but I'm not to positive on figuring port displacement and tuning and I figured someone here could probably help. I want the box to be 2 cu ft after port and sub displacement tuned to 32-33 hz, double baffle, sub and port firing at the trunk. I want to have quite a bit of trunk space with the box and amp in there. I measured what space I'd like to utilize and came up with 16-17" tall(preferably 16) x 24-26" wide x 16-17" deep, is that big enough for size box I'm wanting? For anyone curious I plan to run either an icon or a ssd off my sae 1200. I'm going to use one of my Orion xtr pros until then. Also I'm going to build this enclosure out of birch plywood. I was thinking about staining it like a dark cherry or something, open to suggestions. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks fellas

Ive been searching around for a new headunit for while now. I've narrowed it down to either an alpine cda 105 or kenwood kdc-x494. I've had alpine before and never had any issues. Never owned a kenwood hu before and the only complaints I'm seeing are that they are complicated. And only difference I'm seeing between the two is preout voltage and where the usb is. Which one would you guys recommend and why? Open to other suggestions, except pioneer(bad experiences) and I'd like to keep it around $150.

Ive found that kenwood online in multiple places. I was saying that I haven't seen it on display, like in a store.

The kenwood is discontinued so i haven't seen it on display anywhere. The alpine is set up just like my old one so. I can get either kenwood or the alpine offline in the area of 150 bucks. Will the preout voltage make a difference?

The kenwood kdc x794 doesn't look like a bad option either:

I don't know if this has been talked about on here or not, so I apologize in advance if it has. I was doing a little research on what sub(s) I would like to put in my new car. I was thinking about going with a SSD and when I got on the fi site I saw that it says neo ssd's coming soon or something along those lines. I'm pretty interested, so I figured I'd post here to find out more about it. Besides weight, will switching to neo magnets change the ssd's performance much?(if so how?) Do you guys have an idea when it will be available for purchase? And lastly how will the change effect pricing?

Voted!

I recently purchased a 2001 Buick lesabre and want to put a system in it. First things first I need to get a decent head unit in there, tape player isn't gonna cut it lol. But I want to make sure it's done right, I want to keep my steering wheel controls and I was told I'll need something to either bypass the stock amp or integrate it. I've researched it a little but I don't know that I'll get it right still so I came here for help. Is there anyone that has installed a after market headunit in one of these cars? What exactly do I need so that everything will be functional and done correctly?

Anything?

How about the new icon? any ideas on when those will be available?

Db-r is have a 25% off sale on refurbished sundown amps. I saw a 1500d on there for like 240, iirc. Here's the link http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/

Woot woot, I was able to change it myself. I didn't have to take the rack off to get to it, it would pry gave me more area to work with tho. And it only took me a little over 2 hours total. Now the clunk is completely gone and my car doesn't wobble at 50 mph+. I feel like I acheived somethin lol. Thanks again guys

The car is a 1999 ford contour. I've changed almost the entire front end suspension(outer tie rod ends, sway bars, sway linkages, replaced the strut and springs) and now I think my inner tie rod ends are clunking a bit. I'm just wanting some opinions on if I should try to change them myself or pay a shop to do it. I have the chiltons for my car and all the tools I need, but my dad said he's never changed em so he can't give his honest opinion. Main reason I want to do it my self is the knowledge I'll gain and the money I'll save. The parts about 30 bucks each but to have a shop change them it's gonna run about 200+ each side. Wha do yu guys think

Ok I bought an rd sonance last year for my girls car. I didn't install it for 3 4 weeks after recieving it. After maybe a week of playtime it started cutting out and if I pushed on the cone it'd start back up so I figured it was a bad tinsel lead. Then one side of the coil died off completely so I ran it on one coil for awhile and it was fine until we decided to introduce it to a wall socket lol. Now I have a rd super paper weight lol.. Is it worth a recone or should I just sell the motor n basket if possible?

Well thanks for your guys help. I'm going to take it to a couple different shops around town see wat they says wrong. How do I check for bad bushings? My dad doesn't think it's that bad but it's my car and I don't like it clunking.

Yea I know it'll have to be aligned after it's done. And as for the special tool, do places like autozone or oreillys rent the tool out. Just figured they would siince they rent out things like the spring compressors and wat not. I know it's the right inner tie rod because I took it to a shop to see what's clunking and he said I had a bad right inner tie rod and sway link was goin bad also. And I figured it'd be similar to changing the outer but it looks like a bitch to get to and my manual says I have to remove the front subframe and the rack and pinion. Then remove the rack and pinion from the front subframe. That's where I'm a little uncertain. I just don't wanna have to pay 5x the cost of the part if it's something I can do myself.