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Ok guys, due to popular request, here is what I'm thinking of buying for my truck: Head Unit Pioneer DEH-P610BT (link) Three 4v Ouputs 6.5 in Component Speakers Alpine SPR-17S (link) 110w RMS 4 ohm Silk tweeters Sensitivity 87db Speaker Amp JL Audio Slash v2 300/2v2 (link) Class A/B 150w RMS @ 4 ohms 2 channel HP & LP filters THD 0.03% Signal-to-noise 109db Subwoofer JL Audio 12W6v2-D4 (link) 12 inch 4 ohm DVC 600w RMS Sensitivity 86db Will be used in sealed enclosure @ 1.25 ft3 behind driver's seat Subwoofer amp JL Audio G1700 (link) Class D Monoblock 700w RMS @ 2 ohms Bass boost LP Filter THD 1% Signal-to-noise 90db I will also do the BIG 3 upgrade in 0 gauge. Thanks! Edit: By the way, is this an OK power setup for my two amps? 1. (+) Battery to fuse holder (1/0 gauge) 2. fuse holder to distribution block (1/0 gauge input, two 4 gauge output) 3. distribution block to amps Should I add additional fuses after the dist block?

I guess you're right M5. I probably should include more details!!! Ok well these speakers are going into my 2 seater truck and I'm ony planning on installing these pair of speakers to take care of my mids and highs. I have always looked for sound quality and sound stage in my audio equipment, but I also want it to be loud (not competition loud, but loud). Another thing I should mention is that I live in Guatemala City where there is a limited number of car audio brands. Mostly Pioneer, Sony, Memphis, Fusion, Soundstream, db Drive, alpine (just HU), JVC, JBL and for all of these brands, they just bring down the more entry level series. And also there are pretty much no audio experts here what so ever to guide me in my purchases. So I have decide to buy my entire sound system over the Internet, even though this means not being able to hear any of my components previous to purchase, dealing with no warranties and crazy shipping costs! So that's pretty much my story. If you think it would help, I would be glad to post up my entire system design. Thanks for your help!

You guys make a good point. I will most definitely go with option #1 then. Thanks a lot for the input guys!

Well M5, what can I say.....I want to get the best out of those Alpine speakers. I was hoping that with the specs of these two amps the experts here could help me out with which one would make my speakers sound the best. But as some have mentioned, I guess out of these two options, it doesnt really matter! As far as budget goes, I can spend up to $320 on an amp for my speakers. Any suggestions for other amps?

Hey guys! OK, my third post is supposed to be here so here goes. I am about to purchase a pair of Alpine SPR-17S component speakers for my truck. Here are the specs: Power Handling:Peak: 660 watts per set / 330 watts each sideRMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side[*]Impedance: 4 ohms[*]Hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround[*]1" Textile ring-dome tweeter (silk)[*]External crossovers — 12 dB/octave (high -pass) and 6 dB/octave (low-pass) crossover points[*]Frequency response: 65 Hz - 27 kHz[*]Sensitivity: 87 dB The two amps I'm considering are these: JL Audio Slash v2 300/2v2 (link click here) Slash v2 Series 2-Channel Class AB Car AmplifierRMS Power Rating:4 ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan.Bridged, 3 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.[*]Dual N-Channel MOSFET power supply[*]LED power indicators[*]Absolute Symmetry™ Class A/B Circuit[*]Differential-balanced with RCA jack inputs[*]H-Bridge amplifier topology[*]Pulse width modulation-regulated switching power supply[*]2/1 operation[*]Output Polarity Reversal Switch permits instant output polarity reversal[*]Selectable as pass through, tracking LP or tracking HP Preamp RCA outputs[*]Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave)[*]Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave)[*]Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 15 Hz)[*]Frequency response: 5-30000 Hz Rockford Fosgate 600-2 (link click here) Power Series Compact 2-Channel AmplifierRMS Power Output:4 ohms: 200 watts x 2 channels2 ohms: 300 watts x 2 channelsBridged, 4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 channels[*]CEA-2006 compliant[*]Dynamic Thermal Management cooling system[*]Differential Input circuitry eliminates hum[*]Variable high- and low-pass filters (50-500 Hz, 24 dB/octave)[*]Variable bass/treble boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz, 0-12 dB at 12k Hz)[*]Optional remote bass/treble boost[*]Class AB amplifier design[*]MOSFET power and output stages[*]Preamp inputs and outputs Since the speakers are 110w RMS the JL amp powers it at 150w RMS and the RF powers it at 200w RMS (for just $24 more) I'm wondering which one I should go with. Thanks for the help!

Hey guys! Ok, Im about to get two amps for my pickup (JL Audio Slash v2 300/2v2 & JL Audio G1700). I plan on putting them under my seats and both will be powered by 4 gauge cable. My question is this, what scenario would be better (electrically speaking only): 1. I run a 0 gauge from the battery into a distribution block with two 4 gauge outputs to my amps (all fuses will be properly placed). 2. I just run the two 4 gauge cables from my battery directly to the amps (all fuses will be properly placed).

Hey SSA! I've been searching around for a good car audio forum for a while and I think I just found it! I'm new to the car audio world. I've been doing A LOT of research for about 2 months so I'm not completely ignorant on the topic. I live in Guatemala City and here there are not a lot of "experts" in car audio so I have resorted to sites like these to learn. Well, I already have a lot of questions so im gonna post those up and hopefully will be able to help someone on their quest for the perfect system. Cheers!