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Nathan@XSPower

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Posts posted by Nathan@XSPower


  1. If you are running two Group 34 red tops, then I would get them checked. 3600 watts with a 270amp alternator should not be dropping below mid 12V range at the most with the vehicle running. Lets say you are only getting 180amps at idle. That would put you with about a 230amp pull over what your alternator is putting out at idle. 230amps divided between the batteries is only 115amps of pull each battery. This is considering you are getting all of the power out of your amps, and you are not seeing any more than 180amp from the alternator.

    I would check the batteries and all of your wiring. 2 D3400 should work fine with that alt on 3600watts.


  2. ... what specifications are most important when looking for batteries we use in car audio.

    This never got answered, and I've always wondered the same. After making the statement that the AH rating is useless, what should we be looking at to judge the power of a battery?

    Actually it has been answered more times than I care to remember............lol but just not on this forum I guess.

    The ratings you need to look at are not there. Plain and simple. I know that is not what you want to hear, but it is in the truth. There is no one rating that is recognized in the industry that really relates to mobile audio. CCA and CA doesn't relate because it takes the voltage down to low in the testing. AH and RC are low amperage pulls, which doesn't relate.

    There will probably never be a single rating you can look at to determine which battery is the best for mobile audio. So what is there to look for? Performance History, Company History, Battery Make Up, Battery Design, Customer Service, and the company and products track record.

    Sorry it is not easier, but that unfortunately is just the way it is.


  3. AGM compatible (max 14.4V) and around 15amps charge rate. It would be better to charge at 10amps than 25amps though on a single battery. Its better to look for a intellicharger type that will actually go into a float mode and maintain the battery while it is being charged. This way if you had to or wanted to you could leave the battery hooked up to the charger 365 days out of the year and not have to worry about it overcharging the battery.


  4. I wanna know is there any plans for vcm units to be compatible import cars it be nice if that could happen

    This is part of the reason it is taking so long on the new programing for the VCM. Trying to get a few new things to work, but getting those to work with all models takes a lot of engineer work.


  5. I wanna know is there any plans for vcm units to be compatible import cars it be nice if that could happen

    I haven't seen any new news about the VCM's, honestly IMO they are just a band-aid to a problem that could be easily fixed by purchasing a HO alt with an external regulator.

    You can easily lower the life expectancy of your alt with something like a VCM.

    Actually the VCM doesn't put added strain on alternators. It controls the voltage and has nothing to do with the amperage output. Most people buy them to hook up to their HO alt/alts, so they can control the voltage from inside the vehicle and at any time. No need to get out of the vehicle go under the hood and adjust the voltage output.

    Makes it a lot easier to charge at 14.4V regularly, but simply bump up the voltage to 14.9V or what ever you would like for competitions. Also makes it possible to turn your HO 12V alt into a 16V alt by just pushing a few buttons.


  6. That charger is a .8/3.3amp charger. It will take a long time for that charger to charge up a larger size battery (group 51 and up). For instance our D5100 and larger batteries have an optimal amperage charge rate of 15amps. That charger will charge the batteries, but it will take a long time to charge them up fully.

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