shakes

Yeah, but when they're used you can pick them up for less than $200 in some cases. That's a hell of a deal regardless. imo they're decent but they're definitely not cheap on accident.

I read a 25 page thread on CA about Maxxsonics amps some time ago, it was a huge pissing match but a lot of results were posted. Of course I can't find it now. IIRC the 2000.1 made something like 20XX RMS @ 12.5v, don't remember the exact numbers but it squeaked by. I was impressed as hell by the Crunch GP3000D though. Personally I like Maxxsonics, I've owned a few and have always felt I got a good amp for the price. My buddy has been running his Brutus at 1 ohm daily since 2004.

Yeah, I figured that would be the answer I'd get. lol At any rate, I was looking in the Sundown section at the Z15 closeouts, if theres any left that seems like something I'd be interested in. Looks like he only has D2's left so I'd have to get a larger amp and run 2 ohm or strap 2 amps... But I suppose the money I'd save over another brand would even out. If you get a d2 you can run it at 1 or 4 ohms: Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 2 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker I should have clarified, I'm more than likely planning on running 2 woofers.

Last page it said 4 left, then on this page guy said he paid for 4. I'll send an e mail and see what happens.

hey i need a z15 d2 anymore left paypal to where It looks like they're gone. Damn damn damn, I should have thought of this last week.

Yeah, I figured that would be the answer I'd get. lol At any rate, I was looking in the Sundown section at the Z15 closeouts, if theres any left that seems like something I'd be interested in. Looks like he only has D2's left so I'd have to get a larger amp and run 2 ohm or strap 2 amps... But I suppose the money I'd save over another brand would even out.

I'm not really set on 3000 watts, thats just the maximum amount of power I'd want to use. I'm definitely planning on all the supporting electrical upgrades to ensure everything works as it should. Is it realistic to do more than 145db on music with my criteria? I would at least get it metered once just out of curiosity more or less.

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options. Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success. Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right? Why run a speaker below its Fs? And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door. I highly doubt my system will be that elaborate. The last time I actually took the time to install anything in a car I had 4x6's in the doors and 6x9's in the rear deck all powered off my head unit and I was completely satisfied with the sound I got. It wasn't anything special but it was enough for me. So I really don't need anything too crazy to be happy.

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options. Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring In all honesty, I just read that people liked them and I liked the price. Consider me schooled. Do you have any mounting constraints for the mids in the doors? How much power available? I'm hoping I'm handy enough with fiber glass to make some pods for them (or whatever I choose), I haven't really gotten to the serious planning on a whole lot besides the sub stage. I've only just decided to put a system in this truck about a week and a half ago.

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options. Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring In all honesty, I just read that people liked them and I liked the price. Consider me schooled.

That 5.7 350 is plenty for me lol, but the 2500s are nice too! Did yours come with the second battery tray in it? Mine did, and thats where I plan on putting my 2nd battery when I can get it. It's really nice that most of our SUVs came stock with that option. Yeah, I've had a half tons with 350's, but I do a lot of towing and the extra torque is nice, what I really wanted the 3/4 ton for is the bigger brakes, better tranny and tougher suspension. I always thought the half tons weren't designed too great in the towing/hauling aspect. If I had to daily drive the big block I'd go crazy though. It sits most of the winter, I don't think I've driven it since December except to move it to shovel the driveway. I've owned a lot of these trucks. Just bought a 97 Tahoe today actually. Good trucks though, the 350 is such a solid motor and if you go easy on them they're really not that bad on gas.

Appreciate the interest man, what year you got? P.S. Here's an update of whats happened since the last update: Big 3 stuff and voltage meter are coming in Thursday, and last night I got an email from Scott at Fi Audio, it said that my BTL has shipped out today! =) I have a 94, with the ugly interior, but I really wanted a 3/4 ton big block so it was a lot harder to find what I wanted. It gets the job done and I got a great deal on it, one owner and the guy passed away so his family traded it in to a local dealer to get a car. I'm planning to run similar wattage so it will be good to see what electrical upgrades you do and how well it works.

This build is relevant to my interests. I'll be starting on my Suburban once it warms up a little. My buddy owns a generator/alternator shop. I should ask him what kind of money he gets since I plan to upgrade my alternator as well.

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back. What other information should I post to help my case?

I wasn't challenging you on it or saying I was going to buy them. I was just curious because of the buzz about them.

Well I was just saying comparatively. Not that I don't believe or value your input but what is so bad about AQ?

Yeah it's a hard question to ask in a way to really generate answers. My last system 7 or so years ago was 2 RE SE 12's 5.5cuft ported powered by a JBL 1200.1 and I was satisfied with the quality of the sound, my basic goal is to have sound quality like that (which shouldn't be too hard) but be louder, if that makes any sense. I see a lot of Fi Q's for sale very reasonably, what are some opinions on them? I really doubt I'd use 3000 watts, thats just kind of the maximum. As far as electrical upgrades I'd do the big 3 and a good front battery at the minimum. I'm fairly well versed on anything the SSA shop sells (I think). Although the cheap ass in me keeps looking at the cheaper options like Audioque or Mach 5. I read mixed reviews about the Audioque's but the negative opinions I've read don't seem to be based on anything besides someone saying, "those suck because their cheap." Haven't read much about Mach 5 but they're very reasonably priced.

The PI cars (99-04) weren't too shabby, but Ford always seems to underpower everything in comparison to the competition. With a little bit of work and some boost, they can make gobs of power. there are many Lightnings making over 900+ with the stock heads (ported of course), and now the new Trick Flow heads are out, so I'm sure we're going to see some crazy numbers soon. I'm hoping to be above 600RW next summer. I'm going to up the boost and throw some cams in it this year, so I should be above 450. If I was going to sink money into a new edge I'd swap a Cobra motor in and work with that. Personal opinion. I have a buddy with a 99 vert and he makes just over 400rwhp, but he for whatever reason thought it would be fun to put an IRS in it when he only drag races so he never ran faster than 12 teens. I prefer fox bodies personally, mainly because of price and carbs are easier to work with.

An engine will run fine with no back pressure, not saying it's optimal, but they don't NEED it. If your state has emissions testing you'll never pass though. I'm not condoning straight pipes or anything but if you cut your exhaust off it will still run. The computer can compensate for changes. H pipes and X pipes really won't do much except for change the tone and an argument can be made they help with exhaust flow on lower horsepower engines. The difference on the average car would likely be under 10rwhp/tq in most any case, then again there's a lot of variables. If US Cafe standards weren't so strict we'd have 50+mpg diesels all over like Europe. The internal combustion engine has come a long way, but can still be improved upon. I personally think the government should get out of the business of telling companies what and what not to do and requiring average fuel economies and let the market dictate what's produced, but that's a different discussion. What kind of car do you have and what type of racing do you do? Sorry, when I speak, I am always talking about the optimum unless specified. My current car is a 2000 Mustang, but it has yet to be raced, by me at least. I have both drag and road racing experience in the past. Of course, having a child, play time goes by the wayside now. The car will go down the strip this year though, and hopefully I can get on track at IRP and the Tire Rack this year. Cool, I've owned a few Mustangs, not particularly a fan of the 2v 4.6 though, performance wise at least.

i dont believe for one second you went that fast in an evo Yeah, that seems a little unrealistic. 143mph is smokin' in the quarter though, what was the et? And details on the car?

An engine will run fine with no back pressure, not saying it's optimal, but they don't NEED it. If your state has emissions testing you'll never pass though. I'm not condoning straight pipes or anything but if you cut your exhaust off it will still run. The computer can compensate for changes. H pipes and X pipes really won't do much except for change the tone and an argument can be made they help with exhaust flow on lower horsepower engines. The difference on the average car would likely be under 10rwhp/tq in most any case, then again there's a lot of variables. If US Cafe standards weren't so strict we'd have 50+mpg diesels all over like Europe. The internal combustion engine has come a long way, but can still be improved upon. I personally think the government should get out of the business of telling companies what and what not to do and requiring average fuel economies and let the market dictate what's produced, but that's a different discussion. What kind of car do you have and what type of racing do you do?

I hate the sound of x-pipes, too raspy. I have an x-pipe on my Malibu and I'm really not pleased with the sound, but it's pretty quiet so it's staying that way. I could probably get a tenth or two in the quarter running open headers but I'm way too lazy to try it. Horrible video considering the other car is a lot louder, but you get the idea.

Looks like we joined for the same reason.

All the time, if I don't have any alcohol in my system I get the shakes. Hence the name.