jj1479
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Posts posted by jj1479
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Email nick
nick@fiaudio.com
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they have a 45,000w amp too but unless you meet their standards.. u can just sit there and drool all you want because they are very picky at who qualifies to run their equipment.
Hi there,
I am sorry but i dont know where you heard this from, we dont do that
We only ask some basics questions about you and if you know what you dealing with
because there is a lot of high school students on this the forums and they think they know how to build a big system
For the 45k2d of course we going to ask you some questions, THE QUESTIONS IS TO HELP YOU SO YOU DONT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS
If you have the money and wanna buy the equipment we will sell to you, we try to help before selling the equipment so we dont get a bad reputation from bad installations
Did you know the 45k2d is a 240volts amplifier ?? no a lot of people know who to install a 240volts amplifier and not even know how to use the power
Im not pointing anything, i dont know you maybe you are a guru on car audio but im just want to be clear about us picking who uses our equipment
There is no such thing
Wouldn't happen to have any pictures of that beast would you????
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As title says has anyone had any experience/problems with mechman alternators?
I'm going to pick a new alt up this week but can't decide between ordering a DC or a Mechman. DC is $629+ shipping and mechman quoted me $449.99+shipping. I called DC on Friday but got know answer and emailed them from their website on Friday and awaiting a reply.
I have looked over their topics on this forum and see some complaints with shipping/communication but know one's perfect and I just want to know if saving a couple of $$ is worth it in the long run.
Joe
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Pop out the Little round plastic tabs outer/inner and it should lift up.
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Well after a long time looking/comparing I finally ditched my crossfire vr4000d and bought a Sundown Audio saz-3500d
. I needed something that I could run my Tc sounds axis subs that have the RETARDED quad 1.2ohm coils (instead of 1ohm coils) and after reading alot of posts of people running the 3500s below 1ohm and with little to know complaints I had to have one. I hooked it up yesterday to just 1 sub and WOW it was impressive now I just have to build a box for the pair and make a couple of videos. This Is going in my 09 Ford Escape XLT with Alpine cda-9887, 2 optima red tops up front and a Kinetik hc2400 in the back a stinger voltmeter with all 1/0 wire through out. I had my crossfire running (-1redtop) and my voltage was dropping pretty low at idle so I'm going to get either a DC or Mechman alt just don't know which one yet an the alt is damn near impossible to put in without taking alot of parts off to mount it. Thanks alot FORD
Joe
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Damn that sucks. Have to pull everything out through the back seat due to the trunk?
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I assume that you are using a (L) port? Since you port lenght is 15" and the box stats says 12"? unless you front is 3" thick?
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Looking nice. Grill guard looks like it will do the job
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Might be a long shoot but do you think that the plug for one of the computers for the car came lose from all of the bass shaking everything for long periods? Or the main fuse for the car in the fuse box under the hood might of worked lose.
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Try Steve @ ampmedics he will fix it.
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I think they only fix linear power amps don't they?
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Ampmedics Steve fixes alot of different brands and db-r sends him amps that they are to busy to fix. Does realy good work. Fixed 2 of my older Orion amps and my crossfire amp. Fast turnaround time
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Love how the tc baskets look.
Box looks great too, lots of port
Ya I like the way they look but I liked the look of my tc 3000's better. They had the black baskets and the vents for the coils had wire mesh in them.
The box was actually done for over a month now just didn't have time to put it in. I kinda feel down my hardwood steps on April 12th due too my wife using pledge on them and i twisted my hip and pulled the tendons real bad so i couldn't walk for awhile. But i couldn't wait any longer it had to go in.
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What do you think of the Axis subs?
At first when I had them in my escape I had them in the box that was built for the Fi Bls that I had an they honestly didn't sound good at all. But now that they are in a bigger box with alot more port they sound 100% better.
BUT now I have a problem, their was a brace between the subs in the box that attached the front to the port and it just broke loose a couple of minutes ago so now i have to rip the seats back out and take the subs out to fix.
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Little video we took today.
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Well decided to take my stuff out of my 09 Ford Escape and see how it sounds in my s10 for a couple of weeks. I Know the battery needs moved and its unsafe on top of the box but this was just a throw in setup to see how it sounds. It will be secured down tomorrow.
The truck is only used to pull my kubota bx25 from job to job so it doesn't get used every day but have to have some kinda tunes.
The only thing that i don't like is the subs are quad 1ohm coils but they read 1.2ohms and the final ohm load is 2.9-2.6ohms depending on the mm i used.
So with out another battery and a bigger alternator they arn't getting all the amp has to offer but it does get LOUD
System includes
Pioneer DEH-7200HD deck
Tc Sounds Axis subs
Crossfire VR4000D amp
Big 3
Knukoncepts 1/0 wire
Kinetik KHC 2400 battery
Box comes in around 6.4cf net tuned to 32hz
I have a video we took today of it. The whole box moves and the battery bounces around. Will up load it later.
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Don't have to worry about rock chips on the hood
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It is something I have considered but haven't seen a huge market for at this time since we offer multiple coil configurations people can get the power they need @ 1 ohm.
My problem is i have 2 subs with quad 1 ohm coils. So is it more exspensive to make one run at 2 ohm.
I think the problem is having quad 1 ohm coils. There's no reason to have a quad coil sub unless you plan on running 8 amps to it.
Well they don't make the sub that i wanted with any other coil options so thats what i had to go with.
Most amps, class D inclusive, are not most efficient at the lowest rated impedance... In fact, they usually takes a dump at efficiency on the bottom of load tolerance... And dampening goes to hell....
Have you tested efficiency at different loads before? I've tested Class D's that are more efficient at lower impedance than higher, until below rated, then it just goes to hell. It's all subject to the components used.
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Is your line out converter set? As in did you adjust the level settings on it? On my stinger unit it has a ground wire that has to be hooked up for it to work.
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Is there any time frame on these to be available? As in a month. Two months. Longer? Just been looking around and can't find any estimates in the past few months.
As said several times before they don't give release dates. When they are availble they will be on their web site.
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Who knows maybe he will keep that stuff longer then twisted keeps his stuff.
Maybe twisted will help him.0 -
It is something I have considered but haven't seen a huge market for at this time since we offer multiple coil configurations people can get the power they need @ 1 ohm.
My problem is i have 2 subs with quad 1 ohm coils. So is it more exspensive to make one run at 2 ohm.
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Just a crazy idea I had. Suspension isnt very tight. cone moves with ease. Still unsure of this but the coils read higher than what i usually see on a D2 coiled subwoofer, think it was close to 2.4 per coil.. thought it was a sign of being abused or worn out?? still unsure on any truth to that. either way i thought i had nothing to loose and emailed for info on a recone. Go ahead and throw that idea out the window. Buying a used subwoofer you never truly know how the person before you treated it.
Does it have alot of spider sag to it? If you look straight across the spider you can tell.That will change the reading of the coils
No..
A coil has X feet of wire on it for a desired dcr.
The only time you get added resistance is when you get a tinsel popping or a solder joint that is half melted from clipping the thing to death.
Then why does the ohms change when you put pressure on the cone or set something light on it? Wouldn't that change what the amp See's as to a ohm load or doesn't it work like that?
You are moving wire in a magnetic gap creating a field.
So if the suspension is loose in his speaker and it does have minor sag that might be why he gets the 2.4 ohm reading?
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Just a crazy idea I had. Suspension isnt very tight. cone moves with ease. Still unsure of this but the coils read higher than what i usually see on a D2 coiled subwoofer, think it was close to 2.4 per coil.. thought it was a sign of being abused or worn out?? still unsure on any truth to that. either way i thought i had nothing to loose and emailed for info on a recone. Go ahead and throw that idea out the window. Buying a used subwoofer you never truly know how the person before you treated it.
Does it have alot of spider sag to it? If you look straight across the spider you can tell.That will change the reading of the coils
No..
A coil has X feet of wire on it for a desired dcr.
The only time you get added resistance is when you get a tinsel popping or a solder joint that is half melted from clipping the thing to death.
Then why does the ohms change when you put pressure on the cone or set something light on it? Wouldn't that change what the amp see's as to a ohm load or doesn't it work like that?
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Order MIx-up.
in General Fi
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He will Fi has excellent customer service.