deernet

thanks Thanks for all the hard work and info what kind of head unit do you have that accepted 8gb and 16gbs. Thanks If you do end up getting another HU, I love my Alpine CDA-105 for its external hard drive/flash drive, and iPod capabilities. I think I'm fixing to switch to one of the Pioneer DVD players though.

I think I first found something on Steve Mead, got interested in Fi through him, found this site through Fi's. The forum leaders here seem to be far more knowledgeable than the ones on other audio forums. I'm so glad I found this place. Ordered a BTL 18 yesterday, I'd like that thank Steve Mead for introducing me to Fi, and teaching me so much through his build logs. That guy is so great at car audio fabrication, and its not even his full time job.

Thanks man! I really appreciate it, I was hoping I would catch it before ya'll started building it. I'm glad I chose a company with such great customer service. BTW, I can't wait to hear that thing. I'm sure I'll be recommending you guys to everyone I know based on customer service and quality, but I'm sure the sub will also speak for itself.

Bump, just want to make sure NDMstang or somebody sees this before they start building my sub.

Currently I've got a P3002 and two Memphis twelves and a Memphis 15. I'm planning on upgrading my wiring to 1/0, and thinking I'll probably need an upgraded alternator. Someone in another thread said something about needing extra batteries for a T1500, I was thinking I'd be okay with the alternator. Opinions? By the way, I'm planning on ordering a BTL 18 next. I'm also looking for ideas on box design. Its going in an Explorer, so I've got plenty of room. I want the sub facing the roof and the port facing the front. Planning on making a amp rack out of some plexi too, I'll have to post some pics.

You really seem like you don't want to try to build one yourself, but I second everyone else on it not being that hard. You can find some designs right here on the site. All you need is a skill saw and a router or a sawzall for cutting the circle. After you get through your first one, you'll never have to worry about paying someone to make you one, or buying a prefab again.

A removable port? Not sure I've ever seen one, I can't really even picture what you mean.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass. Different size drivers in the same ride = no good. I'm sure your probably right, but why? I personally thought it sounded a lot better when I added the 12s.

build log forsure! if you want to face the port towards the inside of the vehicle then go ahead Yeah, I'd like to make a good build log, but all I've got is a shitty cell phone camera to work with. I've got a nice Canon digital elph, but its been lost at my dads house for over a year. I'll have to see if I can borrow a camera from someone. I can't wait to get everything. This will be the most powerful system I've ever had.

Yeah I was hoping I'd be allright since I caught it a few hours after I ordered. Edit: While we're at it, can I change the dustcap color from fire to engine turn? Haha, sorry for being so indecisive, I'd just like to get everything perfect the first time. I plan on making a plexi amp rack with a mirror on the bottom, thought the engine turn would compliment the mirror after thinking about it. Promise I won't ask for anything else, except maybe a free sticker.

That is one badass setup.

I also emailed sales@ficaraudio.com, but got the email about high message volume, so figured it would be best to post also. Hope I can get this changed.

You'll have to recone to change to dual 1.

Try hitting up your local welding supply, they'll probably even put them on for free.

Well, I went ahead and ordered the Mechman alternator. I also ordered an Fi BTL 18, fully loaded. I'm excited to say the least. As for the enclosure for the BTL, I think I'm going to use the optimal design for the XCON thats on the site here. Its 7.65 cubic feet. The only thing I think I'll change is to make the port be on the side instead of on the same side as the driver. I want to have the sub facing up towards the top of my vehicle and the port facing forward towards the front of the vehicle. Does anyone see any issues for this design with this driver?

Bump, I'm going to order the Mechman alternator today, opinions?

The Herculiner is great stuff goes on with a roller and can put on as many coats as needed. Best thing is it doesn't stink! So it's the regular bed liner, right? Not something made just for boxes? About how much did it cost you?

DC Power or Mechman.

I really like the Herculiner, I'm fixing to build a box myself, I think I'll try it out. It's just the regular bed liner isn't it? Also, where did you get that Tsunami voltage meter? I googled it and couldnt find one. I did find this badass thing they make that fits on top of an Optima battery and is a big distribution block, I'm thinking about getting one of those.

Parts-Express.com:�1/4"-20 Deluxe 6-Prong T-Nuts 50 Pcs. | t nut t-nut fastener insert nut machine screw Cool, I haven't seen those before. I thought I was pretty up on my hardware since I've worked construction, but I guess you learn something everyday. Those look like they would be a lot better than using wood screws. So do you just drill a 5/16 hole and beat the T-nut in? I'm glad I found this thread, I'm going to use those in my next box.

A Napa Power 65, its 710 cranking amps at 32 F. Last night at work two or three people were trying to convince me that I didn't need a high output alternator, that I should just get a capacitor. I tried to convince them that capacitors don't work and are a marketing gimmick, but to no avail. Someone suggested adding a second battery with my stock alternator, but I don't think that would do much good, and it seems like it would put a lot of strain on the stock alternator, I could be wrong though. This is my first system over 1000 watts, and I know Fosgate stuff is usually underrated, so I figured I should be prepared rather than risk my amp. Thats something else the people at work were trying to convince me of, that an underpowered system couldn't hurt an amplifier. I mean I know I don't know everything about car audio, hell I guess I don't know a lot, but I try to learn what I can, and use common sense. Some people just act like they know everything and can't be convinced otherwise. Another question I have is about external regulators for high output alternators. I saw a thread on here where someone was talking about them, but I didn't see a really good explanation. I'm not sure if Mechman offers them or not. Do they let you adjust the output voltage of the alternator, or what do they do?

I just made a deal to sell my glock, I'm going to use the money from that to order the Mechman alternator tomorrow. I'm hoping that will be enough to run the amp. If not, I guess I'll get an XS Power battery. Do ya'll think I should go ahead and try to get the 3100, or would a smaller battery be alright for the T1500?

I'm pretty sure you can already buy something like that that will turn two 1/0s into one. I know I've used similar adapters in industrial electricity. Try an electrical wholesale.

wtf??? ya lets not hook 2-12v batteries in series and not feed the amp 24vdc lol!! try hooking them in parrellel unless you are hooking 2-6vdc batteries in series! also if you have 1/0 going into the amp make sure you have 1/0 going out of the amp!! theere was a guy on here who wanted to do 1/0 in and 4awg out b/c he didn'thave enough 1/0 for a ground lol!!! some ppl kids! jsut making sure you don't do this. LOL, yeah my bad, I mean in parallel. I'd just got done working 12 hours when I wrote that.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass.