ShaiTan

I thought of that as well. That may be what I go with.

The 6.5's are for my blazer which has no amps or subs. Just an Alpine head unit and some Wal-Mart special Pioneer 6.5's in front and rear doors, and Pioneer 4x6's in front dash. Now for my Cavalier. I do have an amped sub. Hoping to upgrade from my Alpine SWR-1222D to an SSA Xcon 12D2 soon.. So I'm not talking about taking out all of the bass. Just some of the lower frequencies, like 600Hz and lower for the 4x6's and 300Hz and lower for the 6x9's. I mean how well can those things (4x6's) that have only a half inch of travel at most reproduce those lower tones very well. The frequency response is 28Hz-25,000Hz for the 4x6's and 25 - 30,000Hz for the 6x9's. The RMS value for the 4x6's are only 20w which is what the head unit puts out. So no amplification can be used there. Also the RMS value of the 6x9's is only 80w. I have not really decided on if I am gonna amplify the rear speakers or not yet. The factory locations for the front and rear speakers don't reproduce bass very well anyway. It's almost like it isn't there. So as you can tell by my setup. I am not out there trying to win any competitions with my stereo. I just want it to sound good. As far as cost goes. $75 for the 6x9's and $25 for the 4x6's and around $40 (I think) for the 6.5's. The bass blockers I was looking at are the Stinger inline type for around $10 shipped for a pair. With all that said. What is your opinion. I don't want to spend the extra money if I don't need to. Was just a thought that had come to mind the other day.

Ok I hope I set this up correctly. Got another question for everyone. Decided to make it a poll. Years ago in the area I grew up in everyone used bass blockers to remove lower frequencies from the smaller speakers 4x6, 5x7, 6.5 and 6x9's. Keeping all the lower bass to the larger speakers. The smaller the speaker the higher the bass blocker frequency. The larger the speaker the lower the blocker frequency. Till you got to the subs. Then they were controlled by the amp so none were used. I have never used them myself. But I am now finding myself looking into purchacing some for my non amped, non component speakers ( the ones listed in the poll ). What are your opinions? Are bass blockers even worth it? Are the frequencies and sizes listed in the poll good to do? Or is it just a waste of money? If you have other opinions please choose #5 and post your opinion. Otherwise just choose an answer.

Don't rely solely on Ah as a means of measuring a battery for car audio applications. this may help: car battery sizing for audio applications I actually just posted the above page this week because I've been seeing this topic pop up quite a bit recently. So basically what you are saying is this.... I have 2 Shuriken SK-BT20's at 850CA and 20AH each. WIre them in parallel for a total of 1700CA and 40AH. Which theoretically would be enough as a replacement for my main battery. Or do as I intended and use those 2 as the rear batteries for the amp and add say a Shuriken SK-BT35 at 950CA and 35AH. Wire it in parllel to the SK-BT20's for a grand total 2650CA and 75AH. Which should be plenty for up to 2000w of total system draw. Which should be plenty for my MB Quart DSC1000.1 and a 2 channel amp for my rear deck speakers. Along with all the normal vehical electrical system. I apologize for my ramblings and questions. I just want to be sure I do things at least somewhat properly. And not hob cobble things together that don't belong or should not be used. I also like to hear others opinions and advice. Because you all know more about this stuff than I do. And may offer something that I have not thought of.

I know CCA is most important in a starting battery. I had a '72 mustang mach 1 that needed a bare minimum of 1000cca to even crank the engine over to attempt to start. However my cavalier only has a 525 cca battery but is also a 50AH battery. Genuine AC Delco factory battery by the way. I also live in Iowa where it gets mighty cold in the winter time and terribly hot in sumer. It hit around 90 today and it's not the hot part of the year yet. So I need a battery that will hold up to both extremes as a daily driver. Right now I have 2 Shuriken SK-BT20's at 850CA and 20AH each which I am going to use as the reserve in the trunk for the amp(s) (thinking of adding a 2 channel amp for the rear speakers as well). Eventually I will need to replace the stock battery as it's already 5+ years old. Hence why I was looking into Shuriken, Kinetik and XS Power. The largest of those brands that will fit are.... Shuriken - SK-BT35 at 950CA and 35AH. at approx $100 Kinetik - HC1200 at 50AH rest unlisted. at approx $200 XS Power - D1200 at 44AH rest unlisted. at approx $180 XS Power - S1200 at 725CA min. RC 80A rest unlisted. at approx $200 So with those 2 Shurikens in the trunk which would be the best bet of those listed above? I'm thinking the Shuriken for the price and CA. Except for the AH rating is a little low compared to the Delco already in the car. Or the XS S1200 for the higher RC rating but lower CA than the Shruiken. So kind of a toss up in a way.

I just looked at my battery specs. And the largest Shuriken that would fit the stock location is their 35AH battery. My stock one is 50AH. So shuriken will not work as main battery replacement in my case. Unless I make a new battery tray, which I really don't want to do. So it looks like it's either Kinetik or XS Power as main replacement. Optima Yellow top is also too large. Gotta love cavaliers.

Has anyone had any experience with Shruiken AGM batteries? Can they be used as main battery replacement? Or are they just for auxiliary use only for audio?

That is the outer diameter and the cutout diameter. I want the screw hole diameter around the sub.

Does anyone know the exact mounting hole diameter for the XCON 12? Not the individual hole size. But the entire mounting circle.

From what I have read it's not bad to use. Some people don't use them while others do. I havn't hooked mine up yet, but plan on doing so to see how it sounds and reacts. If I don't like it with the bass boosted then I can always remove it. If you choose to use it to boost your bass turn the bass boost all the way up at the amp and then turn it down to zero on the bass boost knob. The remote know overrides the dial on the amp from what I gather. You will need to set your gain(s) where you plan on keeping your bass knob. Remember you can always turn it down from where you set it. But it will of course reduce your voltage to the subs in doing so. Typically bass boost is around 45Hz. So use that test tone to set your gains on the amp. Maybe someone else with more knowledge will also reply with better opinions or facts.

Was just rearranging the tones to burn to cd and noticed you don't have the 86hz sine wave. Is that intentional or just forgot it? It's not really that important it's there in my opinion. But was just wondering. Nevermind. It's there.

Was just rearranging the tones to burn to cd and noticed you don't have the 86hz sine wave. Is that intentional or just forgot it? It's not really that important it's there in my opinion. But was just wondering.

i tryed yours... some will unzip some wont. It's a multipart zip file I do believe. If you unzip part 1 it will unzip them all.

Now that is a huge list of tones. A full cd worth of mp3's. I read somewhere but I don't remember where that you should use only wav format test tones and not mp3, wma and similar to set the amps gains. They said that it changed the actual frequiency or wave forrm or something like that. Is this true or false? And what about mp3/wma that has been converted to wav format and vice versa?

Ultra Felx is orange and still 60 cents more expensive per foot than Trystar cable 1/0. Even with the price break of bulk ordering of 50' Trystar is still 10 cents chaper. Besides. Orange will not look good at all in my car since it is silver with dark gray interior. But it is an option for those who like orange.