Robert

Now thats a cookie!!!!! Thanks for your knowledge I am unfortunately using some habib 12 ga. just from my P1000-1bd to my 12's at 1ohm and have been wanting to get some stinger pro 8 ga. to replace the 12 ga.

:rofl2: :rofl2: Love that sub box!!!!

just get a original new sub if its 100 dollars more

If you would of watched the video then you would of known the beginning footage was with stock alt, at end of video with dc alt its sitting at 14v+ Sorry not first vid the second one. I was curious since the alt doesn't have to top off a battery bank just car electronics, the battery up front and his amps wouldn't that 270 be enough to not drop down to 11. I understand maybe at idle since RPM at idle not the same as driving but still for 270 amp dropping to 11v is that normal? Shouldn't that much amperage alt be enough with even one battery? And why do people use blue tops or red tops for car audio if the yellow top is the only one optima ever intended for car audio?

Just to know is this a lie? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scripts/rightnow.cfg/php.exe/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=806 Down where it says "you paid for 1000 watts... but what did you get?"

Thanks.

Right off the bat, I'm a dork lately on the "tech" guys and the "super" ear guy tug of war on most of the threads on here when it comes to "1000 RMS" differences. The only thing I come up with say half the city I live in doesn't even know about this website or anything outside of what the guy at the flea market that is installing the system tells them, these people when buying a speaker of certain RMS they want a amp that does the same RMS output to match. In there head why would they get a 3000 RMS sub just to throw 2000 RMS at it? Now get the firing squad ready for me too I have been around when two different systems are installed and you can notice the "stronger" one easily. The dude with "weaker" system will have that look on his face of . If the sub that anyone is getting can handle X amount of watts and they can afford an amp that matches the sub then whats the problem? Thanks again for you guys patience with me. If you want request for me to hit myself with a mallet its at arms reach

So then i shouldn't buy a saz 2500 and two fi Q 12's to replace my P1000-1bd and two type R 12's because I wont notice a difference?

So going off the last diagram if you have more than one amp is it safe to use a ground distribution block for the neg on both amps then the other end of distribution block to the neg post of rear battery? And you also ground rear battery to chassis as well as all the way to front negative? I was thinking of using this http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KND-23 for the two amp grounds to the ground on rear battery then running 1/0 ground from rear battery neg to front battery neg, but if this is good setup I just need to know if I still need to wire a short run of ground off rear battery neg to chassis.

Sorry for my stupidity but this is why I have wanted to run my P1000-1bd at 2ohm rather than 1ohm on two type R 12's

how about looking into mechman alternator?

Since there is just one battery to charge shouldn't that alternator be able to stay around 14 -13v ?

I'm lookin at da BOOTY!!!!!!

That KNU kit is CCA not OFC Since we are throwing around links here's what I use. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10559_Rockford-Fosgate-RFK1.html may not be cheap but it worked for me. PEACE!!!!!

In most cases UPS deliveries are much faster than the actual updates on their website your package is moving and their is a bit of lag in their system. Every business that profits from holiday sales is prepared for this rush. The thing about UPS is that even if they say they deliver until 7pm they really dont control the drivers, if they want to go home they save the last bit for the next day an most UPS guys around here run their business routes all day then switch to residential around five.

Hello 808 welcome! I have a friend down there too! see you around.

That sounds good I would use the 250amp fuse.

so the lesson of the day is don't splice power wires?

I have a viper 5901 2 way with proximity sensor but I still park car in gate with lock and chain, then my dog is a few yards back she barks at the neighbor's too so if someone try's to hop the gate dog goes nuts and if you even walk to fast up to the car the proximity sensor skips warning chirp and just goes full alarm. I got it at http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16156_Viper+5901+-p-n+5702V-.html http://www.amazon.com/Install-Essentials-508D-Disturbance-Sensor/dp/B0009VFOME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1289885371&sr=8-1 Then payed best buy to put only alarm in. The few bucks I saved I was able to buy beer with it

It might be that the pre order pricing has ended but I don't really know... you said you have access to tools correct? I had a man that goes by the name Fallen over on another site and he does basic box designs for $10 and add $5 for a cut sheet I got two designs one ported and one sealed all I had to do was buy sheets of MDF at lowe's. I am happy with his work so you might give him a try. Here's his link. http://www.nightmareaudio.com/index.html your going to have to dig up your subs spec's he will need that. Shoot him an email and explain what your thinking about.

cover your bases and just sand the spot where your ground is just take inline fuse out first.

I would go with this for your amp http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SAZ%252d2500D.html good luck!

good job! that sub is massive!!!!