Robert

It's not your car that's the problem on this one.. What did they send you to bypass the PCM, or are you running the alternator off the PCM? I can help you fix it, just need more specifics.. Rob Rob sorry I missed this we can discuss this through PM personally I don't care what is said but I don't want to thread jack. But to answer you I really don't know the inner working of the car. I assume CPU controls alt but mine came with a pot wire harness between alt and factory harness I set it to 15.1 cold and once car warms up it drops to 14.6 - 14.4 depending how hot it is outside. I will say that my car is in need of other sensor upgrades and when light used to kick on with OE alt autozone code readout was because O2 sensor would trip it on or throttle position sensor was bad. I replaced the TPS recently and just today was working on car and noticed the air charge sensor was not installed into air box. but that back in today left battery unplugged to reset CPU and no light has come on. I'm rebuilding audio from 1500rms to around to around 4000rms so their are alot of things that can be wrong car wise aside from anything that could possibly be wrong Alternator wise. My car isn't a honda either but thanks for anything you have to teach me.

wangin hard!

what do the papers that come in bow tell you? I assume they will tell you to send it in to have it looked at to get a final answer good luck.

Bad ass box Stefan!!!!!

try a recone kit?

probably saw video where it dies in a burp..... but that is a good sub good stuff for the money. Things break here and there good to see reality once in awhile

The thing is that my ECU takes forever to learn and by that time engine light is back on so disconnect battery to reset and REPEAT. I just get tired of undoing battery si I just drive with check engine light on all the time.

For your rear widow autozone sells a 5% rear window kit. It is actually strips of tint that you do one at a time. I'm thinking about using it even though its tacky fug it cheaper than paying alot more. I can't find autozone link but this link is the same thing. http://www.amazon.com/Gila-HPR72-X26-Strip-Limo/dp/B0006301F0

But I don't think this rough idling was happening before new alternator correct? Their have been tiny threads here and there on web that stuff like this happens when upgrading alternators.every car is different and can be a combination of things/sensors messed up but its always odd when before swap everything is cool :/ As for smoke in back always take in line fuses out or all your stuff when going to mechanic's... I don't trust them sorry.

if your set on getting one save a bit more and just get this, http://www.testextra.com/tpi/pages/tpi_440_1mhz_handheld_oscilloscope_true_rms_dmm.htm even comes with the alligator clips to connect to the RCA's while playing test tones to see sine wave and while your turning gain dial.

From what I been told they should be here before may 5th then give them the next week to kick orders out.

this is pretty much all you see on it This is the specs # 7-Band Rotary Equalizer # 12 dB Boost/Cut at 50 Hz, 125 Hz, 345 Hz, 750 Hz, 2.2 KHz, 6 KHz, and 16 kHz # Auxiliary Input with Source Select Switch # Adjustable Aux Input Sensitivity # Subwoofer Output Level Control # Gold-Plated Preamp Inputs and Outputs # Rotary Volume Control and Fader # 6-Channel RCA Outputs # Selectable 60/90 Hz Low-Pass Crossover # Crossover Slope: 12 dB/octave # Maximum Output Level: 7V RMS # Input Sensitivity: 50mV–4V RMS # Signal-To-Noise Ratio (S/N): 105 dB # Frequency Response: 10-50,000 Hz # Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.005 % # Input Impedance: 10K Ohms # Output Impedance: 50K Ohms # Stereo Separation: 82 dB @ 1 kHz In the ad it says this, At each of the band centers, a 12 dB boost/cut is offered to precisely adjust the frequencies of each band. It also features a dedicated subwoofer level output for enhanced subwoofer control.

huh.......

JBLCAMRY you are killing me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol all good cant wait on your test results.

On mine centered dials means how they came out of the box all 7 bands have this little dot and when you turn each one theirs a little indention at the "12 O'clock" position. when I run my RCA's straight to amps everything sounds weak compared to using the Clarion EQ. It has 7volt pre outs I guess that has something to do with it over the 4 volt out my headunit. The only reason why I keep using it is because everything sounds better with it

JBLcamry I envy you lol I just jumped on the pre order since I had the funds for it . Its a shame on the delays and length of tim people have been waiting, but if you have one one day I will too

From your cut out sheet How much was done at the store? How close to measurements did they get? and how much did it cost for them to cut for you? Thats a bad ass box!!!!

where did you get the carpet? Very good skills enjoy!!!!

Please look into the alt some more. Mechman or DCpower are very respected companies and leaps and bounds Technically better over that PB alternator.

Although I'm a noob I have set volume /gains before clipping from the headunit on down and that is my headunit clips at 28 on volume with bass boost off and built in EQ set to zero. From there I go to RCA's coming out of the clarion EQ and on mine with all the dials centered the volume and sub knobs are about 3/4 turned up with no clipping. Overall I understand it might not be needed but I just don't like how everything sounds with out it. I might just like the fact that the pre out voltage might be giving out a cleaner signal and thats what I like.

True but I am only going from my experience of it, If the OP doesn't mind what I have said about the clarion EQ then go for it, If he wants a bit more control then the audiocontrol EQS might be something to read into, but thats pretty expensive just as a #sixty.2/3 was is going to be. "If you are into more of a "Total Sound System" Where MUSIC is more important than just having alot of bass or just being loud ... then I would say that having a very nice Equalizer will be a great learning / tuning experience for you and your system ... The whole idea is for Your system to sound the way YOU want it to ... "

thats where on this EQ I get confused,in my car I left att the bands in middle and it never clipped but then yurn just one of any of the 7 bands and square wave comes out. Yes they should be balanced but I thought that when I run RCA's out of sub output that I could control the lower bands apart from the front and rear outputs of the EQ. This is my fault for not looking into it more but thats what I would like. Everything is tied together I am leaning more towards this, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6358_AudioControl-EQS-GRAY.html

I have used clarion's EQ in my car as well as installing it in my friends car. I turned all the bands maxed out except the volume knob and O scoped the EQ to find where it clipped after finding where the head unit clipped then connected it to amps and set gains as usual on the amps. If anything sounded to harsh then I could turn certain bands down a bit to balance the sound out better. I want to find an EQ that has bands independent for each channel not tied together. Example on clarion EQ if I want to raise the 50hz band a bit more on a certain song it also raises it on through to the 4ch amp also and I don't want the mids and high's sounding bad just want it to raise up to sub amp. If you can deal with that the clarion EQ is a good entry level EQ that you will notice doing work.

leave all the EQ settings in radio at zero make sure RCA'S to amp from headunit are set to SUB OUT. I had a P1000-1bd so knobs in amp are pretty much the same, crossover at amp turn dial to about 12 o'clock and gain around 2 o'clock position and see what you notice. are you sure you have the right D1 or D2 version of sub you might be wiring to 4ohm...