dcyphure

No its not bad at all..like just typical vibration you feel on any box. I'm reffering to what they call "resonance"? i think. i read that you should reduce resonance of your box as much as possible....i just wondered if dynomat inside the enclosure would have any impact on sound. but yeah obviously dynomatting my vehicle would help too but it doesnt rattle anyway.

my 1501d amp says made in china, what ones are made in USA? good amp though, i really like it, but its twice as long compared to the Kicker IX with same output. Bring back some endcaps for crying out loud, i miss steal installs, no one uses end caps no more.

I purchased an Atrend 12dq dual sealed enclosure, 1.25 ft3 per sub, .75" thick MDF, miter joint and dado groove. supposedly one of the best built prefabs you can get and seems to be true from inspection. Though i plan to get a couple of subs that are optimized for 1.25 sealed, probably w6.2's. I was testing it out with a W3v3 JL sub and i noticed....just like every other sub box i have ever used or built, when hand placed on box, i can feel some vibration. In the past, i used to coat the interior with fiberglass, truck bed liner..etc, whatever i could think of that would lessen it, but i'm not sure if it really helps the sub or not...i never really did a side by side comparison. I just wanted to know before i go spending time and money tinkering with a good box, how detrimental is some vibration to the sound of the sub? IF i were to put some, say Dynomat inside the box, would the sub theoretically be louder, sound better? or is all this a waste of time.

haha i'm not far from ya. i'm in Muncie. I work in Anderson some times.

so your answer is no answer, which means you don't even know the truth beyond the "teenage cool syndrome". rage up and fight against the machine dewwwdd if the amp puts out and lasts years, wtf difference does it matter. but you don't know of course. its kinda like why some hate Walmart and go to bobs discount instead. nah, i'll tell you what the truth is. you have cheaply made products, mid end products and high end products and low production uber high end catering to the wealthy or customizing for them. Quality generally follows research and design and/or license patents. Most audio companies in general do not have any or very many patents themselves, they license from RF,Kicker or whoever designed the specific piece of technology, some of which came from home theater companies years ago. All of which effects price...anything missing and you fail as a company cause no one will buy a junk amp that doesnt work as intended or too high failure rate. Boss, Jensen..etc. generally cater to the low end product lines but even cheap parts can last forever if design is good...thats why their still around, probably make more money than most. I still have a Optimus (radioshack) power EQ thats 20 yrs old and still works, but only costed $50 back in the day. Either way, $430 shipped for a 1000 watt MTX amp is not bad at all, regardless of what you think.

and what is the truth? I do know one truth, a no name 2000 watt amp for $189, not CEA certified nor any pics or talk of its guts shows its not a very proud company. Had amps like that in the past, i'm sure theres a reason why i no longer have them. But i got it half of MSRP, about the same prices as most others in its class including non mainstream amps.

lol. ALL their ads are like that...who would not laugh? i literally cracked up for a several minutes going through their website. They should really change their marketing strategy, plus their limiting their market focus on young black people. Fake diamonds reminds me similarly to those cheap Duel bandpass subs with those disco lights inside the box....lol, disco. nah, i settled on the MTX thunder elite 1501. couldnt find any negative reviews of it out there and MTX been around forever so i'm sure i'll be happy with it.

yes but the amp is intended for years and years of use. The sub is not. I still have an 15 year old RF punch 60ix amplifier i spent $400 on back in the day. Amps are the only part of car audio that i future proof or try to. So IF i got 15 years out of a $1000 amp...compared to how much some audio enthusiasts spend within 15 years. i'm probably doing dam good. But most major brand amps within that power range can be found new for half that, so no worries. HU's, Subs, boxes....etc, is all the stuff i like to change up every couple or so years. I'm sure you understand. I know nothing of AudioPipe's build quality or actual rated power. But at the moment, i'm looking hard at MTX thunder Elite. Their one of the few makers so far i've seen that actually tell me the quality of individual internal parts. like isdm circuit boards...etc. Most others only say they use Mosfets and thats about all i gather from them. i try to research heavily into any product i plan to keep for many years and not just buy whatever is cheapest or based on linear experiences of "some guy" on its own. Maybe AP would last 15 yrs, i dunno but who does? is that for MSRP prices? or unauthorized dealers, garage sales..what?I mean i can too and have in the past. I can also build a $2000 computer for $500 but thats all part of buying any product. some can, some can't or some just won't. but i don't go with brands i'm not familiar with out of the blue. i've learned too many hard lessons over the years and seen others as well. *edit: hehe, i just noticed Audiopipes marketing. how stereotypical and too much "bling,bling" for my tastes. White girls and gangsta's with products that have fake diamonds in them isnt exactly a noble statement to me, but if they last 15 years i'm game...though dunno how long they been around? but their marketing really cracked me up though i mean, how could anyone take this AD seriously?

probably no more than $1000. I'm also considering MTX amps, though their amps i'm looking at are either 1000 watts at 2ohm or 2200 watts at 2ohms...i'd prefer closer to 1500, i think 2200 watts is likely too much for the L7 to handle in a ported box. i don't really want to blow the sub or nothing.

thanks guys. ALso, what do you guys think of Soundstream Amps?...do they do rated? i really like the D towers and Stealth series, but can't find much solid info on their peformance or quality. @julian: which Stetsom line of amps are you reffering to? they have digital, evolution, spl...all kinds. never heard of them, so i'll have to research them some more first.

Looking for a quality amp that can push about 1200 - 1500 actual RMS @ 2 ohms. Class D and smaller design prefferred, mono block. This is for my L7 sub Been looking at the new Kicker amps. i like how small they are, and are CEA certified but want to see if i could find better out there. Also checked out Sundown 1500D amp but tests show only pushes 985 watts @ 2 ohms actual output. Hard to find amps with proper real world ratings.

heyall, i'm mike from indiana, 33yrs. currently upgrading 05 honda civic system and i took some shortcuts that i know some would find repulsive. (like instead of removing door panel, i dremel cut out the grill to replace OEM door speaker)...stuff like that. though i have been on/off car audio some 18 years, still a lot of technical stuff i don't know. Found this place on google and looks like i could learn a lot here. please dont banish me for taking shortcuts. i don't have proper tools and knowlege to take apart these stupid modern japanese cars. Had to do my door like that cause i had no patience to order a tool to remove the clip on the window crank and god knows how many other clips and hidden pry areas there were. I miss my old 70's cars. lol i can work on them.