the fat kid

Am I correct in assuming that if I go down in surface area that I would have to compensate with excursion? I know moving to ported alone will give me more output but I'd like it to be a good bit louder than I have now. And as to the components, I was going to put a.set in the factory location and another set in some kicks or the console. If I can nix them it'd be nice cause I could use my current 2ch amp on the single set. Do you think a single set would keep up with two q's or two bl 12s?

thanks for the response. the only reason i was going with the q is because the truck is my daily driver, and i do listen to music, im worried that the bl will be a bit too much on the spl side.

first off i REALLY hate to be "that guy" that posts these, "help me build my sytem" threads. however i guess i just have to break down and do it. so. basically heres my deal. current setup is this 4 diamond audio d1 tens, downfire, sealed with a cube per sub diamond d3 1100.1 diamond d1 250.2 alpine type r 6.5 component set alpine ida-x001 head unit i hit 135.6 db on a termlab playing the wocka flocka song "no hands". i couldnt play their test tone cd cause the alpine is a media reciver and i had no way to the the cd onto my hard drive to playback. nor did i know what a sealed box should even sound best at. but thats irrelavent. im planning on this setup next, money is a bit of an issue but i think this should work. i have questions on most of the components but ill ask after the list. 2 fi q 12s ported (1000-1200 rms each) kicker 2500.1 mono (2 ohms: 2500.1) 2 sets of the RE XXX 6.5 components (150 rms) kicker IX500.4 (2 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.) and id be keeping the head unit and probably running a pc and 10" monitor in there, as well as a big fancy fiberglassed box. however the enclosure will be all 1" mdf. the fiberglass will be more of a cosmetic addition to the box, and it will flow in between the bucket seats into a console that would hold the pc as well as the headunit relocation. now questions. the fi q reccomened ported box size is 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz. what affect does it have if the enclosure is built to the small or large side of that range, and the subs will be downfire, does the port need to be as well or does it need to be anywhere in particular to improve the sound? can the kicker 2500.1 push these two subs? not that im on an extreme budget but i dont want to spend alot over 700 the kicker ive found for 649 online. are the re xxx components worth a shit midbass wise? i have a set of alpine type r's currently, but i cant stand the amount or lack of midbass i have. would the kicker 4ch. amp push the re's well enough? lastly, is there ANY negative aspects to the fiberglass part of it? the actual enclosure will be completley built of 1" mdf. the fiberglass is more just for the looks of it. and my current subwoofers are tens, they have an xmax of 11mm each, so these two fi subs being 12s and having almost triple the excursion should be a noticeable amount different on a meter? i figure what im losing in surface area im making up for in excursion. sorry so long, but i dont wanna make a 3500 dollar mistake and hate all of this when im done. oops forgot, this is going in a 2008 dodge ram single cab truck, and yes ive checked i have room, i have about 6 cubes available. heres a sketch of the box to help visualize what im saying. thanks in advance.

you tellin me if you had hulkster cash you wouldnt help your kids do whatever they wanted to do, i know i would. threadjack over.

sick build. i read all 30 pages last week. been lurking.. anywho. and this is just my personal prefrence, but id move that blue neon up so you cant see the bulb, just the glow. but like i said thats my personal prefrence. keep it up man, looking great.

indeed. how do i go about figuring how much id need.

indeed, thanks yall for the help.

question here, now lets say since im building a new box with an mdf and glassed center console that will come all the way to my dash, would it screw my staging up if i mounted another pair of type r components in the console?

didnt think yall were talking about the lil cups, those seem like a waste for sure. and i dont have the whole door done, i will do that first, thats cheaper than doing the new components, actually i could go as far as dynamating th whole door and buying a second set of type r components for cheaper. and no i havent tried reversing the poliarity, what youre saying is that the plus and minus on the amps and speakers are irrelevant, it only comes down to what you hear./ i think i got it.

Youre saying seal them like those cheap lil things i see on ebay, the speaker cups or whatever SPP-514-DSF - A.I. Bass Boomer 5.25" / 6.5" Speaker Baffles those? damplifier is the same thing as my dynamat isint it? just curious, it seems to be. and youre saying to dynamat the whole door? would that include the backside of my door skin. BanginGMC, im reading that link now, thanks.

i was referring to the speaker wiring from the amp to my crossovers, i have 8 gauge wires to the amp. and to julian, idk what ib alignment is, they are in factory locations, not sealed and i do have dynamat xtreme around the speakers its cut into a square but its probably a good 3-4 inches to all sides of the 6.5

thanks for your quick reply, yeah ive messed with my high pass filter a shit ton, i guess i should have been a bit more specific here, on a rap or techno song, they sound ok. however on rock music or something similar it gets real muddy sounding, i cant really explain it any better than that, ive tried to run them with the high pass off and jsut on the full range setting but they seem to sound worse. i will probably re wire them again before i buy, but im certain they are in phase correctly. they guy at my shop reccomended me to run another 250 watt amp to have a total of two, one to each side, but that doesnt sound right to me, what would happen if i were to bridge the speakers on my current 250.2, or if thats not an option and they really do respond better to more power, should i run a 4ch amp and bridge the front and back channles and run them to their respective sides of the truck? thanks again. edit: how much does the gauge of the wire from amp to crossovers and crossovers to speakers effect midbass performance, i did notice he used a wire that i would have considered a bit small but again im no expert.

im currently running one set of alpine type r 6.5 components on a diamond d1 250.2 with a high pass filter on. now for a 300+ dollar set of speakers when i bought them i dont think they have any midbass at all, a few shops ive been to said that they are playing jsut fine but i guess that means i need to upgrade. im planning on scrapping my 4 diamond 10s in a sealed box and going with 2 fi bl 12s ported and tuned to 32hz, but i fear that ill have a big gap where my mids dont perform. what do yall suggest in the 300-400 price range i was looking at these ZRS-710KIT - ZRS SERIES - Cadence Acoustics, LTD because i heard a set of coaxial 6.5s in the same truck i have and they already had more midbass than my alpines, i figure a 7x10 CANT be worse. i have a 6x9 opening and it wont be all that bad to make these fit, however i dont know why theres two tweets in this setup and not a 4" driver, idk, im no expert. i would be running the same amp on them 250.2 with a high pass filter i appreciate any suggestions, thanks in advance.

welcome.

Nice intro, this guy's got class. Welcome to the forum! You should find what you're looking for here. Love the screen name BTW...LOL thanks for the warm welcome fellas.