stiffler style

Very informative rule of thumb, I would appreciate if you can explain why. Sorry op, not thread jacking or anything but I am sure you would also be curious to know. We're all here to learn anyways so I'm happy you asked. I'm curious as well.

thanks man yea i tried thier email but no response :[ yea i would buy from ssa if the price wasnt so high im buying a bunch and im a competitor so i have a ton of stuff i have all ready thrown money for on this hoping they can get back to me Buy what's in your budget then. I'd rather spend a little bit more money at ssa and support this company and forum than put money elsewhere.

Tech support is hit or miss. The guy or girl either knows and wants to help or they don't give a shit. Usually the latter unfortunately.

would http://www.ehow.com/...tput-cable.html be of any help? or http://www.meritline.com/hdmi-video-signal-to-hd-tv-conversion-adapter-usb-cable-for-ipad-2-iphone-ipod---p-83129.aspx

If I can fit large format then surely I can fit small format. Are there any t/s parameters I should specifically consider when looking at tweeters? If there are, what range of values should I look for? I would think fs would be important here as this has to meet up with a midbass.

If I am not mistaken Stefanhinote has a thread that is relevant to this topic. I'll see if I can find it. check page 3 of "how good is your port" and see if that helps you. Hopefully someone else can chime in. I would think m/s stands for meters per second. Do you mean "vent mach" not match?

+1 check monoprice. I've dealt with them before and overall was happy with my purchase.

I was kind of hoping there would be flexibility with the choice for 24db slopes too but I'll make due with what I have. So now that we've covered processing. What's the next step?

Clarion cz702 Straight from crutchfield. Time Alignment: select 0-501.4cm for Tweeter L/R, Midrange L/R, and Subwoofer L/R speakers Tweeter HPF: select cut-off frequency for high pass filter (25Hz/31.5Hz/40Hz/50Hz/63Hz/80Hz/100Hz/125Hz/160Hz/200Hz/250Hz/315Hz/400Hz/500Hz/630Hz/800Hz/1K/1.25K/1.6K/2K/2.5K/3.15K/4K/5K/6.3K/8K/10K/12.5K/16K/20K/Through), Slope (-6/-12 dB), Phase (normal/reverse) Midrange HPF/LPF: select cut-off frequency for the high pass filter (25Hz/31.5Hz/40Hz/50Hz/63Hz/80Hz/100Hz/125Hz/160Hz/200Hz/250Hz/315Hz/400Hz/500Hz/630Hz/800Hz/1K/1.25K/1.6K/2K/2.5K/3.15K/4K/5K/6.3K/8K/10K/Through), select cut-off frequency for low pass filter (630Hz/800Hz/1K/1.25K/1.6K/2K/2.5K/3.15K/4K/5K/6.3K/8K/10K/Through), Slope (-6/-12 dB), Phase (normal/reverse) Subwoofer LPF: select cut-off frequency for low pass filter (25Hz/31.5Hz/40Hz/50Hz/63Hz/80Hz/100Hz/125Hz/160Hz/200Hz/250Hz/315Hz/400Hz/500Hz/630Hz/800Hz/1K/1.25K/1.6K/2K/2.5K/3.15K/4K/5K/6.3K/8K/10K/Through), select cut-off frequency for the high pass filter (16Hz/20Hz/25Hz/31.5Hz/40Hz/50Hz/63Hz/80Hz/100Hz/125Hz/160Hz/200Hz/250Hz/Through), Slope (-6/-12 dB), Phase (normal/reverse) Speaker Gain: select -20 to 0dB for Tweeter, Midrange, and Subwoofer Should I look to decouple the speaker from the baffle as well?

That was pretty cool man!

It's not overwhelming. I didn't know how in depth it would be. I like the challenge. I have a active capable headunit (sub, mid, high) with time alignment and a 5 band parametric eq. Ib it is. I have an idea for the "baffle" for the midbass as well. I will make it out of mdf rings but mount it to some sort of insulation foam or something to decouple it from the inner door metal to reduce vibrations and then add a ton of mass to the baffle. How does that sound?

Is port area entirely dependent on intended tuning frequency and box volume after displacement?

I'll try to cover both comments in this post. First off, thanks for the help thus far. I definitely underestimated the amount of thought that is needed to make this work correctly. I'm not overly concerned with stage height or good imaging. I want midbass with authority (or as much authority as I can achieve). I have noticed that I do like the silk tweeters I have heard before. I also notice that I like the sound much better when the highs (I don't know what specific frequencies but mainly what it playing through a tweeter in a typical 3 way setup) are toned down from the rest of the music. Not necessarily bass heavy where you only hear the sub, but I feel like I can't stand to listen to screeching tweeters for more than 30 seconds. I did get the chance to listen to some midbasses with an aluminum or metal cone that I really liked the snappy midbass they gave. I haven't got the slightest clue as to what brand or anything about them other than I noticed the cone material and liked the sound. As far as processing, I'm not ready to take the plunge and shell out major money ($250>) for a processor. Is there a processor that is cheaper but would still help my situation? "Trying to build an enclosure in the door without modify the door card maybe difficult. I can not think of any reason why that would be beneficial either unless you built a ported enclosure." I'm not modifying the door card at all. I can modify the door with baffles and cutting metal and such. I've made some mock up baffles and have modified them to allow the door card to fit properly. I mentioned aperiodic vent because I could do something like make my baffle then lay a square (2-3" x 2-3"?) of fiberglass as a form of an aperiodic vent and add or remove layers depending on how it sounds. I've been reading about how this can be done to a smaller than ideal box to achieve a response similar to a ported box. It seems a bit complicated for me as I don't have a full grasp of what to do and I doubt I could make it work correctly. Maybe you have knowledge on what I rambling about? sorry I sound stuck on making the baffles sealed. I have been looking through madisound and parts-express at tweeters. I also mentioned that I could cut the mdf at a slope to help "aim" the tweeters (assuming they are in the door which is probable). So knowing that I like the top end toned down and less harsh, are your recommendations still the same? Tweeter and midbass, two-way? Large or small format tweeter? *Also, the stock tweeter is pretty small (like maybe an inch at most) and in the A-Pillar directly on axis.

What are your max dimensions for the box?

A large format tweeter would have to be mounted in the door. That spot would obviously be off-axis, however, I could fabricate baffles/pods for the tweeters if that is of any help to combat the off-axis response drop off. My headunit has a five-band parametric eq. Before driver displacement, I can get over 5 liters of volume in the midbass baffle. Still way too small? I could try aiming the tweeter/midrange/whatever speaker using mdf cut at a slant as well.

Use some calculators and make sure everything is set up right before you start cutting. You could even make the box in google sketch up (there are numerous videos on how to use sketch up) and put it on here and let more knowledgable people check it. All I really know of braces is using wooden dowels from home depot for bracing. Someone could chime in on that.

The gcon is a good sub

I know you said "for all kinds of music" but maybe some examples of the music you listen to will help the others help you.

The reason for low qts is that I haven't found really any decent midbasses with higher qts (.5 or so) yet. Most all midbass drivers I have looked at and people have used with success (similar goals/application) are lower qts (.3). I've got learning to do when it comes to looking and comparing raw drivers, but this is my start. So ib, or hard plastic cutting board if I can find a way to get a decent volume size to make it worth sealing the baffles? I've decided that I should do 2-way after what m5 and stef have told me. I want to keep the stock appearance as much as possible. What speakers would you recommend I consider or research for my application? I have my subs low passed at 90hz right now and am happy with that so I don't need a midbass to play much lower than that, if at all.

The sls's I have been looking at are 83mm deep. That would leave me enough room to seal off the back of the baffle with something thin. Hence, the plexiglass. I just don't know if the plexiglass is a good material choice. I'll have to measure it and see what volume I would be at with my idea. (I'll probably be at .1 cubic feet or right above that.) If .1 cubic feet is roughly correct, would it be a idea to try an aperiodic vent of some sort? Like the one on madisound.

I mean using plexiglass to turn the baffle into a sealed enclosure which would help a low qts midbass driver. Wouldn't deadening the inner door metal be what separates the front and back wave? Also, I've read and seen some graphs of using a sealed enclosure to counter the off-axis response of a tweeter/fullrange. I can always experiment. I have plenty of mass. This duct seal is hefty stuff and I have plenty of it. That with some mlv and I think I'll be good. I know I don't like metal or harsh tweeters. I will have to do what you said and narrow it down a bit more.

M5, What should I look for in a large format tweeter? Or is it going to really be trial and error? What do you think about using plexiglass to seal everything off, including the baffles? I really want to get the install right.

I really wanted to try to exodus anarchy's but they are too deep and I don't know if they are available anymore. The next widely used dedicated midbass was the sls so that's what I've been looking at lately. To be honest, I don't know yet. I can fit 2 mdf rings between the door panel and the sheet metal. I will cut a hole in the sheet metal inside the mdf ring opening then attach another mdf ring on the backside. There is a rather large slot hole in the middle of the door that I can fit the last ring through. If plexiglass will be sufficient I will use that to seal off the back of the "enclosure" however I would like the challenge of doing a more complex enclosure. Do you have a link to the fiberglass enclosure you mentioned? I've got experience will building carbon fiber parts for my dads racecar so I think I could make something out of fiberglass. I just need some ideas on how to go about it.

Yes, the speakers will be mounted to the mdf which will be mounted to the sheet metal. I'm definitely going to deaden the door as well as use plexiglass and silicon or liquid nails to cover the holes and cover the plexiglass with deadener. I've been in contact with sds a few weeks ago but he never responded so I will have to get on that again. I see your point about not needing a 3-way when a 2-way will work and be much more simple and I have seen some builds where people use a 6.5" and a 3" with no tweeter successfully (with the same goals as mine). It seems logical that I could do a 2-way and if need be add a tweeter later on. Most of the builds I've seen use the peerless sls 6.5" and pair it with the fountek (sp?) fr88 or fr89 3". If their goals are similar and their install is similar should I use that as a reference and try to replicate that since it worked for them? The sls has a low qts. That's suited for a sealed box correct? Which would correlate with why people saw better midbass after sealing the baffles instead of ib in the door. Just my thoughts for my now.

I thought install then find a speaker. As in the install is the most important part. Stef, I have been looking at some midbasses that I might consider and none of them work well in a two-way. Hence the 3-way I want. I know I'll be spending countless hours tweaking, but I've got plenty of time. It seems to be that you either get 2-way and decent midbass or 3-way with midbass with authority. I'm after the latter. I just had the mdf panels laid on the door panel to give people an idea of where the speakers are on the door and because I have to modify the rings to fit when the door panel is attached.