MarAha

Me and my cousin went to Audio Express. One of the most popular shops in Arizona. We asked them how much it would cost to make a box for my 1 12" Eclipse Titanium and they asked how big we want it. We said about 2.5 ft^3 vented at 32 hz and the guy started laughing and said "hahahahha...how many watts are you going to run to that? 25 watts? Anything more than that and the box will fall apart. Are you guys joking right now?" To this day, I'm still wondering why he would think that.

Few days ago I tested it at the battery with my car on and off: Off = 12.45v On = 14.73v Bass on full blast playing Jeezy - Hypnotize with car on = around 13.04v average I didn't check it at the amp or the alternator yet. Do I use the same setting on the dmm meter that I used at the battery? And can you explain real quick how to do that (black to what, red to what)? Should I also be doing this with my bass at full blast?

A few weeks ago, I noticed my sub randomly get quiet and loud back and forth ONLY while driving. When I'm at a red light or stopped for any reason, it plays a lot quieter than it should be (literally half the volume that it is when it's loud). When I accelerate, it goes back to normal temporarily. For a few days, it did the opposite. When I braked, it got loud, and when I accelerated it got quiet. This has been driving my crazy. I checked my wire connections at my amp and they were fine. I had autozone check my battery and alternator and they were good. I even checked the voltage myself on my battery and it was fine. They are both stock by the way. 1 more thing I noticed yesterday is my lights dimmed when I rolled up my power windows. It never did this before. I tried it again today and it did the same thing but didn't dim as much. Does this sound like it could be an amp problem to anybody? I can't figure it out.

smgreen20 and KU40...here's where my inexperience comes in car audio. I would think that since I'm trying to get the full range of frequencies, that means I'm trying to get better SQ except louder since I'm trying to get the 60hz to 100hz to come out loud from subs instead of midbass drivers. Can you explain why SQ would suffer? If anything, my actual plan is like this: Enclosure 1 - 20 or 30hz - to 60hz like my current setup Enclosure 2 - 60hz to 80 or 90hz I'd play with these settings on the amp with the HPF and LPF to see what sounds better but that's my general idea. And then have the midbass come in with other speakers after enclosure 2 cuts off at 80 or 90. Of course I'd never mix frequencies. I work with music and I know never to mix 2 bass lines together unless I cut off the frequencies from each bassline that they both have and would try to compete for. That's why I made this topic. Because knowing that as long as 2 systems don't play the same frequencies, why not put them together to get a full range and have it LOUD instead of having 1 and just using small midbass drivers that won't hit anywhere near as loud?

bromo, I can't even imagine any midbass drivers that would be as loud as the 2 12's hitting at the 60hz to 120hz that I mentioned. Although I obviously want the full spectrum in my car, I would like the 120hz and lower to be LOUD and the only way I can see that happening is having the 2 enclosures. Unless I can get subs that DO get a full range like lithium mentioned but what subs actually get that type of range? From the systems I've heard so far (remember, I'm still very new to all this stuff), I've only heard the systems getting the low range like mine does, or the midbass range like my friends does, never both.

Well without flaming lol, I hope someone can explain why this wouldn't work. I KNOW that if you mix 2 different ranges of frequencies, there will be no cancellation. So I don't see why this wouldn't be possible. I would just try it, but it would be such a waste of money and time if it ends up not working.

First, let me just say that I don’t know much about car audio. 95% of people on here would put me to shame so forgive me if what I’m asking is impossible. But I do know a fair bit about audio in general since I do a little mixing music on the side. So here’s what I’ve been recently thinking about… I have a system, with ONE 12” Eclipse Titanium in a ported box tuned to about 30hz. My sub hits the lows real good up until around 60hz, but doesn’t pick up anything above that. Check this link to hear what my system picks up (it’s a clip of a song that I filtered the music out of and just left the bass that my sub picks up…you may not be able to hear it on your computer speakers unless you got a decent sub): http://p.n.p.t.aimini.net/download/?fid=tpnPw9lAGpoqldLkqGYB 1 of my friends has TWO 12” L7s in a ported box tuned to god knows what. He just paid someone to “put in a loud system” and didn’t ask any questions. His actually hits at the 60hz to 120hz, but literally picks up nothing under 60Hz. Basically, when he plays Late Night Tip (since almost everyone knows that), you pretty much only hear the kicks and midbass. It's in a pretty small box too. I'd say MAX 3cuft total for both subs which I was surprised about Check this link to hear what his picks up (same song as the first clip, but from 60hz to 120hz): http://f.o.9.5.aimini.net/download/?fid=59ofosT0Z5Oro6aulO91 So basically, we got 2 completely different sounds bass-wise. And I was thinking, why can’t I put 2 systems like that together to make 1 big beast and have it play like this?: http://u.b.d.y.aimini.net/download/?fid=ydBuw511vvZSpUngQpSz Now I see a lot of people say “there will be cancellation” when you put different subs or speakers in different boxes and everything together in 1 car, but from my mixing knowledge, a sub that hits from 60Hz and lower, mixed with a sub that hits from 60hz to 120hz, would have no cancellation since they both pick up different frequencies. I know it requires some work to get the frequencies set right but is there any reason why this wouldn’t be possible? If it’s possible, I’m honestly thinking about putting together a system like this by the end of this year and I would like everybody’s help on here, with money not being an issue if I decide to do this. I know that you can get components that pick up bass in this range but my goal is to have this range hit real loud like the L7s do. So to summarize, 2 enclosures in 1 car. 1 hits the midbass, and 1 hits the lower bass. These numbers are just approximations by the way. And if I’m not allowed to put clips of audio files, please let me know and I’ll edit this post.

yea the "HC" my cousin has doesnt have the RE logo and its not a "boob" cone. it looks just like the picture i put in my first post but that picture is an SX

he bought it used off ebay and on the cone it has the logo that says "RE", not the other logo. it pretty much looks just like this: so i'm THINKING it might be an SX but i'm not sure...is there any way to find out without having to send it in to RE and ask them?

thats your opinion....if somebody cant help then its pointless for them to reply

people gotta understand that thats what ALOT of people want when they get a system everybody sayin "its pointless trying to get loud outside" is just wasting their time. he wanna get loud, help him or dont say nothin at all. (not directed at you vladd but at the other people that are about to go against what pimpedout97x wants) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> the people who want a system to be heard down the block are compensating for either a lack of intelligence or a lack of penis size have some respect for the other people on the road who dont want to hear your music <{POST_SNAPBACK}> thats probably 75% of the people with a system....thats the truth. thats what people want so like i said either help them or dont say anything. waste of everybodys time by sayin "its stupid"

people gotta understand that thats what ALOT of people want when they get a system everybody sayin "its pointless trying to get loud outside" is just wasting their time. he wanna get loud, help him or dont say nothin at all. (not directed at you vladd but at the other people that are about to go against what pimpedout97x wants)

i just found that tutorial...only problem is i dont have a DMM to try anything

i was messin with the settings last night, and i put the remote bass all the way down, but the gain on the back of the amp is still all the way up. that's the ONLY thing that's up. the bass on my HU is set at -15. and the only reason i ask why my system isnt loud outside of the car is cause i see people with subs that dont even compare to a 12" titanium that hit harder. common sense would tell me if they get THAT loud on the outside of the car, then they really loud on the inside

now what can i do about the rattling? i see people say dynamat is just bull...but let me know if it actually works if there is a cheaper way, id rather have that i dont wanna be spending too much money anymore also, since im new to this whole thing...i need to know what volumes are safe to be playing this sub at. i got the remote bass set halfway, the back of the amp's gain all the way up, i got my HU's sub setting to -15. it gets loud inside at volume 30 (out of 100, i got a pioneer deh-p680mp), but on the outside you cant hear it much. but when i put it up to around 45 it gets loud outside too. honestly though, i want it LOUDER (both inside and out) but i dont know if it'll be safe for the sub to put the volume up