AllenH427

Awesome man!! My 220 gave my a hugeeee voltage increase. Before I'd drop below 12.0V with No Hands in a matter of 15 seconds. Now, I can play this whole song without going below 13.1V.

Shoot, pretty steep increase.

Nathan, could you chime in on this. How would 2 Deka 9a31s compare to 1 XS D3100? I heard the D3100 will stand up to both Dekas combined. Can you comment on this? I'm sure the OP would like to know as well, could save weight or give a big boost in power.

I second Alpine's SPX-13/17REF series. I run them as well, in my opinion can't be beat for the price. They get loud, and sound excellent. The tweeter is worth mentioning, has a nice warm smooth sound to it.

220A installed in an 02 Camry with adjustable voltage boost module. I start cold at 15.1, then drive at 14.8-14.9.

Some people said this but didn't make it quite clear. A bass knob is different than a remote gain. A bass knob just adds bass boost and ends up clipping the signal easily. A remote gain is used basically just adjust the gain on the fly. As far as bass knobs, I'm not sure if it matters where you set the knob BEFORE you plug it in. I don't think it should matter though. As far as the remote gain, such as on AQ or DC amps, whether is maxed or at the minimum level before you plug it in, it will not make a difference, just make sure you set the gain with it plugged in around the 75% mark.

Thanks guys. Lol, the camera is just your standard I think Samsung camera, I just prettied up the pics with some editing

Price is a little steep buddy

Are you American? If so, invest the money into our own economy, and get a far better built product, go SSA or Fi. I run Fi so I'll recommend them, but either sub will do. SSA is geared towards more SQ, they are no slouch when it comes to getting loud though. Fi is more about getting loud but they also sound pleasant, especially compared to other SPL geared subwoofers out there.

Seal it off with expanding foam, you'll be thankful. Let's go through my history: My first subs in a sealed prefab box, fired to the rear they hit lows much better, but lost a lot of the high end bass. Flipped them to fire forward (not sealed like you) and they hit the higher bass much better but lost all of the lows. Second subs only did one orientation, don't worry about this setup. My btls, fired forward without sealing, didn't quite nail the lows as I expected and the higher bass was not audible. Sealed it off with expanding foam, hits every frequency nice and smooth, a lot louder to the ear, smashes the lows. You need to seal it off to make the flip worth while.

I'm very familiar with bass race, but what is bass boxing?

Audioque without a doubt

My car's lights/glasses compartment fell down (the clips snapped.) I was thinking about using super glue to connect (fabirc and plastic) but I'm afraid the heat will melt the glue and make it not work, any ideas?

Rewound alts usually don't put crap at idle, on top of they are unreliable. Now, if yours is say a Mechman or DC alt, 220A will be fine with 2 XS D3100s or 2 similar group 31 batteries (except not much is comparable to XS performance.)

That 6" port looks to be damn near the size of that 10" BTL ... I am assuming 10" .... Nope, 12" BTLs are the smallest size available. LOL everyone thinks it looks bigger than a 6" aero so don't feel bad, just an illusion. Update, just got my highest meter score of 144.0 legal, 145.0 outlaw. With more testing, I'm sure I could push a 145.7-145.8 outlaw. I tried a trunk open run, vs a trunk sealed run and there wasn't even a tenth difference, sounds like I did a pretty damn good job sealing the box off from the trunk I tried bass racing a 39.9 and found I can do it, I just HAVE to have a good start. First try bass racing it got a 39.8, second try 39.9, third try I held a 39.9 for 6 seconds and at the very last second busted over to a 140.0. A year ago I metered my old SDCs hoping I'd break a 140.0, but only got around a 138. My goal was to break the 140.0 with my next build, looks like I killed it.

Well, just wrapped up a pretty decent showing at Slamology. Dbdrag in a trunk sucks but I did bring my strength in Bass Race to the lanes. I decided to run Street C for Dbdrag and ended up coming in 3rd with a 143.4db. For bass race, I took home 1st in the 129.9 class! I have yet to do a legit meter of me inside my car with my new alt for the SSNW class, but outside my car I snagged a 143.8, and I'll probably do a mid 144 when I sit inside it. Anyways, I made a flex vid with my phone of the low meter score, but ear damaging BTLs. Also, I have a Crescendo XST2s distance test off an Arc Audio FD2100.

Looks like the Gen 1 BTL with the double slug motor. PC and PW are probably upgrades.

Cool

His diagram pretty much sums it up. Assuming they are all AGM batteries, or at least batteries of the same chemistry, you can just wire them all in parallel. Connecting all of the positives together and then connecting all of the negatives together will wire them in parallel and pull from each battery just about equally, so really, you could hook up your amps to any single battery in the car and it will pull from all 3. To hook up the alternator, pretty easy, just hook up the positive from the alt to the positive on the front battery, but don't forget to fuse that wire, it's crucial you do. If it has a negative spot on the casing, just connect the negative on the casing to the negative on the same from battery. As far as hooking up batteries, the same general rule of thumb applies. Ground off first, ground on last. Meaning, to hook up your alt, make sure all of your batteries are disconnected, even disconnect the positives just to be sure. The reconnect all of the positives, the connect the front battery ground, then connect the rear battery grounds.

I'll be one to comment on my personal experience with Mechman. Ordering my alt was simple, emailed them, got some prices, called them up, on my first phone call I was able to place my order. My alt came in a timely manner, I think 4 days. I was having a few problems hooking it up (ALL WERE FROM MY ROOKIE MISTAKES,) every single time I called, Matt answered and was very patient on the phone with me until I got my problem fixed. The AVBM is awesome and very handy for changing your voltage on the fly, such as in the lanes or driving on a long road trip. The quality of the product is fantastic, but you can expect that from either DC or Mechman. Due to my experience with Matt being a loyal producer to the consumer because I was a rookie, he has a life-long customer here.

Instead of trying to figure out what you did wrong, I'm just going to tell you how to do it right. The harness on your headunit has a remote wire, it's blue: Take a small 18awg wire and connect it to the remote wire on your headunit harness. Now, run that small 18awg wire all the way back to your AQ 3500.1 in the REMOTE TURN ON part of the amplifier, between one of the inputs postive and negative. Now you can do two different things here for your voltmeter: A. Along some part of that 18awg wire, cut it, then take another small 18awg wire, connect the cut ends and the new 18awg wire and run the new 18wire to your voltmeter. B. Take a new 18awg wire, also put it in the REMOTE TURN ON part of the amplifier, and run it all the way to the voltmeter. For the power and ground of your voltmeter, you can hook it up to one of your batteries, or take two more small 18awg wires and put on from the + on the voltmeter into one of the +s on the amp, and put a 18awg from the - on the amp to the - on the voltmeter. We have the exact same setup, same amp, same voltmeter, same amount of batteries. EDIT** STOP TOUCHING THE FREAKING POWER ANTENNA WIRE.

Nope its a 6", LOL and I'll save you the effort, yeah it's a hair on the small side for my 4.2 cube box.

I recently clamped my amp for my two BTL N2s, impedance started at .7 (no box rise ftw) and ended up at 4.5 ohms!! That's a huge jump. Dr. Boom also has bad impedance rise, he's only getting 5k out of his 6 SAZ-3500s. Maybe it's just coincidence but I was comparing the BTLs specs to other subwoofers specs and BTLs have a much lower Qes that any other I seen. They still get extremely loud on low power so maybe they are very efficient due to low Qes. Can anyone chime in? Oh, box for mine is 4.2 cubes, 33hz, single 6" aero. Dr Booms, dont know volume, but tuned to 33hz also.

Yes, less port area causes higher rise. Smaller enclosure also reduces impedance rise.

LOL, if you sat in it, oh lord. And Dr. Boom has the ferrites. It's hard to tell, I wonder what Qes actually affects.