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tez4life

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Posts posted by tez4life

  2. Posted

    the difference is in the EQ the ".2" has WAY more features that can come in handy if you want to upgrade later... like upgrading your components from passive to active cause it has built in xovers the ".1" only has it for the sub i believe... im sure you can find one on Ebay for cheap

    you'd have to bypass the factory amp and convert the signal into RCA like what stevesan is saying... but i doubt it would sound good, my best bet would to look on ebay for either .1 or .2

    x2 on this as well. It sounds like you have a very nice OEM HU and are just trying to upgrade within you budget. The LOC you mention from Walmart is a good cheap alternative for people who have basic OEM HUs in there cars, but I def would not recommend that for you. The Rockford will give you much more options for adjusting the system, (esp handy if later down the line you upgrade your front speakers and amp them) as well as giving you much better sound quality.

    Trust me, ive installed plenty of those LOC, and they get the job done, but thats it. Plus, it may not even work with your HU.

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  3. Posted

    Personally, I would run the 2 amps strapped at 2 ohm, you may get more output from them like that but im not completely sure. It makes for a easier install, because you only have to adjust one amp settings for you subs, (the other amp being in slave mode). Im pretty sure its going to put out more power.

    And as a side note, thats going to be nucking futs!!

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  5. Posted

    Now I may be getting too big for my britches...but I swear I could fit 3 18's in there sealed in 4ft each with ease now that I have the back seat out. Hrmm..maybe I just go ported with the two. I really wanted to try sealed though...who knows.

    Here's my progress today:

    before:

    truck001mn4.jpg

    and after more work than a back seat should take, never mind the spaghetti on the floor, just look at all that wide open space to use. And yes that is a temp tag in the window still :/

    truck002ga9.jpg

    Thats a fair amout of area, if the 18s are like the other RLP, they will sound great sealed and really shine ported. I say stick with the pair, and if you have the room go ported, if not stick to sealed. It will sound good and be loud either way!!

    BTW, I am so looking foward to this build very jealous!!

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  8. Posted

    Nice, glad you enjoying the subs. Looks like they get down pretty well from the vids you took, they def look loud!!

    can't get any new vids been cold and rainning :angry2:

    Its cool I had a set of the old Assassins, was planning to upgrade to the Arsenals at some point but company took a break for a min. Thanks for the review, im really considering those Havocs now!!

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  11. Posted

    What kind of car is this in? Personally, I would just Dymanatt the rear deck to stop the rattles and leave those rear speakers holes on the deck open. It will allow more output from you sub into the car.

    Will it make a difference? Hard to say, every car is different. My Crown Vic had a similar issue when I had my rear speakers in place, removing them and just running front stage, released some of that "bottled up" pressure in my trunk and gave me alot more output inside my cabin. But, my seats dont fold down.

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  15. Posted

    Mike, im really sorry to hear about recent events. I apperciate all the advice you gave me over the last year or so. Soundsplinter was one of the first ''internet based'' companies that I had every heard about. The rep you established with your subs and your outstanding customer service is very well known. I dont think the price jump is that bad, I mean look at the difference with TC Sounds subs and REs compared to a year or too ago.

    The only regret I have is that I didnt have the money to purchase a brand new pair of RLP 15s from you recently. I have the used one, but I may just save that for some home theater use, and save my pennies and get the real thing.

    Outstanding products and great customer service will always outshine any trouble times ahead, def consider me a fanboi!! :thanx::thanx:

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  20. Posted

    Those are some good numbers period. How is it liking that 34hz tune, I know you mention somewhere you wished it could be a lil lower. Is it still grabbing those low notes pretty well?

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  21. Posted

    I think im going to consider what you mention about the sealed box idea. Im not in a serious hurry to mount it and let it rip, just wanted to run it for a min while im getting the rest of my system together. I think im going to go with a 30hz tune, should not hurt me too much on the high end, but still give me that low punch I seek. And your absolutely right about " good output " being selective. Tring to do something that will have sufficent output for me, but more that anything, it has to sound good PERIOD.

    The RLP is one of the reasons I got on this forum in the first place, just figured that you guys had far more experence with it and wanted another opinion.

    BTW, thats for that advice on my other thread, Im going fully active with the mids in lower doors (2) and the tweeter mounted up higher.

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  22. Posted

    Recently purchased a used RLP 15, and have my eye on another one online. I have a friend whos going to build me a nice ported box for the subs, but until I can get the rest of the money for that, I wanted to try it sealed based on the reviews I have heard. I have a sealed box I had a pair of Kicker Comp VRs in but heres my question. The box is only 1.95 cubic feet per chamber, ( suppose to be 2.0 but is off just a lil bit) I know the displacement of the RLP 15 is 0.18 cubic feet, would I be choking the sub in that box? I thought about inverting it, to save on some space inside the box. This would only be a temp install until I can get my ported box completed.

    Also, im going for 3.5 cubic feet per chamber, but whats a good tune? I really like my low end, and I have heard many ported boxes but personally never owned on, and im trying to get it right the first time. I thought about 28hz, but would my high end suffer? I was also told 32hz was good for output, but I still want to have a mean low end. Would 30hz be a good compromise? Thanks

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  24. Posted

    This sounds like a similar problem I had in my 04 Ford Crown Vic. I had a decent stock HU and steering wheel controls that I wanted to retain.

    I picked up a SCOSCHE LOC and wired it up behind my HU and ran a set of RCAs to my amp in the rear (MTX 342). The LOC had outputs for 2 sets of RCAs but I only used one set. I had to turn the gain on the Mtx almost all the way up to get any decent output out of my mids and high as well as crank the HU almost all the way up.

    The amps tended to overheat because the gains were so high, but it was the only way to get any real sound from it. Those MTX Thunder series amp tended to like a higher voltage signal through the RCAs (4 volts or more) and my LOC could only supply 2 volts max. I purchased a Audiocontrol Four1 EQ/linedriver and completly solved my problem. The higher signal from the Audiocontrol was exactly what the Mtx wanted and the system sounded so much stronger and clearer. Never had a overheating issue from it again either.

    A linedriver may solve your output issue, but that still leaves your noise problem. Im sure you have checked all you gains already, but what LOC from Stinger did you use? Not every LOC can be used with every car, some cars stock systems can conflict or even not work unless you have the correct one for that car. Whats all this installed in?

    Thanks for the reply. I don't remember which particular LOC it was. I do know that it is for a FORD though. The install is for an 07' Ford Edge. I will talk to my friend later this week and see when she can go the linedriver route. I emailed ZED awhile ago and hoping to get a reply from Steve on this issue. I hope this fixes things. :drink40:

    Sure man, no problem. I hate it when its something small keeping ya enjoying your sounds. Hope you get it fix soon!

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  25. Posted

    This sounds like a similar problem I had in my 04 Ford Crown Vic. I had a decent stock HU and steering wheel controls that I wanted to retain.

    I picked up a SCOSCHE LOC and wired it up behind my HU and ran a set of RCAs to my amp in the rear (MTX 342). The LOC had outputs for 2 sets of RCAs but I only used one set. I had to turn the gain on the Mtx almost all the way up to get any decent output out of my mids and high as well as crank the HU almost all the way up.

    The amps tended to overheat because the gains were so high, but it was the only way to get any real sound from it. Those MTX Thunder series amp tended to like a higher voltage signal through the RCAs (4 volts or more) and my LOC could only supply 2 volts max. I purchased a Audiocontrol Four1 EQ/linedriver and completly solved my problem. The higher signal from the Audiocontrol was exactly what the Mtx wanted and the system sounded so much stronger and clearer. Never had a overheating issue from it again either.

    A linedriver may solve your output issue, but that still leaves your noise problem. Im sure you have checked all you gains already, but what LOC from Stinger did you use? Not every LOC can be used with every car, some cars stock systems can conflict or even not work unless you have the correct one for that car. Whats all this installed in?

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