edouble101

Thanks for the comments. I like to hear everybody's thoughts! I am running a ground and power under the car. My original plan wad to use conduit. It hung lower than I expected so on to plan B. I am trying to go through the "frame" rails. I am on my way to Lowes to get some grommets and a steel fish. I hope this works out well.

Nice box build

A little bit of progress today I am making a huge deal out of a couple wires.......I know. I finally have my underhood fuse locations figured out. My goal was to have no wire strains (ie. bends) going into the fuse holders and to have them securely mounted. My first attempt looked good on paper but after I built it it wasn't good enough. I had a lot of strain on the wire going into and out of the fuse holders <---- exactly what I did not want. It turned out looking fairly decent but was not up to par functionally for me. Second attempt turned out fairly decent. No wire strains go into or out of either fuse holder <------ I was also able to eliminate 30" of charge wire in the process!!! I rerouted the charge wire to behind the air intake and fabbed up two aluminum brackets. One bracket to support the charge wire and another bracket to hold the fuse holder. I had covered each aluminum bracket with some spare Thermo-Tec that I had from my ZX10R track bike build. I used Thermo-Tec on the fuse holder bracket because the bracket is above the exhaust manifold. Heat probably will not be an issue but I figured it wouldn't hurt. before For the fuse holder on the run of 1/0 to the trunk I fabbed up a bracket out of acrylic. Looks half decent and I do not have any strains on the wire running into and out of the holder The wire will run out of the holder and between the factory fuse box and air box. One more pic What do you all think?

Thanks polkfan. One of my goals is for this install to be clean and tidy I am going to make a plastic base to hold the charging fuse holder and the auxiliary fuse holder for the run to the battery in the trunk. I am anxious to see how that turns out.

Not much of an update today. I installed a fused charge wire. I decided to run the wire on top of the engine bay because I think it will stay cleaner and will be more protected. I was planning on fabricating a bracket to hold the fuse holder. After an hour of looking at placement options for the fuse holder I realized that there was basically not a good spot for what I wanted to do. My biggest goal with finding a fuse holder placement was to minimize any bends going into and out of the holder and to have it near the battery. I decided on a location on top of the battery, this may change.

There are a bunch of hardcore SQ guys on the board. They know their chit but if you don't dot your "i's" and cross your "t's" they will bite your head off lol. Good luck with that. If you stick your speakers behind door cards that will probably be the biggest hinderance for your sound stage. So a bare minimum you need to build door pods. I think the the kick panel is generally a good location for speaker placement. But.... Do you have a big honking center consule? If so kicks might not be good for you then. Get them tweeters above the dash and don't forget your dash mat With proper set up a good eq can really help to get your stage location dialed in. Which eq do you plan on using? You have a big cab, big dash. Have you thought about HLCD's?

Thanks! The link to your van build log doesnt work Thanks, it will have to hold me over for a while.

I have limited time so thats all I have for now!!!!! 3KWP :woot: :woot: :woot:

My power wire under the hood and runs to the trunk are 1/0 Singer HPM. I use copper 5/16 ring terminals. All wires are protected by braided sleeving PET. I use black PET and black heat shrink for ground wires and red PET and red heat shrink for power wires. All ring terminals are soldered with silver and flux then crimped with a hydraulic crimper. I use heat shrink adhesive between the heat shrink and PET. PET

Installing a D3400 under the hood. And upgrading some ground wires. Before: After: Upgraded the ground wire under the battery tray. Before: After: Ground on left side of engine. The factory ground ran from the top of the engine mount to the inside of the frame rail. There was no clearance at this location for my 1/0 wire so I mounted to the strut tower. Ground from battery to driver's side strut tower.

Mounting the XCON : 1/4-20 bolts and screw-in wood fasteners which I also glued in. I wanted to try this method......it works just use extreme caution. I decided to use close cell foam for a gasket instead of the supplied rubber gasket. Making a hole punch for the foam.

I had an 06' with two twelves. The box measured approx: 34-1/8"W x 14-7/8"H x 16-1/2"D1 (top) x 11-1/2"D2 (bottom), D1 and D2 are the angled dimensions. Internal approx 2.5 cf. I do not have any pics. The car was slow as molasses. I had the car for 2 months then traded it in for a RSX-S. All I can tell you is that the dimensions I gave you fit the 06' Civic.

Different slug, different back plate (of course), different coil, different pole, yadda yadda you get the point. The cooling, which we can get into more later down the road, is different as it forces more air over the coil and not out the back of a pole vent. The reason for the hard cap on the Zcon is that it has the solid pole piece causing a great deal of air pressure behind the cone that would be too great for the "Xcon/Icon" dust cap. The Zcon does not have a shorting ring, as inductance in this market segment is not as paramount as it is in the SuperSub realm that the Xcon resides in. A challenge for us is to help people, who are interested in our drivers to understand the design and intent differences between the Xcon and Zcon. Maybe I will need to make a topic about that in the near future to help clear up any possible confusion. I understand the new design much better now. I think an in-depth product line comparison thread would be great!

How are you cooling the voice coil? I was expecting to see an aluminum spacer or something. Just looks like a double stacked magnet when compared to an XCON. I am excited to hear more about it.

That car is very nice

You dont have to run a negative line from the front battery to the back. Just ground both bats to the frame (preferably sanded down to bare metal). As for the distribution block I think it would be easier to just ground both amps seperate and save the money the distribution block will cost for something else. I would think having multiple amplifier grounding points could cause a ground loop. I run a negative write from battery to battery as well. I also wire amplifiers directly to battery. Ground rear battery to chassis.

Thanks for your knowledgable input Impious. Maybe you could help me with my install, seriously. Excpect a PM

I'm not sure sure about that a lower gain setting provides more headroom. Simply because the gain knob is just for level matching. But if you can provide a link to the article I'll happily read it Proper setting will give you more amplifier headroom than if you had the gain setting mismatched. This doesnt make the amplifier make for power. You guys really need to rely on the internets for simple searches for information such as this. Research the topic from numerous reputable sources. Remember what may work for somebody else may not work for your equipment in your vehicle. <---- This is one reason you have to gather your information for multiple resources. Then come to your own conclusion. You can then apply your newly found knowledge to your situation and needs. What I say may not be true (I am only a machinist not an installer) that is why you need to research it and come up with your own opinion.... geez lol This was a quick search <5 minutes Level Setting by Richard Clark RaneNote - Setting Sound System Level Controls Amplifier Gain Controls by Eddie Runner SSA!!! Amplifier gains and preouts Head Unit Features carstereo.com - Read about RCA outputs Not all of it may apply to this topic but there are tid bits within the links that do. I have a beer exchange to go to now. I dont know what it is but it is all about beer

Hey thanks for explaining that to me. I understand much better, it makes sense too. Where can I find more detailed infromation about this, do you know? I understand what your saying, I would just like to read up on it, to burn time @ work, and learn a little bit lol. Check out David Navone and Richard Clarks's tech pages. Most of them are viewable online, I can't remember where. Maybe carsound or speakerworks. Also alot of info by doing a Google search.

Higher voltage HU's allow amplifier gain settings to be adjusted lower which will allow more amplifier headroom. If you have a strong input signal you can set your gain lower than if your input signal was weak. A lower gain setting allows for more dynamic headroom. What this means is that the amplifier can produce a cleaner output signal without clipping. Music has peaks and dips some peaks can be +3db stronger than others (0db signal). That 3db signal requires the amplifier to work much harder than baseline; often this is where clipping occurs. Just my very brief comment on a complicated subject.

You would have to drop the oil pan anyways to clear any shavings out. That's the time consuming expensive part if you have a shop do it. More than likely a crossmember is prohibiting the pan from easily being removed. Might not be an issue but it normally is.

Nice selection of tools you have there!! I am a tool junkie Good job with your router! Hmmmm....... Your sub enclosure looks awfully tight for those 15's. Resin, bracing and 45's can east a lot of space in an already tight box. Your ports look very close to the walls which may affect your tuning frequency. Hope your subs do not get choked with your box and a solid 3000wrms. You say your alt is running at 15.6v? That is way too high for those XS Power batteries. They insist that 14.7v max to insure battery longevity and performance. Did you check into that? At max current draw you might be approaching 900-1000 amps. You have two runs of 1/0 positive front to rear? If so that might not be adequate for your systems power demands. I would do four runs each of 1/0 positive and negative minimum. I am tuned in! Good luck man!

I keep reading tid bits of a SSA +1750wrms subwoofer in the works....

In dollars or levs? So what is the total cost of this project using these products?