edouble101

Very interesting, thanks for posting!

Keep us posted. I hope your install turns out great!

Do you have the sub wired up? How does it sound?

I am curious... I work for GE Aviation. Not too sure where you are going with that comment. Oops... Forgot the "LOL" ... lol

I am curious... I work for GE Aviation. Not too sure where you are going with that comment.

Awesome! I am very excited to hear abut new SSA products. Can you give us any more information on this new design?

I realize that the xcon is rated for 1750wrms. My question was for upcoming an design for a +1750wrms subwoofer.

I will be installing a budget audio system in my 2008 Hyundai Elantra four door. I will be running a three way front stage. I am using Viper Audio 650.2 passive component set. They are metal dome tweeters with 6.5" midrange and crossovers. The tweets are harsh and the 6.5's lack midbass. I picked them up bnib cheap.... I will be using a Boss REV-665 four channel for power. Again got the amp cheap..... Channel 1&2 for the component set and channel 3&4 for 6.5" woofers. Mounting: tweeters in A-pillars aimed at each other, 6.5's midrange in custom kick panels aimed at dome light, 6.5 woofer in bottom of front doors mounted behind factory door panels and aimed at each other. Fyi...for sub bass I am using an XCON 15...head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X994....no external eq I will run the Viper 650.2 passive with the supplied crossovers and possibly have the amp set as a HPF for channel 1&2 (I have to look at the HPF crossover freq). The 6.5 door mounted woofers will need a bandpass signal. I am using a Crescendo 3kwp to power the XCON (please no bashing, I know it is overpowered), I can get a lowpass signal from it for the XCON. Questions: Which 6.5" woofer/midbass will be best for my setup? It will be powered with 85wrms. I am thinking about using an AudioControl 6XS for crossover duties.

I am happy to see somebody is pleased with DC Power. I am expecting a 270XP as well......

Unfortunately that is the components set that I have and I want to make the best of it. I really want HLCD's but that definitely isn't in my budget any longer!

I didn't think about that yet.

Do you know where I can get information on the AA carbons? I am looking at a Peerless 6.5" and a Scan-speak 8". I have plenty of time to decide. i will be getting some t/s specs sent to my in my email that I can forward you or see If I can give them to a Mod on here to post and sticky if Fi/AA allows it. Thanks for the link but I am going to pass on these for now. Not much more! I am not planning on buying any additional amplifiers. I plan on using the Boss for the front stage. I am digging the Scan-speak 92db sensitivity!

Do you know where I can get information on the AA carbons? I am looking at a Peerless 6.5" and a Scan-speak 8". I have plenty of time to decide.

Yes I am seeking a more pronounced midbass. I am not convinced that it takes certain sized drivers to produce certain frequences. More research...... For conveince in mounting a 6.5" driver would be best for my application but I suppose I could get more output with a larger driver such as an 8".

Uhhhh.....mmm.....what? Lol Maybe I didn't write this thread clearly. I am seeking a three way setup for my front stage. - tweeter for high pass - midrange for midrange frequencies - woofer for mid bass frequencies I am thinking about using a 6.5" woofer simply to ease mounting and lower cost. Which 6.5" woofer do you recommend for my setup?

I could use 8's if that would ultimately be better. What is wrong with a 6.5" midrange used with a 6.5" woofer. Crossed over at different frequencies obviously.

I could use 2 ohm 6.5's as well for more power from the amp.

From what I have seen an SAZ-1200 will power 2 SA-8's just fine. I would stay at a bridged +4 ohm load though.

Upgrading your starting battery and the big 3 will help. Ultimately adding any additional batteries will increase the load on your alternator that will already be taxed due to the power retirements of a large amplifier. If you are easy on the volume knob you might be fine, really depends on your listening taste. I am 99.99% sure you would need an alternator made for your vehicle. I highly doubt somebody has one stocked on the shelf. This is a new model car and probably not too popular with audio enthusiasts.

Good job on everything! Clean install and great fabrication is a win in my book!

I would start by checking your gain levels. Are the AA's correctly wired? You might have them wired to a low impedance at the amp causing them to be driven by too much power. Or you could be simply putting too much power to them and are overpowering them. Possibly the Alpines could handle it but the AA's can not.

These are my favorite

The most secure method is to use grade 8 bolts mounted from inside the box directly through the vehicles body. A less abrasive method is to frame out your box in 2x4's that are mounted to the vehicle. I have heard of "L" brackets commonly being used. Maybe for a tiny enclosure or for a few circumstances where a box is pinned inside a vehicle but this is not the most secure method. There are numerous methods for securing an enclosure. Use the one that best fits your vehicle. You are not just preventing theft but you are keeping a 100+ pound box from flying through your vehicle in a sudden impact accident.

Which one of these two options is best and why? 1. 2.

Yes. I was just wondering if the negative and positive leads going from the amplifier to one negative and one positive on opposite vc is better than connecting the leads to the same vc. I am having a difficult time explaining it that is why I posted pictures. Thanks for the replies. I always wired as #2 but I am recently seeing #1 as a popular wiring method.