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SubSam

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Posts posted by SubSam

  1. Posted

    Let's make a nasty 12 out of it. Doesn't really call for much space. I might want to run two of them and get my amp modded to a 4k =]

    I always wanted twin BTL twelves, perfect sleeper system. "what's that fi garbage bro? haha I got two BOSS 12's that will beat those!"

    Then feed them 5k to the dome :D

    1464694_913896841416_1723163440_n.jpg?oh

    Perfect sleeper system you say ;)

    These are N2s, had every other version besides N3. They are all good at pounding the lows

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  2. Posted

    I've had AA Mayhems, and SSA Xcons. Both are the definition of solid. Those would do just fine for you. I've been wanting to get my hands on zcons, the ts parameters seem too good to be true. Those are viable options in that category

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  7. Posted

    ^^^ some nice guys on here pointing you in a good direction. I'm glad I'm not the only one willing to CAD up a free design to a fellow basshead. As far as your question goes, with more cone area you will get louder but sacrifice space. If you get more cone area and end up with a total Vas about the same as you started with then you will get louder without losing space. In order to do so you must either go down in woofer size (like 6 8" ers) or stiffer cones (like going from one SSD 12 to two N3 12s).

    But you should try and maximize ur current setup first. Then try an upgrade after. You may already have what ur lookin for.

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  8. Posted

    You CAN build the box inside the trunk... I was planning on going with three N212s in six cubes from the trunk but there's no BtLs anymore :( looks like I gotta find a motor on **** and build one myself (again lol)

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  9. Posted · Edited by SubSam

    I'm sorry (dunno why I'm apologizing) but I'm with M5 on this one. SQ is not objective first off, and its judged by ppl who KNOW what SQ sounds like. Im sorry but youre looking for the wrong things. I personally guarantee you (and most of you others) that you don't know what SQ sounds like and would never ever ever ever be willing to sacrifice a bigass expensive woofer like a Q12 for that purpose if you knew. X10 maybe. For any amount of real power, BL all the way. TS specs muddy under thermal duress anyways. Not that most wouldn't be equally happy with one or the other, or could even tell the difference lol.

    Now I've owned a triple stack Q15 for daily and a plug mag Q12 also for daily. I had SPL BL 12s for SPL (duh) and a BL 15 for bassrace. I now run two BtL N2 12s for daily and bassrace. That's post army, I ran rockford Hx2s and TRFs mostly from 96 and on, with some random JLs and kickers and Soundstream mixed in. I've installed every brand of woofer except DLS and Ground Zero, in most configurations and sizes. With any brand, individual model, size, and power class, you can just as easily have a good result as a bad one, if you are a half-assed type of person. Chances are you couldn't guess the brand of any subwoofer if you were to only hear it playing, so how different can they really be? Obviously there's variability in construction quality, so it makes sense to choose consistent brands like Fi/SSA.

    Somebody even said you really don't know until you hear it, which is true for 99.9% of car audio. But its up to you to DESIGN the system correctly around the equipment and the space available, budget, etc. If you don't know how to DESIGN a system, you ask stupid questions like "which plays lower?". You can get a 5" midrange to play 5Hz (probably not audibly, but you didn't specify that did you?) its not up to the speaker. When I had a Q15 I had it tuned to like 29Hz in an explorer, and it played plenty low, and loud over almost all frequencies. I did a Q12 sealed in 2 cubes in my wifes jeep and hated the lack of low end produced by the loading direction of the sub. Ported the enclosure and tuned it high, like 36, and i still play down to 25 easy because it loads much better now. My current setup with two BtL 12s plays the loudest on the lows out of all the setups, even with a trunk wall, because my sedan has a long cabin that I take full advantage of.

    Point I'm making is you have to have goals set and prudent planning to make a great system. Brand names are an after thought. If its going to sound good It's because it was designed properly. End of story. You know what i look for in a woofer? Low Vas. That's what gets me excited. More room for ports baby.

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  12. Posted

    just because you have say 16K on tap .....

    1. does not mean its 16 clean use able power.

    2 does not mean you have to USE more power then you need.... head room is a very nice thing to have in a daily stereo.

    If you are doubling amplification without increasing your electrical support you might end up with terrible issues, but provided you have the batteries to back up the amps then you really can't have too much power. You can always turn the gains down, but cranking the gains up to full clipping on too little amplification is what most beginners do. Headroom is very nice to have in case you want to show off a little. Those subs can take some abuse for short periods of time.

    I see that in your sig you are using a capacitor, that should help power 6000 watts.

    LMAO

    Exactly why I said what I said. To run two 2.5kbdcp amps you need some rock solid electrical. You probably have weak electrical right now. If you just beef it up you will get more power out of your amps and more beat from your woofers. One 2.5k should be plenty for two 12s.

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  13. Posted

    My hdc3 18 is still stiff as hell. I've been pounding it hard since day one.

    You ain't never popping that cherry. Seen a pair take 8k for two years off a cactus 12k and they're still virgin tight.

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  15. Posted

    I did a lot of burps with two SPL BL 12s, they really can take anything mechanically. Took me forever to find a buyer tho. Ended up selling them individually to other SPL guys, but i kinda wish I hadn't. They were a lot of fun to play around with.

    But two 18" BLs is no joke. I know the SP4s are a hot ticket right now but you won't be too shabby with the BLs either. Keep us updated!

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  16. Posted

    Doesn't the port look hella crooked in that prefab picture? I thought it was a rear-loaded horn tuned really high for a second, and they call it a "labyrinth port" so i figured it was not a standard vent. But its just a slot port l-o-fuckin-l. I could build a better box with bondo and bird poop.

    I don't want to post the website names for SSAs sake but there's plenty of better box sites out there if you insist on buying instead of building.

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  17. Posted

    To be honest, I use 4/0 to 8 gauge reducers for my zcon.

    That way, I have 0 voltage loss, more power.

    That's awesome. Totally unnecessary on AC power but I still like it. Can't hurt right? I run two runs 4 ga pos/neg to each of my two 12s, so i too dabble with unnecessary. I didn't want those rolls of 4 ga anymore anyways so i used it as sub wire in my car and through my walls for my HT IB3s

    Far as CCA/OFC, it doesn't matter at "low" AC voltages. Just be consistent. And 14-10 ga is more than sufficient if you don't want to spend extra on unnecessary wire thickness.

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  19. Posted

    Replace the grass fed with corn fed, turn on the heat way sooner when cooking the beef, and cook the salmon way less.

    Curious where you found Japanese sweet potatoes though. I rarely ever see those around :(

    My buddy has been on the paleo diet for a few years so he's all into his omega-3 fatty acids hence the grass fed beef n fancy potatoes. I didn't actually know that corn fed beef had like 60% more omega 6s but i guess I don't care either lol. But he was coming over for that meal so I kinda had to cater to him. He brought the potatoes I think he got them from a farmers market close by...

    We cooked the filets only to an internal temperature of 160. I like it bleeding :) salmon was overcooked tho. Did a foil pouch on the grill and forgot about it while trolling **** lol

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  21. Posted

    Wow, can you fail any harder. Perhaps you should just go to Best Buy and ask the same question regarding two of their subs. You'll get a boner answer, but if you aren't willing to try to actually express what you want to do that is all you deserve.

    To tickle you into the right direction, I'll give you a hint. You are asking about equipment without ANY description of the things that will actually make the difference.

    It's been my experience as a public educator that people can, and do indeed, fail harder.

    Indeed, holy fuck.

    I think I'm eating surf and turf for dinner tonight now... Now if you're really running a saz3500 and you want a 1 ohm load grab two BLs with dual 1 ohm (or dual 4 ohm but its D1 rite?) to achieve the correct impedance. This woofer HAS TO BE PORTED so be sure to get a good box built. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART! a good enclosure leads to good sound. If you don't have proper electrical support, don't even bother running high powered amps or you will burn them up

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  25. Posted

    i love the videos thats a mean setup right there. I know its a BHE design but can you share the volumes/tuning im hella curious. I never got to try the triple slug BtLs I got the ufo style after my Q15, now I have N2s. I think I might go for a 4th order with some 15s, slightly different loading wall configuration but overall pretty similar

    anyway im jealous as hell over here. nice work on that window :)

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