Jump to content

00WJGC

Members
  • Content Count

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by 00WJGC


  1. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9FMZONgTcX2/p_500CDA9847/Alpine-CDA-9847.html

    I need a simple deck for my budget build & I found one of these for $95. It's an '05 model, but it looks mint. Opinions?I'm gonna be running a 2-channel & monoblock. Undecided on the 6.5'' components for the front, but I have an SA-12 for sub duty.

    I've ran the CDA 9813, 9886, & 9855 but right now I'm just looking for a simple setup.


  2. The people who don't like JL in general around here have no experience with them either :(

    I'd step up to the Sundown in this case though as well.

    You may also want to bridge that 300/4 and go back to passive with that set. If you had the 9887 and had true crossovers I wouldn't say that, but I'd expect the passive integration to be better than active on an amplifier. And :morepower1: is more headroom which will be of benefit.

    I'm running active through my h/u, not the amplifier. One of the x-over's was damaged during shipping, I'm waiting on a replacement so I can go passive again....active is too time consuming for me.

    I know the SA-12 can handle twice the 500w my amp will put out, but I'd rather not go any bigger. Jacob Fuller said 500w will make it move nicely, & I don't wanna spend the $$$ for a bigger amplifier & have to upgrad my electrical anymore. (stock alt/batt & 1/0 Big 3)

    I was just hoping to get some feedback on the RWE. I know the Sundown is the better woofer, but for $70 the MBQ looks really nice. I believe it's the older German made Quart also.


  3. I have a JL Audio 500/1v2 & am ready to add my substage. I'm using an Alpine-CDA-9886 h/u & Image Dynamics CTX-65 components up front, powered by a JL Audio 300/4v2 (running active). I know JL Audio isn't very well liked around here, but I got the 2 amps lnib for $280. I originally planned on porting a single Sundown SA-12, but now I'm not sure.

    I can get a brand new Sundown SA-12d2 for $160 locally, or order a 12'' MB Quart RWE-302 from woofersetc for $70. I plan on porting either way, & I have a Grand Cherokee, so space isn't an issue as I've heard the MBQ's need alot of space.

    Opinions?

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p-3415-rwe-302-mb-quart-12-1000-watt-reference-series-subwoofer.aspx


  4. so i did wrong by receiving something that didnt work. talked to him, couldnt work it out. tried to make a claim with paypal, but he had me send it as a gift payment which i found out from paypal was a bad idea. first time buying from somebody. when i talked to the lady from paypal over the phone she told me to call the bank and ask for a buyer protection. so i called the number on the back of my card like she said to do and they understood and were willing to help me out.

    chase is investigating it and i was waiting to send the hu back after i heard back from them which i havnt. but after this i am just going to send the HU back to him since i have no use for a cd player that doesnt work.

    did yall see this thread.... http://www.caraudio.com/forums/*negative*-feedback/504971-bob-saget.html

    after looking at that it seems like he knew it didnt work. maybe im not reading right or something

    1) The h/u worked properly when I sent it, & when you received it. I have the proof that it worked. If something happens to it after you get it that doesn't mean you commit fraud & get your money back.

    2) You chose to send it as a gift. It's not my fault if you were too cheap to pay the $4.20 PayPal fee.

    007.png

    3) If you send the h/u back I will work something out with you, but you're not gonna just file it as "unauthorized" & get your money back.

    4) There's no "after this" to it, I refuse to allow you to fraudulently get your money back.

    5) That proves nothing. I have pictures & videos of the cd player working when I had it. Kinda makes it impossible for it to have been broke when I got it. There are 12-15 people who rode in my Jeep when I had it that will vouch for it working.


  5. Didn't you already get caught as a scam artist?

    Goob de-mod/banned me on CA.com for abusing my MOD powers, not scamming. And I'd do it again, that crap was ridiculous.

    I saw a lot of bashing, but no evidence that I've scammed anyone. Then again, there isn't any evidence; I've never scammed anyone.

    Everyone I ever sold to on ca.com received their gear, & in working order. I have been texting mossberg this weekend to work out a deal & will be sending him a 2nd h/u as soon as possible.

    As for everyone on ca.com "proving" I'm a scammer....

    The guy on JeepForum ended up getting 2 h/u's. The one I originally sent, & the replacement I sent after he started the thread stating he never got his h/u. It was stuck in-transit due to inclimate weather. If you bashers would've actually READ the thread you'd have seen where he got them 2 days apart. He then apologized, as well as those who bashed on that forum. The thread was spammed by immature people on that forum, then carried to ca.com by the immature people their. Instead of actually reading the thread everyone just linked it, posted my personal info, sms bombed me, & called me a scammer.

    And Dylan seems to have everyone thinking the 9813 was broke when I received it from mossberg, & sold bcst86 a broken h/u. Then would you please explain how do I have pictures & videos of it playing cd's? Again, a lot of bashing, pointing fingers, & calling me a scammer, but no actual proof or evidence. I have PROOF that bcst86 is trying to scam me.


  6. GEE-ZUS!!!

    :WTFBubble:

    As soon as I told him I shipped the h/u he PM'd me asking for a refund, something about he needed the money because his truck was towed. He asked that I gift him the money back via PayPal & he'd ship the h/u back once he got it. I told him I could not do that, for obvious reasons. A few days pass & I get an IM from him thanking me for the deck, stating it arrived & was undamaged. I told hm to enjoy it & went on my merry way. Then 2-3 days after that he says the cd player doesn't work & asked that I refund him the money, then he'd send the h/u. I held my end as the seller, I sent him a working h/u & he received a working h/u. It was insured, so I was willing to work with him, but I wasn't gonna just send him the money.

    Because of the previous odd behavior I asked him to ship the h/u back & then I would fully re-imburst him. He simply refused. I even offered him two seperate h/u's in exchange, a Kenwood KDC-X592 or a Pioneer DEH-P600. He said no & again requested a refund. I then told him I'd be willing to have the Alpine fixed or exchange it for a different h/u, but I would not just send him the money back. I sent him a working h/u & he received a working h/u. At this point he ignored me & i figured he didn't want any of my offers.

    Now, several weeks later, I log-in to my PayPal & I have a balance of -$140. Since I refused to just give him my money he calls his bank & lies to them about an "unauthorized charge" on his account. If I was him I believe I would have sent the h/u back or exchanged it with one I offered before I committed fraud.


  7. I sold him an Alpine CDA-9813 I had listed here back in January. Now it's a month later: my PayPal balance is frozen at -$140.00 & I have an open dispute filed against me. It's a credit card chargeback, citing "unauthorized chargeback". So, in summary, bcst86 called his bank & lied to them about sending me the money so they'd have PayPal charge it back. Now he has the headunit & his money. I believe the correct term for what he has done would be called "fraud", which is very much so against the law.

    I have the USPS delivery confirmation #, which when entered into their site shows the item was delivered successfully to the address he gave me. I have pictures of the h/u playing a cd while in my Jeep. I also have two other PM's, which are even bigger pieces of evidence. The first being a PM from him stating he received the headunit. His account is unverified on PayPal, but I got him to admit on here to filing the unauthorized charges claim with his bank.

    So, bcst86.....

    I have the delivery confirmation # from USPS stating the item was delivered, & pictures of a working item. I also have messages from you stored on here & screenshot in which you, from the exact same account.... Inquired about purchasing the item, received my PayPal account info to pay for the item, gave cofirmation that you'd sent payment, gave your address as to where it should be delivered, gave confirmation that the item was succesfully delivered undamaged, ANDDDDD....said you contacted your bank & had them chargeback my account for the sent amount, stating unauthorized charges.

    I want the chargeback canceled on my PayPal account immediately. If the -$140.00 balance & claim on my account have not been removed by the end of the business day on Tuesday, February 29th I will have my lawyer contact PayPal/your bank. If I have to use a lawyer to resolve this I will also pursue you in a criminal court for committing fraud against me, PayPal, & your bank.

    005-1.png

    USPS Delivery Confirmation # 0310 0480 0001 0073 8182

    ha.png

    001.png

    002.png

    003.png

    dytdkyc.png

    005.jpg

    004-1.jpg

    002-1.jpg

    **The last picture is actually a video from my phone of it working & playing cd's. I don't know why it won't play once I uploaded it to my computer/photobucket.


  8. Yea, well apparently alternators easily make dry leaves into flames... especially when they get trapped between the rubber boot that should be covering the charging bolt... Found this out on the NJ Turnpike ... Not a good thing at 2am coming from NYC... :suicide-santa:

    I learned that it's best to disconnect the negative battery when you're messing w/ an amplifier....liked to of jolted my brother & burned my 1st ride down w/ one touch of the amplifier casing. :shrug:

    Now I actually understand how a vehicle charging system works & why the battery should be disconnected......

    lesson learned =]


  9. Heat is a voicecoil's foe.

    understatement... Heat is the devil to all electronics... there is nothing worse in the world than heat build up on a component no matter the task it is intended for.. Good luck with your situation holley... hopefully it is quick.. :suicide-santa:

    I found this out first hand with my first install when I was 15-16. Nearly burnt my Mustang down. (:


  10. I have a KDC-X492 in my Jimmy running the PG RSD's in it. I run that thing right up the first hint of distortion and back down a notch on a regular basis and that level is often 28,29,30 or higher depending on the recording level of the material I'm listening to. Not only has it always sounded pretty damn amazing for HU power, it's never done anything like that. I have a KDC-X991 in the van, but everything is externally amplified so comparing to it is no help.

    I can't imagine any reason why it would do this, except maybe it's driving through a factory amp, damaged that amp and is now causing some sort of short issue. Other than something like that, I dunno without it being the HU itself. Wait for the replacement and see what happens I guess.

    I didn't think of that, I was thinking defective unit or bad ground. OP, does the vehicle have an external factory amplifier?


  11. so will it work

    Yes, in your engine it will. Its not an easy install, but the jeep mounting and that mounting are identical. They are just rotated 180º the way they mount.. We've done a few of these though, so I am 1000% certain that this does work on that engine. If you have any other questions though, please dont be afraid to ask... Rob

    That's why I was hesitant to tell him it would work. lol

    ...the bracket on the alternator he posted is identical to the mounting on my Jeep's, but it's kinda hard to compare when one's upside down. =]


  12. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm gonna say it should. The alternator in the Jeep 4.0 engine is mounted at the top of the other side, but it looks as if the mounting brackets line up. As long as they accept returns I'd atleast give it a try.


  13. 1ohm final load = 4ohm DVC

    2ohm final load = 4ohm SVC

    im well aware of that i was just wondering what i should go with im leaning toward the svc's cause that would put me at around 300w a piece which is recomended. i guess i sould have made it more clear im basically asking if running them at 1 ohm would be too risky? i have no problem with running it at 2 ohms, just me wondering and wanting some extra advice.

    If I were you I'd run the dvc @ 1ohm & just turn down the gain. They will give you more options for later installs with different amplifiers. That's really the only benefit I see in running @ 1ohm.


  14. Yep because owning a car manufactured by the best makes your installation suspect.

    I was just joking; I've owned a Ford, Chevrolet, & Chrysler vehicle. They're all about the same imo.....

    But to be honest..... the '96 Mustang Cobra SVT I had in high school was my least favorite of the 3....


  15. Think that will hit pretty hard?

    lulz.

    No one knows what every setup will sound like. If they did, there wouldn't be any competitions. Installation can make/break the end result.

    You can swap out the same equipment from vehicle A to vehicle B, with significant output increase or decrease...

    Next, I don't know what your definition of "hit pretty hard" is. When I first heard a bass car, it had two lower line rockford 12"s and 300watts, I was giggling from the bass, thought it was awesome.

    Six months later I got a nice setup and got use to it. Jumping back in my friends car with the RF 12s, couldn't really tell there was bass. Point is, depends what your use to hearing.

    Might do 138db at the headrest, might do 135, maybe 142, maybe 136, or even 143... who knows.

    Sorry if I sound harsh, but it's the truth. :) Don't forget to post a build log!

    LOL... It was kinda a rhetorical question... I figure it would be decent... I remember how impressed I was with my buddies system back in 94... he had two crappy 10" Kenwood subs, crappy kenwood amp... and a jvc tape deck... LOL... I think that setup did like 135 when he had it measured... he had the two 10's in a big sealed box... lol

    Thanks for all of the input though!

    Have you had any previous setups? What were they like? ever meter them? ever been to a comp? :P

    Yeah... I have had a system... last system was two 12" Crystal CMP's (sealed)... on a JBL 1200.1 I had JL Audio 5.25 TR series coaxials... and JL TR series 6x9's... JBL 50.4 (I think that was the amp)... car was deadened with brown bread... all in a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix... Alpine 9835 HU... 6 inch LCD's in the headrests... and passenger visor!

    Never measured it... never competed... but it bumped nicely! :D

    My new set up will be:

    2 - 12" SA 12's

    SAZ 1000d

    SAX 100.4

    CDT Audio CL 69 6x9's

    CDT Audio 6.5 inch (will be HD series)

    Will have to leave stock headunit in the 2011 Dodge Charger... due to all of the functions... will prob add a JL Audio Clean Sweep...

    I'm sure Metra will have a kit available in the near future.


  16. Actually 1.5^3ft is pretty common size for the SA-12".

    If the OP could either post pics of trunk area or get us measurments, it would be easier to recommend something else if they are space limited.

    I stand corrected then, just sounded small to me.

    Pictures are definitely needed, if he only has 3cu ft total to work with before speaker, port, & brace displacement that's not gonna work. lol


  17. you're gonna need 2 SAZ-1000's if you're running 2 SA-12's imo

    Why? Why does it need rated power plus 400watts per driver? No such thing as under powering being a bad thing.

    Consider the drivers being overkill for the amp, and not the drivers being under powered...

    I should have worded that differently, I know it doesn't need that much. I ran a single SA-12 off 400w & it got loud enough for my liking. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in, but here's my .02 ..............

    A single SA-12 with 1,000w & a proper size ported box would be louder & more effecient than two SA-12's with 500w each & restraints on box size. And with one you don't have to run it at exactly 1,000w, the gain can be cut down some & leave plenty of headroom. With a pair of SA-12's you're really gonna be pushing a SAZ-1000. Plus, it's gonna be $200 cheaper.

    You’re doubling motor force and cone area. Theoretically it should be louder than 1 12" on 1K watts. Plus he could always add another SAZ-1000D and strap them to the pair or upgrade to either a SAZ-2500D or bigger.

    I agree, but the OP stated that trunk space was limited(1-1.5cu per sub). Correct me if I'm wrong, but that sounds a little small for ported SA-12's. If he isn't gonna have enough room to build an optimum enclosure for 2 then I'd try a single setup. He can always add a 2nd sub later.

×