dbsupra

Your subs are crooked. Just kidding. Looks awesome! Very clean work.

You used to be able to buy automotive carpet at Walmart. They were 36 x 72 rolls and real cheap. I haven't seen it in a while but they may still carry it. Parts Express sells it and a little better quality. They are in Ohio and ship quick.

I'm a tech that works on industrial systems so I'm picky haha. All we use is copper and aluminum.

I prefer aluminum. I wouldn't use zinc. However the place I used to buy aluminum closed so I bought the terminals Rick linked. If you want to use bolts still I found it best to double nut them to keep them tight.

Why stop there! Keep sanding and it will look like a mirror! lol I know I keep making suggestions, and I don't want to sound like a knowitall. Just been there done that. For the clear coat, see if you can get some DuPont ChromaClear I think it's called. Really nice stuff. It lays even and very tough. That you can only spray with a gun so that may be more than you want to get into. As far as rattle cans, never had good luck with much except I think rustoleum was decent. Duplicolor yellowed pretty bad with heat. Lastly, what kind of paint is the chrome to begin with? Typically enamel based paint doesn't clear very well. I think the clear creates a chemical reaction or something. Can't remember for sure. Not a full out paint guy haha. Might want to try it first on a test piece. Again, ask me how I know...

Can i ask why you put it as close as you can to the battery? like what does that do for you having it that close to the battery? If you put the fuse 3 foot down line from the battery, the 3 feet from the battery to the fuse is unprotected. If you put it close to the battery, it minimizes the amount of wire unprotected. Example you ask? I was young and didn't know any better. I found a perfect spot to mount my inline fuse holder on the firewall. Well, the wire going down the fender melted and dead shorted to the body and smoked the wire. Luckily it didn't blow up the battery. I think most MFG's I've seen spec it to be within 18" of the battery. I just shoot for as close to the battery as I can get.

Quick check up on the thread before I leave. Tape up the edges before gluing?? Never done so... What's the purpose behind that? The tape you see was there to prevent the paint from hitting anything other than the port. It doesnt bond as well. I'm not sure if its because the paint prevents the glue from soaking into the wood or if its because the glue just won't bond to the paint due to composition. Kinda like oil and water.

I'd start with an underhood battery first. I'm partial to the diehard platinum but the XS is a great battery too. Get the biggest you can physically fit. A cheaper alternative would be a Deka Intimadator. In my opinion you shouldn't be having an issue with what you are running. Either your battery is getting weak or you have an issue with your terminal crimps or your mounting points. I'd double check those things first.

Nice job on the box! That port looks huge. What is the sqin? Vidzzzz

Nice progress! For future try and tape up any edges you intend to glue. I learned that the hard way. I can't tell if you have all of it taped or not so be sure you sand it down before gluing. Good luck tomorrow. Wisdom teeth suck.

It's best to go with a smaller sub in an optimal enclosure vs trying to squeeze bigger subs into an enclosure too small. From here you need to figure out how much space you have and provide solid measurements. Then you can determine what would best fit your needs. You'd be surprised how much a port eats cubes. The box I'm working on now the port itself is 3 cubes. Not that yours would be that big, just saying.

I've built 3 different boxes and by far my favorite was 2 cubes tuned at 35hz. I vote for a slot port. Much easier to get the tuning and port area you need. Not familiar with your car but sealed off from the trunk would be another option.

What is your max depth? The sundown Sd series was made for tight locations. There isn't a pole vent so you can damn near put it on the wall.

I had a mtx eliminator 15 powered off a punch 45. Later I used the punch on a set of 6x9 and bought a legacy amp. I think it was 300w. Sold all that and got a 10" kicker competition in a 4th order bandpass design I got faxed straight from kicker. All this was off a pioneer tape deck and an Optimus eq

Cendo? WTFBBQ? Tint looks good!

This. I'll only add one thing. If you can bridge it, check to see what the minimum stable ohm load is. Not sure what you are trying to run.

Thanks Shizzy Reading>me. I completely missed the OP was running it in a sealed enclosure. I saw Mr Hinote mention sealed in his explanation, but thought he was just being thorough lol.

To prevent over excursion below tuning? Honestly, I have mine turned down pretty low. If I set it where most people recommend it attenuates higher than I want it to. Perhaps due to the shallow rolloff of my amp ssf. I know what stress sounds like, and turn down the gain/volume if I hear it. But much like detonation, at that point it may be too late but that's how I choose to roll. What do you propose to avoid over excursion or is that a non issue in your eyes? It seems the consensus on here is to use it, and being that you go against that I was just curious of your reasoning is all.

Sucks to hear about the bike. Id go with 2. You know eventually that won't be enough so then 3 will sound good haha. On a side note. There is a shop I go to here and there to help with my buddies supra. The guy that owns the shop has an entire room of dirt bikes. He was hardcore into racing back in the day. He has a couple Honda cr something, a maiko 250, a triumph trail and my favorite a combat wombat lol. I don't know if any of that means anything to you. I don't know much about bikes.

Yep I get that. You can even see it on the excursion plot in WinISD. What I don't get is why Sean is against using it. Thanks for the detailed explanation though!

I understand it is a low frequency high pass filter. Why wouldn't you use one? Because of the rolloff?

Here is what I look at: (in order) Space available Port area needed Tuning frequency Once I determine those, I then try a few different designs and see if the cubes is within the mfg "recommended specs". I usually use Torres calculator, then double check by hand. From there I model the different designs I have come up with. Despite all this, modeling is still a basic simulation and used to compare the different enclosures and often isn't the same in real world. Also, I seem to build a few designs to see what I like best. I just like building and trying new things. Sometimes it is an improvement, sometimes not so much. All that being said, if I have a few different designs and are similar in performance, I may lean towards the smaller enclosure with higher power. You may even see some MFG like Sundown even footnote "xx cuft for spl applications". But to aimlessly build it bigger or smaller because of power will typically yield poor results. * I am be no means a professional designer. I've been into car audio since the late 80's and built I don't know how many enclosures. I know what has worked for me, but may not always be the "best" for someone else with different goals.

Welcome back Shawn! I didn't get an email back so it wasn't me. Luckily it seems to be intact. Swift has received a few in the same condition so maybe they don't like us southern Midwest guys haha. Even though many make it unharmed I still believe $400 and 50lb the packaging could still stand some improvement. I appreciate your reply, hopefully it is smooth from here on. Dave

Lol just saw this thread. Honestly for whatever reason there are like a handful of words that I can't spell to save my life. Crescendo is one of them. On several forums I've seen it abbreviated as such and thought that was the appropriate way to do it. Point taken lol

You put it as close to the battery as you can lol Box design looks good! I wouldn't be so concerned about port/cube as much as port area itself.