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dbsupra

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Posts posted by dbsupra

  1. Posted

    40hz is really low for a bandpass. What is the sealed resonance? You'll shred stuff in a hurry if your ported section is tuned too far below the sealed.

    SSF all the way up makes no sense either. It is a high pass filter that you have cranked up then have to compensate by setting the gain high.

    I'd start there first. Second stop getting advice from that shop. Last I'd do some testing to find your sealed and ported frequencies. As shizz said you may have some issues there.

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  2. Posted

    Tuning low and small enclosure doesn't really go together. 7 sqin of port won't get it I believe. I would go for atleast a 4". With an aeroport you can get away with a little less than a slot.

    I would make the enclosure from .6-.75 with the 4" port.

    I'm not a master of port wars but usually you want to play 10-15hz below tuning to unload the sub. I'm not sure how the sa8 likes that low, never played that low with it

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  3. Posted

    The newer version of torres (the one he is using) is a little closer. Making a sealed enclosure is easy. But honestly the majority of people are terrible at math and would probably be closer to right using a program versus doing it by hand. The tricky part is port displacement and most don't consider end correction. People don't seem to get measuring the port down the middle at all either.

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  4. Posted

    Its a straight port no L. I didn't believe him. I would have thought the length would only extend 3" past the physical port. I have never built this way before and I usually trust what sean says but I wanted to see if he was in left field on this one.

    I ended up building an L since I'm confident how that works. I do have a DATS and usually test after building. Generally its pretty close to what I calculated. But this making a 10hz difference I went with what I was familiar with. This is going to be a comp box with a tuneable port.

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  5. Posted

    How can I spot voids? What do they look like?

    It is physically impossible. Plywood is a laminant. The center ply could have a void the size of a dinner plate and you would never know until you cut it into.

    This.

    I bought a sheet that looked great on the outside and knocking across it sounded good. But I made a cut and it looked like someone took buckshot to the side of it.

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  8. Posted

    This is for a project I'm working on.  I've only ever done a slot port once that didn't physically bend but that was on a really small enclosure.

     

    This port is physical length of 12.5" and 6" width.  Is this acoustic length right?  I'm used to a slot port having a second leg and just adding 1/2 of the port width.  For this enclosure, if the acoustic length is right on the pic then it will make nearly a 10hz change in tuning.  Kind of a big deal.

     

    Thanks!

     

    dave_zps158f9298.jpg

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  10. Posted

    Wow Big Red. I haven't heard that name in a long time. Back in the early 80's honda had a sport ute 3 wheeler called Big Red. They had a 250 and 350 came out a few years later. I owned both and was a ton of fun when I was a kid.

    Box is looking great!

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  11. Posted

    90* clamps are awesome and help keep everything square.

    Also I often overcut overlap pieces by 1/16 or so then use a flush trim bit to make it all flush. Yeah its a little cheesy but works really well. I can't stand when something isn't flush or didn't square properly, even if it is a small amount. I've seriously recut pieces because of this. Doing the overcut makes everything super clean and often easier to get great results with seams.

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  13. Posted

    Save some money and get the SSD, it seems like it would be a good fit for you. The Q isn't a bad option at all though, you can also look at an SSA ICON.

    Huh? The SSD is nearly $100 cheaper than the Q. I don't understand what you are saying.

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  15. Posted

    I ran a sundown 1200 and ppi 100x4 on a diehard plat 34 only. Stock 90a alternator and big 3 and voltage stayed in the high 12 range most of the time. At full tilt it would drop to mid 12 on some songs that dropped really low.

    If you buy from sears, you can look online and see when their friends and family day is to save some money. They have one a month along with coupon codes in the summer months. Helps save a decent amoint of money.

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  16. Posted

    Blah blah blah!! Anybody got anything new going on with their builds?

    I am gonna have to tackle removing the headliner & rear panels to start doing some deadening. It makes a hell of a ruckus since all the roof braces are broke away.....lol

    Sean and I got my roof fixed. Now finding more stuff loose and vibrating. Still have 1 more battery to fit in. The original plan didn't go as planned lol. Hopefully my garage addition will get done soon and can build a new roof.

    Also helping do an explorer build and a camry trunk build for local guys.

    Atleast it isn't as humid as it was.

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  18. Posted

    Every opinion is biased. Loud racing is ok but audio is not. Much like how I get harassed about the 4" exhaust on my supra but a Harley can ride by with straight pipes that is twice as loud and that is acceptable because of what it is.

    There are people out there in both hobbies that give us a bad name and often the tolerance level due to that is apparent.

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  20. Posted

    Just because it is ported doesn't mean much. Port area and tuning as well as net volume makes a large impact on how it performs.

    I have 1 sp4 18 on a sundown 2k and 1 roof brace broke, side window is leaking, and my side mirror is taped and ziptied.

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  22. Posted

    I had the extra spider on mine. You would be hard pressed to pick out anything about it that didn't sound good. For the amp you are running I'd get the extra spider. 100% on cooling. Internal leads is just a preference really.

    Hopefully by the time your subs come in the weather will be cooler when we start building. Doubtful but I try to be optimistic.

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