pro-rabbit

I would look into actually measuring your car out and some one else design it. The design you had us build was not the perfect world setup for those subs to be honest. Measure out your car and keep a little more distance from the back then before. I would also look to alter the port area that design had. I'm not sure what kind of space you have back there, but if you can add width or anything it would make that setup work much better. The dims you posted are right at 11.9ft3 gross before any double baffling or port/sub or anything. Also if your goal is a 150db then playing with the tuning is going to be key as well as sub/port placement. The last design you provided was not exactly correct but should function ok per your application. You may be having higher expectations then what your current setup can provide though, so that can be an issue. Do you want a 150 legal, headrest, or outlaw? Burp or music?

1.5 will be about right. I would think your meter will have an internal resistance of .5-.7 so that is just fine. Time to check for phase issues.

This would have been the next step i would have suggested after finding out the wiring configuration lol. You can do them in any order and both will tell you what you need to know overall about the wiring.

Set your DMM to the read ohms then touch the leads together and that will tell you what the internal resistance is of the meter itself. Then touch the terminal and see what the overall reading is. Subtract the internal resistance from that reading and that is what you are wired to. Another issue could be rise. If you are getting a large amount of impedance rise you could be just low on power and not as loud as you think you should be. Of course the golden issue with these setups are, you had higher expectations then what those 10s can provide in that enclosure lol. It should still be very loud though no matter what with that power and cone area. Perhaps it could be in your settings as well.

Here is a noob question but how do I tell if they are wired out of phase? Grab a DMM if you have one and check it out, that is the best fastest way.

Odds are if you flip the port around you will have issues with the loading and you won't like it, but it never hurts to try. I'm not sure who designed that enclosure, but personally I would have liked to have seen a little more space there, but with what you have it really shouldn't be an issue. I would double check the wiring on your subs to make sure the coils are wired correctly so that there is not a phasing issue there. I'm not sure if we pre-wired that one for you or not, been a while on that one. If we did the letter writing should all be negative if I personally wired it.

Try being down the road from Stillwater. There is literally not enough room to post the amount of BS I hear on a daily basis here.

I can't even keep count of how many 12W7 setups are doing 60's around here. Same here..even worse for kicker since we are just down the road from them. I find it funny to be honest. Or the looks on their face when I turn the truck on full tilt. I really should get some footage of it one day.

I get the.... " My boys car is so much louder then your truck, he has some W7's and was braking glass and doing mid 170's and holds the world record." Then I pull them to the side at the shop and show them all my plaques from setting world records several times over. They typically leave rather quickly. hahahahaha

That happened a little while back for Orion actually lol.

If he has his amp setup up correctly now, then he needs to asdjust the sub level control. Regardless what has been said, most units require the use of this to be off of zero to produce voltage. Lol. So my pictures are fake and I made up the manual? I never said your pics or setup was fake. I am however stating a fact that is being over looked because you continue to intrude on the conversation with only having general knowledge of your setup(or similar setups). If we were discussing a unit the same as yours then I would agree and say that setting to 0 should be the best option as your unit does not have a sub level control it actually has a bass boost instead and should not be used. So back to the topic, for his setup he needs to use the sub level control to adjust his RCA voltage out. If you like I can pull out some units and DMM to show how it works. I see no reason though as this is fairly straight forward. I do not suggest setting it to the max though. Most units actually produce max volts at about 80% level on the sub out side.

If he has his amp setup up correctly now, then he needs to asdjust the sub level control. Regardless what has been said, most units require the use of this to be off of zero to produce voltage.

All the units I have had over the years were 0-15 on the sub level controller. What units are you referring to exactly as I do not know of any.

I disagree with this post. The sub level on a hu should be at zero. All six RCA outputs should have the same output voltage then. I say should because not all hu's are the same but by design this is how they work. I never adjust the sub level on the hu. But if I would it would be to turn it down not up. An separate eq or sub processor would be better to use in this case. That is how I do it but I know that everybody does something different. If the op does not understand the adjustments on the equipment he using then that is definitely an issue. I have never used a DCON. But I would suspect that if all adjustments are done correctly then possibly the enclosure is at fault or the driver just isn't the right one for him. That is relative to the unit itself. Overall all sub level controls will adjust the rca output. At the lowest level the unit will be using 1-2 volts in most cases. All though again, it does depend on the unit and overall design of how that company wanted the sub level control to operate with the other features. Overall though, most source units work in this way.

I highly suggest you do some research to better understand the settings on your head unit and amplifier. All though it may seem tedious and useless it will pay off when you have a fully functional setup for a long time with out need repair or replacement.

If you are referring to open room environment. Once you place the enclosure in a car, the response curve drastically changes per the acoustical properties of the vehicle.

Do not have the input setting all the way up on the amp. That will also generate distortion by clipping the signal thus damaging the driver. Your "OCD" is misplaced. The sub level needs to be adjust in order to produce a signal.

The sub level on the headunit adjusts the voltage of the RCA out on the sub side. This means when you have it on 0 you have it at the minimum the unit will produce. In order to generate volume you have to adjust the sub level out on the headunit to get a decent rca voltage.

The input adjustment is the "gain" you alter it per what the output of the headunit is volt wise. Turn the bass boost off, there is no need to use it as it will generate distortion and it will damage your sub.

Do not use the "bass boost" on the amp. The sub level control on the head unit(assuming it has sub level RCAs) will raise lower RCA voltage to the amp and is a nice way to adjust the volume for when you have passengers or just don't want to be at full volume. Best bet is to read some "how to's" on how to tune/adjust your amp to help save your sub from being damaged do to distortion.

Just build or order a custom enclosure. I had an intergra for a daily driver for a while and we did a few different things with it. Subs and port up work great for us. I might even have a pic sitting around.... Edit found a pic of one of the setups we used...

I will see if I can get one Monday if some one does not have it posted by then. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure on the strand count difference though.

Looks like around 38 boxes on the pallet..but hard saying what they all are. Looks like a fun build though...going to be watching this one.

Thank you and I am glad that everything is performing as you wanted overall. The Dcons are a great driver and are always underestimated. Also, thank you for business. I'm glad we got the enclosure worked out for you and if you need anything in the future feel free to email/call us and we will be glad to help out.

Very true... OP-Everyone has listed several ways to brace it and such. It seems you are stuck with the enclosure so you might as well see what you can do. I would say sell it locally, but i don't think you will get anywhere near what you need out of it though.