king alpha

Are you able to fit a box with the dimensions you mentioned into the trunk? I used to own a 95 and my dad had a 05 and I noticed that there was no way I could fit the box from my 95 into the 05. The 2012 Mustangs seem to have the small openings like the 05 so it may be a problem trying to get a box in there. And whatever you find out, let me know. I want a 2012 myself.

The Mag v3 is a great sub IMO. They are older subs though. I know, I got mines before right before Fi entered the sub market. My only complaint and the reason why I run an Ascendant Audio Havoc now is that they are discontinued. I believe it's a good 4-5 years since the v3s were sold. I wanted to run a pair of Mags but couldn't get my hands on a second one.

So does this mean a SAE-1000D is strappable with a SAZ-1000D?

Is this off of 500 Watts? Also nice to see some stuff from Stereo Integrity. I run a Mag V3 with a SAE-1000D. I should be getting my SAE-1200D in by the end of the week and the SAE-1000D should work perfectly with one or two of those BMs. BTW, CrazyKenKid, we should continue bugging Nick to tell us what company he's building the Mag V3 clones for. Maybe Jake knows..........

Maybe he just wanted to get rid of you. I mean what was the point of going to the shop looking at amps anyway if you already got the sundown? Would you have walked out of the shop happier if the guy told you "yeah, the sundown kicks the shit out of the JLs". I own a SAE-1000D and a SAE-1200D. I won't go to a shop and ask them to compare their products to what I have. It's a waste of gas. It's like going to a Chevy dealer to look at their Camaros when you already own a Shelby-500.

Haha. Buddy, you need to pay attention to the other guy asking about the mag v3 remake on the SI forums. Some guy calling himself King Alpha. Thanks for all the replies. It's always great to see companies like Sundown always bettering their products, but damn he works friggin fast. I blinked and theres a new set of amps for sale. BTW, can the newer SAZ-1000D be strapped to the old SAE-1000D?

I'm seeing the sale, and I want to pick up another Sundown amp. I seriously don't need a new one right now, but those prices are just to good. I currently run the SAE-1000D to my Mag v3 and I'm happy with the little black amp. I see no reason to replace it. But I am curious, how different is the SAZ-1000D compared to the SAE-1000D? I read about the SAZ being more bulletproof than a SAE but, I'm don't really need to push my amps to their limits. Is the SAZ slightly underrated? (your 1200D amps comes to mind). Now I have 20 more days to decide.

I currently own a 1995 Ford Mustang that I am thinking of trading it in (this car is great and cursed at the same time). This car has a 130Amp stock alternator and I currently have a SAE-1000D powering a Stereo Integrity Mag with 1000W RMS @ 1ohm. I also have a Crossfire CFA302 amp rated at 75W RMS x 2 @ 4ohms. I've never had a problem with these amps, so I never thought about upgrading my alternator to an aftermarket model that produces 200+ amps. Anyway, I'm looking at a few different possibilities for my next ride. I want a Nissan 350Z or a new Mustang GT, but that would require saving up for the next few years. I also thought about getting a truck, either a Toyota Tocoma or a Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon. Or go the cheapest route and probably the most logical right now, and get a Mazda Mazda3. My plan for the sound system is to take off everything from the Mustang and put it in the new ride. So, will I run into problems running the same system if the Alternator of the new car is not rated as high as the old Mustang? The new Mustang and the Tocoma supposedly has a 130 Amp alternator, so I don't think these cars will be a problem. The 350Z had a 110 Amp alternator. The Colorado/Canyon has a 125 Amp alternator. And the Mazda3 has a 90 Amp Alternator. So my question is if I'll see a difference in performance for my sound system if I go from a 130 Amp to a 125 amp, or a 110 amp, or more importantly a 90 amp alternator because I'm leaning towards a Mazda3? Oh yeah, one more thing, I may get a hold of a 1500 Watt amp (Massive P1500.1). How do you think the different stock amps will hold up to 1500 Watts?

I love my Mag, and the new Mags look awesome, but for some reason, I'm going have to pass on those and get me a few (2 or 3)of the BMs. I'm really interested in those. Speaking of the BMs, can we get a picture of them showing the inverted surround that was mentioned in other threads? I'm picturing something in my head, but it looks weird.

Why not continue building the last-gen Mag alongside the next-gen Mag? Okay, I know I asked this before, and you already answered, but I can't find it anywhere (It may have been when that triple stacked Mag proto was shown....who knows). Anyway, your answer was something like: "why continue building an older sub, when the new one is better in every way for the same cost?" Something along that lines, and I agreed, at that time. But the more I read, the more I believe there's two completly different markets for the old and new Mags. The new Mags for the "SQ" crowd that wants small enclosures, and the old Mag for the "LSQ" crowd that wants a sub that can take as much power as they can throw at it (also the previously mentioned RoE and CA.com crowd) and a 15" sub. Then you got the BMs below them. Everything's covered.

How does the output of the new mag in a sealed box compare to a previous mag in a ported 2.0 ft^3 @ 32 Hz with a SAE-1000D?

What would the old SI comps be comparable to in sound?

Any idea where I can find the specs on a 12" Brahma MkIII? I've been looking all over for that. Now that I think of it, if I get a new Mag, I'll be able to compare old Mag vs. new Mag, and an XBL^2 Mag vs. an XBL^2 Brahma.

Here's my plan when money is available (which, sadly, is not) Current system: Mustang: Current Mag, SAE-1000D, Rav4: Stock Step 1: Buy a new Mag and and put it in the Mustang and set aside the old Mag. Step 2: Buy another SAE-1000D and hook that up to the old Mag and install it in the Rav4. Step 3: Buy another new Mag, pair it with the Mag in the Mustang and strap the two SAE-1000D, Rav4 waits for Step 4. Step 4: Buy a SAZ-1500D for the Rav4. What I want in by this time next year: Mustang (2)New Mags, (2)SAE-1000D strapped, Rav4: Old Mag, SAZ-1500D. Then I should be done with subs, So no more Mag upgrades okay.

$275 shipped!!! (well, sucks to live in hawaii ). But, I gotta ask, what's the point of the BMs with the Mags priced so low? BMs gotta be in the $150-200 shipped range to be considered over the Mag. When I thought the Mags would stay at the $450 range, I was considering either a single Mag or a pair of BMs, but now, it's either a single Mag or a pair of Mags.

Make sure it's Saturday, because Sunday's to far away.

That shop is okay, they give me discounts on products so, if I want goods, I'll go there, but won't have them install it. The rest of the install was good though. Now that I think about it, maybe they did that on purpose so the wires don't accidentally touch each other and fudge up my amp. Funny thing was when they asked me how much speakers I was going to use. I said one. But I asked them if they could put speaker wires on all four speaker terminals since it's a dual voice coil sub. The sales guy said something about it being better use just one pair of pos and neg speaker wire from the amp and bridge it at the speaker and how it'll make the amp stronger that way. I said okay, but when I installed the sub, I installed speaker wire where they didn't. Yeah, in the end, it's the same thing, but it's easier. Now one more question. The Eclipse pre outs are 5V. The Massive amp's gain knob is for input voltages of up to 5V. Should I assume that the gain knob should be all the way down? I suck at that "listen to distortion by ear" especially when the car has dual flowmasters and sound like a roided import (It's a V6 Mustang, BTW). BTW: ///M5, not to be a perv, but who's that girl in your sig?

My dad got a used 05 Mustang back in the summer, and it came with a Eclipse CD4000 deck in it. I got him a pair of Alpine Type R Componant Speakers for Christmas. I was planning on installing it for him, but he insisted on haveing the car audio shop I got it from to install it (yeah, he don't trust me tearing apart his car). Anyway, I also had a Pioneer 2x60 Watts laying around to power the componants, and a Massive 1000 Watt amp and a 12" Adire Brahma. I took the Pioneer and Massive amp along to have the shop install those too and feed the wires for me, so I have the sub amp ready for the Brahma. So, yesterday, I stuck the Brahma into one of my old boxes (a sealed box that's a little less then 1ft^3), and hooked it up the the Massive amp. No Bass from the sub at all. No movement nothing. The light on the Massive is on, so the amp works and I checked the wires on the amp and the sub and it's all correct (BTW, the Brahma is Dual 2 ohm, and I have to hooked up for 1 ohm: amp + to both sub +'s and amp - to both sub -'s). The only thing I can think of is maybe the RCA is hooked up wrong in back of the Eclipse (rear pre-out instead of sub pre-out) or there's something set up wrong on the actual Eclipse deck. Now I can pull out my Alpine easily from my 95 Mustang, but pulling out an Eclipse from a 05 Mustang looks a little more complicated (some panels seem to be in the way, and the face don't come out to access those clips like the Alpine). So, I'm asking about the settings of the Eclipse, and if maybe there's a feature that I'm missing that's making me lose bass. If not, then I gotta tear the car apart.

I found the problem. Pretty simple actually. When the shop installed the sub amp, they also installed speaker wires. But they didn't strip the wire. So the screw from the amp was latched onto the plastic part of the speaker wire. One of the screws actually looked like it pierced the plastic and reached the actual wire, but the other didn't. So, I stripped the wire and the sub works. Now onto building a better box for the Brahma.

Cool, I'll try that. But my dad's car is at his place, and the soonest I'll be there is Sunday, so I'll check back then. But I'm not that great at these things so let me ask if this is what you meant? Set my Multimeter to AC voltage. Put the black neadle on Ground wire and leave it there. Then to measure the supply voltage, I stick the red needle on the Power wire. To measure the remote, I put the red needle on the remote wire (small blue one). And to measure the RCA's, put the red needle on the RCA's (Both?). Then to measure the output voltage, I stick the red needle on one of the +'s where the speaker wire should be. Is this right? Also, do I disconnect the sub? I just want to make sure I don't blow anything.

The Massive P1000.1 dosn't have an external fuse for me to pull out. And the fuse by the battery is in.

I'm building a box that's, according to my calculations: 1.9959 cubic ft (not including port and .12ft^3 sub displacement), with a port area of 28.75 square in, and port length of 33 in. This box should get me about 32-33 Hz. This box is for a single 12" SI Mag that's going to be powered by a Sundown SAE-1000D. Anyway, this is only my second box build, and my box building skills ain't nowhere close to most on this forum. But I'm wondering how some of my problems will effect the actual sound of the sub. My problems lie in the port, which runs through one side of the box, and continues around the back of the box. So, these are my problems with the port: 1. The port area is supposed to be 11 1/2 in. tall, and 2 1/2 in. wide. But after the glue dried, the height is still 11 1/2, but the width varies. The very bottom of the port is 2 1/2 in like I want, but it slowly get's smaller so the top is about 2 3/8 in. This issue is only with the part of the port running along the side. The part of the port going along the back side is 11 1/2 x 2 1/2 like I wanted it to be. (yeah, one day I'll have enough money and time to be good at this stuff) 2. I used Gorilla Glue. Well, the glue expanded and there's excess dried glue bubling on the connect points inside of the port. I'm guessing all that glue would create some sort of turbulence for the port air. And I cannot trim off the glue because my port hole is to small for my hand to reach all the way in. So, the box ain't perfect, but how bad is it?

Yeah, I kind of thought it wouldn't matter much with my box because I didn't have a huge port. But, I do have another question now about my box. A few weeks ago I measured my SPL on a term lab (and met up with a bunch of SSA members in the process). Anyway, we did a sweep or something to see where my box peaked at, and it was 44 Hz. So, I got scored 134db @ 44 Hz. Is it right to tune a box in the low 30s and peak in the 40s? (BTW, I don't really care for pure SPL........but that was the first time I got to see a TL set up)

I asked this about the big basket proto BMs, but since it's a new design, I have to ask again: Will these BMs sound better in a sealed enclosure compared to the old BMs, which Electrodynamic actually recommended not putting in a sealed box? I actually wanted the big basket BMs when you said it would be better in a sealed box, but the mounting depth sucked. So I got over those, but now, it's a different story again. If you answer yes, then I'm stuck with the deciding between a single XBL^2 Mag or a pair of shallow BMs.

I'm looking for a new Alpine and I'm considering the CDA-9885 for $280 or the CDA-9887 for $330. $50 more get's me the Imprint Sound and 24bit Dac. What's everyone's opinion on the Imprint technology? And what improves when going from a 1bit DAC to a 24bit DAC?