ford302redneck

How about a 400+ amp, and ~100 at idle for a 01 F-250 with 7.3?

If I'm not mistaken, the 3500d is the same board as the Crunch GP3000dpro. Which we all know was one helva budget amp. Not saying AP is as good or better, but it does have a good board design. Now the parts could differ and cause it to make less power or have more problems. I do also think RD 3250v2 was the same, and it had tons of problems.

My thoughts exactly.

What would be the real point in having a "team"?

Nice.

Yes, that is next up, along with something else I am not releasing anything on until it is ready to roll. Sweet. Any hints? Lol

You can tune them by your eyes and nose and know if they are under to much stress or not. As in if they are moving to much and or you can smell the coils. But if you just barely smell them, it's not going to damage them. I'm just trying to throw out a suggestion. Hate to see somebody spend the extra money possibly not to gain much. But I'm sure if you keep the gains really low, and tried them, it shouldn't hurt them. Honestly, setting gains by a oscope doesn't mean you won't damage the subs either. Regardless, you should know in less than 30 seconds if they can't handle em or not. Just my opinion, if your just looking for new subs then don't worry about it. But if your looking for more SPL, try what you got. Then decide.

Reading the pole in one of those pictures, looks like a BTL SPL.

Its hard to say really, but you would need to double the power to hear a noticeable difference, and I doubt the 40.1 will do all that.

WOW!!!! How about 1 coil? How would I pay? You seemed surprised. How much did you think a recone kit was going to cost? $20 each?

How's the final price looking compared to the current Icon? Not looking for an exact price, but more of a small increase or whatever it might be.

Nice. Looks Bling Bling enough for me.

First, I'm going to go through and list the equipment I have then example and ask the questions. Ride- 01 Ford F-250 CrewCab Headunit-Kenwood X789 Sub Amp-ZX1500 Sub-12" Fi Q Box- 2.3cuft Net with two 4" Aeros tuned to ~30hz Ok, so I bought the amp off Craigslist for $50, and only thing it needed was sent off for warranty repair. And had the original receipt, so I got a basically refurb ZX1500 for $65($15 to ship). So when I got it back from Kicker, I wanted to test it, so I through my box in the back seat. The sub was wired in series, so 2.8ohms. Played it for a good little while, the sub showed no sign of stress, and was quiet loud. Not 150dB, but you get the picture. So I decided today to see if the amp would run at 1ohm. So I rewired it, and played where I had setting before. Now the sub reaches mechanical limits very easily at any frequency. So I turn down the sub control, until it could play without any problems, and it is terribly quite. And after 30 seconds, I could smell the coils getting hot. Not saying that's a problem, and I know why coils get hot, but why isn't it near as loud, yet its putting out more power? I have this happen before when testing my old Addictive Audio 500.1, in series the sub was fine and had zero problems, then I rewired to 1ohm(noted those amps do 5k+), it was super quiet and reach mechanical limits super easy. I knew the sub wouldn't handle it, but just tried it for giggles. Noted, at 1ohm, I seriously doubt the Kicker is clipping, I scoped my headunit, and had the gains all the way down. And didn't have near full unclipped preout voltage going to it.(Which is around 5volt) Now, with coils wired in series, its more possible its clipped.(No need to lecture me on clipping, I haven't blew a sub cause of clipping yet. I know the early warning signs if a sub is under to much stress.) This is kind of been racking my brain, which I know some of the mechanical problem is the sub doesn't have anything to load off of since its just sitting in the back seat. But why is series A LOT louder, but parallel seems to be putting out more power to cause the sub to go peak to peak easily. ***Note to those who want to post and act like I'm a noob, I'm not(a full noob anyways). We all have questions from time to time, and only way to learn is to sometimes shut up and just listen.

I think I'd actually buy the amp and try it on the Mayhem's. I really don't see a SMD being far superior with ~3500rms each, except maybe in the SQ department, but at that level, SQ really shouldn't matter that much. But I'm just saying, just because its a "bigger" sub, doesn't mean it will be louder. Sure, it'll handle the power a little better cause of the 4inch coil. But 3500RMS on a Mayhem isn't really going past its limits. Just want you to be prepared just in case you happen to upgrade but the output decreased or stayed the same. Not saying that is what's gonna happen, but it is possible I suppose.

I'll see what I can do.

I totally forgot all about it. If you really want one, I can do it in the next few days. I haven't even messed with it after this thread.

Knew that, just never applied it in this situation, thanks again! Gotta' learn somehow, eh'? I wanted to give a proper example but didn't have one right off the top of my head so I didn't. But at the end of the day, wire is wire, and most will work. Just some has different features that one might desire more than others.

The top picture, the copper terminal. There is more than just one size. My point was, welding wire 1/0 isn't as big as CA, so using welding wire ring terminals, you'll need a bigger size to fit CA wire. What's so hard about that? And your right its no big deal, but saying since you trim, the extra wire is pointless, which I don't believe is the truth. Basically sounds like your saying if the strands isn't touching whatever its connected to directly, its like its not even there, and useless. So like trimming 1/0 to fit 4gauge and now the 1/0 can only handle 100amps of current.

But you can get the top one in 2/0-4/0, which I'm sure will fit CA wire. And I don't see why you think its pointless? I get exactly what your saying, but you have no reasoning behind it. Honestly if price is a concern, making your own ring terminals can be quiet a bit cheaper. And can out just as the ones bought. Plus, you can get the correct size to fit your wire.

I noticed that. But i prefer to get all the wire in the ring terminal with the welding cable, rather than having to trim some down with the CA cable. Seemed pointless. If I want 2/0 I will get 2/0. Welding cable still meets the standards for 1/0, IIRC. Getting pure copper, be it a tad smaller than leading CA cable, cheaper than CCA I'm all over that But you can get pure copper car audio wire for same as welding wire. And if you use the correct ring terminals, you don't have to trim. But if you use 1/0 welding ring terminals, you will. But why would you think its pointless if you have to trim? Do you think just cause the wire isn't actually in the terminal, that its not getting used?

x2, looks real good and will look even more badass once you get some more of those chrome accent pieces off. Hopefully that will be soon. I want to paint the doorhandles and mirrors when I take the chrome off. And I'm waiting on the money to buy a 05 front end conversion, so I can do it all at once. So far I like the tires, they are a little louder than I'm use to, and according to reviews online, they aren't that loud.(which I hate to hear loud then). As far as 20s, well, I had 16" Welds on there before, and didn't really want to go back that small. And to me, 17s and 18s don't look as good as 20s in the same rim, as I was looking at. But I do get what your saying. Yeah, your telling me. Most used I seen was $2k+ or they fit the old Ford/GM/Dodge 8 lug pattern. So I feel very lucky I came across this deal. I actually wanted 35's but I couldn't pass these up. At first I was going to trade these tires for some 35s, but after I put them on, I decided to keep em. I really didn't think they would fit cause I only have a 4" lift. but surprisingly they only rub the leaf spring at full lock. And if you want to give her to me, I'll take her. Yes, 7.3. When I bought it almost 2 years ago now, it only had 94k miles. So its not hurt at all. I actually plan to sell it when I reach 150k miles(which is in 2 more years) cause the value will only be decreased by a little. And then I'll buy a 08-10 F-250. Anyways, I'm a agriculture farmer. I farm corn,cotton, and soybeans at the moment on a small scale really. Only 450 acres. But that's not by choice. The other farmers around here are sooooo greedy, they drive up the rent so high and take all the land, so the little farmers cant compete. Even though they aren't hardly making any money per acre. But I guess that's why they need 4000 acres to survive.

I have actually had these for almost 2 months, just now getting around to posting. I actually got a helva deal off Craigslist. And when I mean a helva deal, I mean if I would of bought them new, I basically bought one rim/tire and got three free. They are in good shape considering the price. The rims has a few flaws, but nothing major. Tires seem to have very little wear, I'd say less than 5000 miles. They are 20"x10" BMF S.O.T.A rims and 37x13.5R20 Super Swamper M16 tires. Which initially this combo wasn't my first choice when I had been looking for new rims/tires. But now that I have them, I like them better than what I wanted originally. So it worked out well. Now onto Pics. *I no long have the chrome around the fender *And eventually I won't have any chrome, but for the moment its staying on. And before anybody criticizes how dirty my truck is, realize I actually use it as a work truck. And right now is harvest season, so I stay riding around fields and dirtroads. And is impossible to keep clean so I don't bother washing it just to get right back dirty. Now, when I am done in a few weeks, I am however going to wash/wax, and maybe buff. So after that I will take some better pictures.

Yeah I don't think I could do 5 a foot, when welding cable and Knu are both cheaper. But it's pretty, i guess that sells more than anything. Its not that much prettier. But when compared to Kicker, RF and Memphis wire, prices is comparable. And Welding cable isn't exactly a fair comparison. Cause welding 1/0 is actually a tad smaller than most car audio 1/0, so that that into consideration, and isn't pretty for those people who like that. And you can get pretty wire for the same money. But $3 a foot for CCA seems a tad steep though, for us internet people anyways. Also, Kicker and Memphis wire looks very similar to the Power Flex, and they both have the same strand count, at 4704. Just seems XS Power wanted to get a little piece of the wiring market. Regardless, people will buy it to match their batteries.

Well, that can be looked at as a good thing. But that means prices must be to cheap. Lol.

Uh, this is Jakes job/life, sooooo why wouldn't he keep developing products? I assume he'll keep working until he retires or no longer able like most people.... But nice looking entry level I must say.