ford302redneck

I would assume it would be competitive, if not, I wouldn't see a real purpose.

M5, all I have to say is you have to learn that you can't change other people, you can only change how you act around them. Maybe less hostility could make people consider your words more? Oh yeah. I'd certainly feel that way, at the very least. Actually that doesn't work, tried it. My goal is to make you think. If you aren't willing to I don't care if I help you, but if you are I'll go the extra mile. This is exactly how I am, surprisingly.

I'm not sure why,but it doesn't bother me either. I just simply needed to make my point, that just cause you believe in something, it doesn't matter to anybody else so why make a big deal of it? I have my own beliefs, you have yours, that's all there is to it. If they don't agree, fine. That's our right, but no need to try and disprove either one, at this point in time anyways.

You trying to say Jesus Christ can't hit a curveball? Pretty sure he can't hit anything, I don't even think he's pushing up daisies anymore. He might be oil by now? Despite the rather serious nature of the thread, you are making it difficult to not lol Not everybody has to believe in a certain religion, if any at all. And btw, nobody gets a "new life", if you believe in God, you get a "after life". And since nobody has it as a 100% fact what we get after we die on earth, nobody can really say one way or another. But its their RIGHT to believe whatever they want. So if you believe everybody should believe in one religion or idea, maybe you need to go live in a country who MAKES you believe whatever they decided fOr YOU.

Exactly. And its not even mainly just about discriming people. We do it for almost everything in our life. Regardless, hating everybody of a body of people just cause of a few sterotypes is ignorance. But there's nothing we can do to stop it, so, complaining/worrying about it is pointless. So why even bother?

Actually check with a local dealer, it could be worth the time. I'm just saying. And honestly, SMD's aren't going to a huge difference from the Mayhems, minus the power handling. So unless your planning on adding power, a simple swap out might not yield in a noticeable difference.

Only thing I would like to point out is, the SMD has a different spider system than what you used. It uses thicker black ring, that has multiple mounting points. This covers up the former from being exposed where the triple joint is. As far as I know, Meade is the only one who doesn't have this ring, and has sown in leads instead of sandwiched. Not that it matters, just saying. Great job regardless.

One downfall to the 360.1(.2) is the Bluetooth is known to have problems. And should be noted.

Hmm, the cheapest I found out of all those was a bit ten on ebay for $400 from bulgaria. I'll have to read more on the minidsp, perhaps if I have it hooked up to a laptop I can adjust the crossovers on the fly. Otherwise I'm getting way out of my budget with a bit ten. How about a 360.1 or .2 used? I haven't looked lately but those new should be in the 300ish range I'd would assume. I actually am buddies with a RF dealer, so whenever I decide to go active, I'll be able to get one at a reasonable price. But as far as most easily controlled processor/crossover is going to cost 300+. Unless you go with a older used headunit, like the 9855(which I've always wanted one). Pioneer has a few options too. Check around classifieds though, you could possibly get lucky. I've noticed if your on a budget, patience is your friend. And usually if you wait and look hard enough, you will find a good deal. On a side note, what are you currently running and how is it installed? And have you tried everything you can to get the most out of it?

My advise is get a processor you can adjust via usb or Bluetooth, or is controlled by the headunit. Alpine has a option, the combo isn't cheap. RF 360.3(I actually would love one of these) Or the Audison bitONE.(I'm not sure if the new bitTEN will do what you want) But check those out if you haven't thought of them already. I honestly couldn't imagine tuning a external unit that you can't access seating in the drivers seat. Also, time alignment is a must.

Gas would be the problem there. I'm looking at Chevy Colorados with the inline 5 3.5l. Gas would be the problem there? I get 15 city and 18-19 highway. Name a 2001 8500lb(4x4) truck that seats 6(crew cab) and can pull over legal limit? And on top of that, engine longevity. When I was truck shopping, diesel had A LOT more pros than cons vs a gas. Also, depending on model, they can get quiet fast. My last time at the track, I ran a 15.3, with a small transmission valve body problem.(Doesn't allow the fluid to change the gear and causes a delay). The new F-250s can be even quicker. Some are in the 12s with just a tune and exhaust.(Single cab) then drive home getting 20+mpg.

Ford F-250 is the way to go. Chicks dig trucks, diesel trucks are better. Plus once you lose the spark plugs, you never go back.

I want a $3500 dollar program for free. Have no idea what I'd do with it but who knows what I might think of.

Not trying to be a dick but your reviews are all subjective and doesn't actually mean much. And unless you have actually owned each set and had them installed properly, its hard to determine anything you stated. Just like with subs, install is just as important on how a speaker will sound. Point is, people could read your post and believe every word you say, when actually it might not be true.

No offense to IA, but those are just some standard comps, nothing real special, so that's one main reason the price is very reasonable. Which isn't a bad thing. Which I'm sure IA designed these just to compete with other entry level comps but give options to people who like to "match" equipment.

You know that makes no sense. Not saying its your fault but regardless. For the most part, this is a 12 volt amp, and can take +4 volts above 12 volts but its bad to go less than 1 volt below? If it's seeing 16v at full tilt, then it obviously has enough amperage for the current draw. If it's dropping into the 11s at full tilt, there isn't enough amperage to satisfy the current draw, shit starts getting really hot. Or am I wrong? Do I believe dropping into the 11s for short amounts of time is going to instantly kill the amp? No. However, I do believe that if your driving down the road for 45 minutes playing at full tilt, and your voltage is in the 11s for the majority of the time, then yes I think that will eventually kill the amp. I owned a virtually brand new saz1500d v2 about six months ago, had it on good electrical, no issues, got slightly warm at full tilt, never hot. I only used it for about month then sold it on CL. I told the guy who bought it, that if he wasn't using additional batteries and/or a high output alternator, or gained down, that he would likely fry the amp. He called me two weeks later asking if I had a receipt for it, he fried it, wanted to see if the warranty would cover it. Does my story mean I'm right? Maybe, maybe not, maybe the amp was faulty and it just happened to break right after I sold it. I didn't mean it was your fault or your wrong, just stating in general. And I understand the theory of less voltage needs more current to make the same power. But in a unregulated amp, less voltage = less power. I just don't see how 11.5 volt is soooo bad but 16.5 is ok. If a amp can be designed to handle over 12volts, why isn't it designed to handle less than 12 volts, just a little bit less. Since any where in 11volts is horrible, even though 11.9 is only .1 difference.

You know that makes no sense. Not saying its your fault but regardless. For the most part, this is a 12 volt amp, and can take +4 volts above 12 volts but its bad to go less than 1 volt below?

Damn dude, sounds like you is having the worst luck with your electrical.

No, he lives in SC. I'm not exactly sure what that was about.

For your truck it's not going to be a hairpin unit, but we do build one that will bolt in place of the OEM in 270a and 320a. As for the Cadillac, email eric@mechman.com for a quote. I figured it wouldn't be a hairpin, since you just stated that. I'm just looking for a fair priced +300 amp alternator. And it seems idle is a big factor in price, and I don't necessarily need 200 amps at idle as I rarely play my setup sitting still. Plus, having a adjustable high idle setting, just in case I want to idle.

Go ahead and get the Zcon just incase you want to add more power.

Sweet prices. To bad I don't have any extra laying money laying around or I'd be spending it.

Does anybody have this? It was semi popular right after the song came out few years ago, and I've lost it over time. For those who don't know its, Rascal Flatts- What Hurts the Most. I'm not 100% if its boosted, or a whole new bassline, I can't remember. So if anybody thinks they have it, will you please upload it somewhere I can download it? Or a link to somewhere that has it already? I haven't searched really hard for it yet, figured I'd post and give this a try.

Thank you for welcoming me to the forum and adding to the review, ohh and even the sarcasm.... I have been asked on the phone and on other forums about reviews of our subs and this was done by a third party source that reviews several hundred products per year and we have no decision or ability to adjust their review of the product. This was intended to be a third party review and to introduce people to our products since we are new. If this is not acceptable or is unwanted on this forum, then please delete this post and I will not post here again. I have sent an e-mail to Mark and Aaron about becoming a manufacturer sponsor on the site and I am awaiting for there return e-mail. The Super Sonic 18 post that you found on the **** site was sent to a dealer in Winter Haven Florida and one of the 4 18's was damaged in shipping and the cone did break (it did not come unglued from the former). It was replaced within two days and it did a 150.8 sealed on the dash with 1 Audiopipe 3000.1 amplifier tuned to 40 Hz. and the wall was not closed of from the back of the Chevy Blazer. Yes the subs are hand built and yes there is holes in the basket for cooling but they are not hand drilled. The cones are vented under the dust cap and the leads are ran between the spiders and comes out through the top spider at the edge of the basket. As for the quality level, we build everything with the best possible parts from top to bottom and everything is over built but everyone gets to have their own opinion of what quality is. I'm glad to hear a response back, in all seriousness. I'm not in any way shape or form a mod / admin of the board, so nothing will be deleted heh. I'm just a schmuck, for lack of a better word. Personally I wouldn't mind you joining the forum, helping people out, getting a section setup for your products and specs, and lastly advertising. Just gets old when someone registers, advertises something, then leaves. I've also read that you guys are really knowledgeable, so I hope you can stay and contribute. They maybe, but I know one their old tech section showed a real lack of knowledge on there part. I don't know exactly how it was wrote, but it applied vented t-yokes indirectly caused clipping. Which I'm not the most knowledgeable person when it goes to that sort of advance discussion, which I've never took the time to actually learn more about it, but basically telling your future/current customers, probably over 50% of the drivers ever made, with vented poles, caused clipping and since SS had a solid pole, they are superior in everyway. Now, to me, cutting down a good portion of the whole industry's drivers just to convince and mislead customer to buy SS product seems really low. At the end of the day, you can lie, cheap, and promote your product to death, but if the product can't speak for itself alone, you won't have a very successful company in this industry. But what do I know? I have no company or do I design my own drivers. So more power to trying to hype up around the pretty much standard quality that's expected from a decent company. And that's about assembling in the USA with basically USA softparts. Which already plenty of companies already do, so its not like its real uncommon. And they even do it and sell their drivers cheaper.

Wow. Why would anybody want to run a 500rms amp below 1ohm? I don't really believe in below 1ohm load on any amp, even ones that is designed to handle it better. No offense, but if somebody is looking for more power for the price range of this amp, they might need to look into something else. I'm sure you can find a good bit more power for the money. It may lack in some areas cause off the cheaper dollar to watts ratio, but if wondering about the more power I assume it doesn't matter as much. And I'm not saying these are overpriced or anything. Just saying other amps are cheaper built, so for same money, put out more power.