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ford302redneck

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Posts posted by ford302redneck


  1. Also when looking at 55w you have to take into account that they will look more white. So a 6k 55w kit will look like a 5k 35w kit. Just mentioning it incase your looking for a specific look. Also please remember to aim your headlights. Lol

    Yes, I know this. I have read the DDM website....


  2. i'd just opt for the ddm 35w kit then, you seriously can not tell the 20% increased output from the 55w.

    and as i mentioned, everytime i've ordered from ddm, they got here in at least a weeks time.

    Straight from DDM's website.

    "This system provides 3200-3400 Lumens at 35 watts and an amazing 5000 Lumens at 55 watts per bulb. In comparison, a typical halogen bulb produces 900-1200 lumens. Our 55w HID kits are 40% brighter than the standard 35w kits. "

    Now, 40% seems a great deal, 1500lumens, I'm sure that's at 4300k, and I want to run 6000k, so I'll need the extra brightness to make up for the loss when running a higher Kelvin.


  3. The 35w kits are shipped from Cali, IIRC.

    But I'm still looking for another company/place.

    I've already heard plenty of good things about DDM, but waiting a month isn't something I want to do at the moment. And it seems to me, if you have a warranty problem, its going to take just as long. That is if their customer service is good enough to honor the warranty.

    I've still considered ordering from them, simply because I can't find another brand.(I'm sure there is, just not looking in the right place I assume)


  4. Perfect example of why the DD-1 is useless for setting gains on a amp.

    Distortion isn't the enemy, heat is. And setting gains going entirely on being "distortion" free and will cause just as many problems as not using one, because idiots won't consider the amp producing to much power since they think the gains are "set" properly.


  5. I'm only posting because I don't really have the time to really research myself.

    But I was looking into DDM Tuning and noticed people complaining how bad their customer service is, and the overall length of time its taking to receive your order and it seems its taking longer and longer. So to me, this usually isn't a good sign, definitely if I have a problem.

    So I'm looking for another brand or company that compares to DDM as far as price and quality(if you could call it that).

    I am willing to spend ~$75ish for each kit, 50watt low beam 9007 and H10 fog.

    Also, I don't have to have slim ballast's but it would be nice.


  6. What's confusing?

    Both have their pros and cons. Narrow them down to your install and find which best fits. Simple.

    Lol. Unfortunately, both sound like they'd fit my application- 4 18's (walled) on 2 SD5k's (6000w each).

    Have you looked at the comparison of the two? Narrow it down by which one best fits.

    If SPL, choose BTL, if more daily/demo(where you'll be playing on them for longer periods of time and need extra power handling) go for SP4.

    If your worried about weight, BTL.

    Simply.


  7. What I'm mean is that an 8 inch spider won't fit the basket I got from you.

    Why won't it fit?

    Only way I'm not seeing it fit is, if the spider is to big, or to small, where its not touching the fange.


  8. I have never had any issues with David. He has always treated me good. He has built me several subs that are still working perfect. I have dealt with him for about 7-8 years now.

    I was speaking to a mutual friend this morning (of David and I). He has been to PSI, says he was very impressed and said David has his shit together. My 2 cents, for what it's worth...

    Having his "shit together" doesn't mean he's parts and ect are up to par. (Even though I can't say first hand or would really think he would use such bad parts that was really subpar compared to other companies.)

    I'm just saying.


  9. I thought that Basket wasn't suppose to be sold through Fi?

    Nothing is etched in stone. Embrace the change. :D

    I'm glad Fi is finally using it.

    And the way Scott answered back when I asked right after word came around he had the rights to it, that their was an agreement it couldn't be used for Fi.(Not like it was needed exactly)

    But I assume things change.


  10. I can honestly say, I push my Gen 1 Q WAY past it's limits,regularly and it will not break.

    I mean, mechanically bottoming it out for a few seconds at a time, repeatly. The spiders look as good as new, with no signs of major wear.

    I can not for the life of me figure out how people break them. It seems almost impossible unless your a total idiot, and don't know what softparts sound like coming in contact with something its not suppose to. And the only way I can see it really breaking that way is ignoring the "funny noise" and keep playing it for a couple of minutes.

    *I like to push stuff to its limits and see if it holds. So no need to ask why, I do it on purpose.(Sorta, I don't play it just to bottom it out, but I have a good bit more power than RMS, almost double actually.)


  11. I haven't heard these in a vehicle but they're in my local shop's soundroom so I've messed with them a bit and compared them directly with a few others and must say that I'm not very impressed with them. I like the Kenwood, Kicker and DD stuff in there much more. I used to like the old BA equipment, maybe they are putting out inferior product now :ughdunno:

    How does this qualify as a good suggestion without any real reason? Besides being 100% subjective, listing what you disliked/liked about each product would of been a tad better.


  12. I got one more question.

    Was there any reason why you choose to do a vent ring instead of vent holes in the basket?

    But I guess you could always drill holes to create vents. Or have them machined.

    Vent ring allows me more flexibility to tailor the air-flow velocity, direction, and entry point. I can change it by just changing a ring as well rather than re-tooling my basket.

    If you note it comes in closer to the coil than if the basket was drilled or vented... also if you grab an SA driver the vents in the ring are NOT straight in, they have some shaping to them.

    I assumed there was a reason why, I was just curious basically.


  13. No big secret at all.......coil is a little longer 2 extra spacers extra spiders and so on...sub has a literal inch and a half more travel due to increased xmax and a few other things. No, it is not an SMD, I used to own a pair for those who know, and I started off with the traditional mayhems. In short I asked Scott to make me a Mayhem with every single thing from the SMD that could be added to the Mayhem and he did just that for me. Just posted cuz I wanted to share. If I've created a fuss, my apologies. At any rate, I can't wait to get the rest and start rebuilding!!

    The former is longer..not the wire.

    It does not have another inch and a half of more excursion...

    It's a Mayhem with the SMD style basket and spider reduction ring to use 8" spiders. It does have better rock ratio and cone control though due to the added depth :)

    This is what I assumed in the beginning.

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