rshay

I can pull it out and double check that again tomorrow. That would be awesome if it was something as simple as that. Is it possible that would cause the buzzing sound though? When I was trying to track down the sound earlier, it would go away if I placed by thumbs on the outter rubber surround and started again when I took them off. Nothing looks ripped, torn, etc. Physically the speaker looks perfect. It almost sounds like the carbon fiber cone is vibrating against the metal plug in the center, except the gap is equal all the way around when the cone is not in motion, so that looks fine as far as I can tell.

Ok, so.. I finally got these installed. I'm running them off a Sundown 125.2 and with a Pioneer 3300BT HU. I ended up fabricating some adapters. The stock 5x7 location now holds the tweeter and 3" mid. The stock 8" location holds the 6.5", and the crossovers are mounted inside the doors. First thoughts... when installing, the connectors on the crossover seem to be made for possibly 8 gauge wire? This made it a little difficult to get 16 gauge speaker wire to stay connected without pulling out. The screws actually cut the wire once because I tightened them too much. Another time, the wire for the tweeter must have pulled out after I got the door panel reinstalled. Needless to stay, I'm getting pretty quick at removing and replacing the door panels on my Mustang, ha. The sound is good overall, although I did have an issue with one of the 6.5" drivers getting too much bass. When the volume is turned up to 18 (out of like 50 I think) the passenger side 6.5 develops a nasty nasty buzz. At first I thought it was the factory speaker grill being hit but after pulling it all apart, it ended up being the speaker itself. I'm not sure if it's a bad driver or not, but the build quality is very beefy and seems well put together, so I don't think that the speaker itself is being pushed past its limit. Especially since it's only 1 of them that does this. My HU has a built in crossover, and setting the HPF to 80hz gets rid of the buzz, at least until much higher volume levels. I'm not sure if this is the final solution, but it's a working stop-gap for now. I do wish the 6.5's came with grilles, but that's a very minor point. For the price that I bought these at, they are a very solid set of components. If I had paid anywhere close to MSRP, they'd probably be going back to the store as I was just not 1500 dollars worth of impressed. Just my opinion, and YMMV.

This is what I ended up doing. I made some adapters to go from 8" to 6.5 and mounted it in the stock sub location. Then fabbed up a 5x7 adapter to hold the tweet & mid. I only have about an hour of daylight to work on it after I get off work so I've only gotten 1 door done so far and haven't gotten a chance to actually listen to it yet, but this let me keep the stock look and at least I don't have to worry about where I'm going to mount everything. At least this way I'll have a reference point without the 8's and can go from there if I don't like it. Thanks for the feedback! Edit: Also, cutting plastic cutting boards with a dremel is a mess!

I don't know that I necessarily need it.. which is exactly why I posted. The only reason that I'm even considering it, is because the Mustangs (with the Shaker 500) come stock with an 8" sub in the doors. I could always just pull it out and use the space to mount the crossover for the Bravox 3-way. The entire build was planned to consist of: Pioneer 3300BT HU Kicker KQ5 EQ Bravox CS603CF components - with Sundown 125.2 2x JL 8W1V2 in doors - with Sundown 125.2 1x JL 12W7 in rear - with Sundown 1500D If it'll sound just as good w/o the 8's, or if I wouldn't be able to tell they were even there in the first place, then I can save myself a nice little chunk of cash.

Definitely not. I've got a Kicker KQ5 from a while back that does 7v pre-amp outs.. hopefully shouldn't need much gain at all. Also, a majority of the bass is going to be coming from a 12W7. I just want the 8W1's in the doors to help fill out the frequencies between whatever I end up having my W7 tuned to and the 6.5" midrange from my Bravox 3-way components.

The JL 8W1V2's are 4-ohm, and rated at 150w according to JL's site. The 125.2 is rated at ... 125 x 2 RMS @ 4 ohm. I think a 125.2 would be sufficient for a pair, but wanted to ask before buying incase someone knows of a reason why this is not a good idea. Thanks!

I got mine today as well. Pretty quick shipping I'd say! Taking these out of the box was impressive to say the least, I can certainly see why they have the MSRP that they do. If they sound as good as they look.... oh man. Now, I just need to figure out how to mount them in a Mustang. I must have missed the pictures at the beginning of this thread because I didn't realize how massive the crossover actually was, haha. Should make for an interesting install though, I'm sure I'll figure something out! Thanks again!