SikSS

No one have any experience with one of these? I was hoping to buy one to upgrade from a 12. I only have 450 watts and the 12 seems to be pushing. I can get it local for a reasonably good price already boxed, I've seen nothing however on it's box specs and would make my own box. I'd like to get a MAW-15 D4, but none available. Thanks.

Has anyone had them? I'm looking at a minor upgrade from a MAW12. I've got that ported 2ft box @28hz. This one's mint. I've got a 450w amp at 2ohm's and this PXW 1542 is a dual 4 but rated 600-1000w. I like the sound of the 15's, seems much deeper, not sure if it's be louder. I did have a Clarion Deck in the past and was disappointed.

Just to follow up on my adventures, I went to Sayal Electronics and picked up some foam surrounds that after much prep work to clean and sand off as much of the old glue as possible, found didn't exactly fit. They were off by a smidgeon, and as I lined up my first sub, did so incorrectly and now it flubbers...the second worked out great, except that as the foam is generic, not wide enough to cover for the full extention of the cone. Anyway, the second sub I worked on seems to play well enough until you crank some rap into it. My conclusion is...It's just not the same. So, I've decided to replace them instead. Now, I've got a friend who's selling 2 older Rockford Fosgate 15's but they are single coil 4 ohm, while the 15"s I had in there were 8ohms. If my speakers were 3 way(3 speakers wired per speaker box: tweeter/mid/sub), each I'll assume 8ohm, then wired to the amp, Is there a way I can wire the pair of these 4 ohmed subwoofers in series or parrallel to make them work as an 8ohm and still have the mids and tweets play as normal? I've heard that you make the amp work harder if you run them as 4ohm instead of 8ohm, and as my amp only 50watts/channel, probably not a good idea. It's an older AKAI AM-UO1 Your help would be appreciated. If it can't be done, I'm going to attempt to build some, but only 2 way bookshelvers.

Funny you say that....... I just joined the DIYForum just to investigate options. Geez, now that I have some half decent tools, I might do just that as a winter project. Sounds like fun too.

They are a Cerwin Vega Model and made of paper. Now that I've looked at it more carefully comparative to a metalic speaker I have, it looks like a lot more trouble than it's worth. I may have to pic up a set of MAW-15's or something. If that's the case, I'll go smaller, attempt to reuse the wood and take a pot shot a building something like a 10 or 8". Sounds like a good winter project....

I have a set of older cabinet speakers with 15" subs. The foam surround has disintegrated for a lack of a better word. I'd like to keep the speakers. The cabinet was made by a friend out of birch many years ago and he did an amazing job with them. Where or how would one go about getting them replaced, and if so, would it be worth the cost and expense. I'd do it myself if it was easy enough. Any advice would be appreciated.

Yahoo! Thanks again Mark!!!!!!!!!! Off to Home Depot I go.

I'm trying to come up with a ported box using the http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html, for my MAW-12. I've come up with the following, just wondering if it's right. I've gone to a bunch of other design programmes but they seem to require metric conversions to be made or info I don't see on the specs for the sub. The measurements I've come up with are the following: Using 3/4 MDF, 24X15X15X15, Port 1.5x13.5, with this I come up with a tuned freq of 28.62 which is right around the specs of the MAW-12. Now, the box volume listed is 2.019 feet with this design, is this the net box volume including those 2 extra sheets used to create the port inside the box? I guess I'm supposed to get to 1.8 cubes per Sub Specs, so I'll probably do so if the sub uses an internal volume(which I don't see on the subs spec sheet but am assuming its .27cubes per discussion with Mark in a previous email. I did build a sealed box which I'm quite happy with, but would like to try a ported design to see how much difference there is. I'm finding that it's very particular and you could make a lot of mistakes if not done right first hand. Looking for some help or if someone could review my specs above or already has a good tried and true programme they can forward, I'd be very appreciative. Thanks.

My buddy and I were reading all your replies on my blackberry while on our way to Princess Auto in Hamilton, Ontario(a tool and supplies centre) to pickup balljoint splitters and steering wheel puller. It got him thinking enough that we ended up going to the lumberyard just down the road to price some better plywood. We were both kind of shocked at the price per sheet 4x8 (3/4") Birch, Appleply and a few other types of "high density" ply's. He was adamant to try and make an improvement, so we went with 2 sheets of 3/4" high density MDF(on sale no less), bought a predrill bit, some nice screws(fewer but wider threads), glue and some caulking as well to make sure air doesn't escape the box. Even picked up some polyfill at Walmart. We got to work building the box the exact same size today, but thought I'd check the web to find the specs on the sub and it say's that you need to build a 1.50 cubic foot box, plus the sub space taken, not the 1.8 he used for the sealed sub. He was happier that it was supposed to be smaller. So we got it built in about an hour, spent another 2 hours letting it dry with a high-wattage lamp facing it. He'll carpet later, so he says. Got the sub into it, after playing around with lining the sides with the polyfill, wired it all up and wow, definitely a difference. It seemed to hit notes better, was definitely a bit louder but generally the quality of sound was much better. It seemed to rattle the trunk lid a lot more than previously. This is one really nice sounding sub let me tell you. Way way better than the Rockford Punch he had in there before. All in all, definitely an improvement. I think we narrowed down the power issue to the amp though. It must not be putting out the wattage we thought even though it say's it has more than my MTX 5 channel(460wts tops on the subchannel) or he's layed a good beating on it. He's going to look for a deal down the road. Me... I'm glad I've got the Mach5 MAW-12, but makes me want to go to a MAW-15. The diff in a 12 to a 15 is considerable. I may make another box myself, but a vented one this time to improve the low's to get it to sound like a 15 if thats possible. Just have a hard time giving up trunkspace. Anyway, thanks all for you're input. It's greatly appreciated!

JBL GTO 1504 D is what he has as he's found his box, he was wrong when he said it was a 650wts capable it's actually more I think. It has RMS Wattage of 300, but power handling of 1200W, says that on the box. I don't know what that means compared to my Mach5 MAW-12 which is rated for 350W of power handling. I know I paid 3 times less than he did and feeling pretty proud of that.

You're mentioning you need more info on the setups, I'm thinking highly specific technical dynamics which I don't think I'll get from him? Generaly he built a sealed box to suit the specs of the sub. We are running off similar power in wattage, or at least that's the way it seems. His box and sub are bigger and can throw pretty well all the power to it, while as I crank the volume up on mine, and up the power on my subchannel, the sub starts working too hard. But there is a point at which seemedly the volume level is matched. I'm not seeing any abnormal flexing in his box, if that's possible, and hearing a very clear and very nice hit. The plywood he's using is basic grade 5/8" flooring plywood(sanded on both sides and you could see there are about 5 sandwiched layers) which he has screwed the crap out of, but never bothered gluing or sealing...It's currently screwed into his rear quarterpanel with 2 metal L shaped brackets and so no movement. I guess the gravity is doing the rest. I was hoping that the answer would be clearcut to win my point, but will have to admit to him I'm not right or wrong, but there are more intangibles that I'm not going to spend too much time considering on his behalf. I really like my MAW-12 but wish I had bought a MAW-15 now. I'm sure the 460Wts I have out of my MTX 895.5 on my subchannel would have been able to take more power and provide an even better quality and voluminous sound. Shoulda woulda coulda...it's my first sub. Sound is definitely an addiction, and although I've had my system in for a few months, I'm thinking I should upgrade. My wife keeps my grounded however.

I've got a pal who I'd like to tell is wrong, but need some technical advice to confirm my intuition. I have a Mach5 MAW-12(350wts) I've built a 1 cube(plus sub space taken) sealed box for in 3/4 MDF, as per spec's and am running off an MTX Amp with 460wts max. My good friend purchased 1 15" JBL apparently capable 650 watts(don't know the model, but a new purchase), and running off an older PG 500 wt amp. He has built a temp box he's happy with, about 1.8cubes sealed, but made of 5/8" plywood. Although his lows seem to be lower, I don't think his volume nor his sound could be if he built a new MDF Box, instead of the plywood box he currently has. I don' think he's getting the volume he should, and don't think it's much louder than my 12 to tell you the truth. It doesn't sound nice though. Would his box make all the difference to improving his sound and his volume?

You're right but it was much easier to test that way and ask the general question than to tear the door panels apart again to test them in their potentially ultimate environment(plus my wife is sick of me spending my weekends installing stereo equipment and not getting to build that patio deck). I figured with the shallow mount, lightweight magnet compared to the beefy MLI's it would be a night and day situation if was a manageable working swap, but then again, it sounds like the latter is not a possibility.

Ok, I'll put this out to those who are definitely not as technically challenged as I. I went garage-saling, and picked up a set of used Infinity Ref 6000cs's for $30. Have since tested them and work fine, just not enough base for me. I tried them in a small 1/3 cube homemade box to test them. Now, is it possible to just replace the Infinity Woofer with an MLI-65 and get much better base(sound quality and punch) with a cold swap ? There are really no "adjustments" that can be made on these crossovers except to go -3db's on the tweets. Just wondering...

Figured it out. Thanks.