scottxgtr

to figure out the amount of port area needed is going to vary by woofer. you want enough room for the sub to breathe. too small and the port velocity increases which can cause noise. back in the day i used 10 sq inches per cubic foot of box as a guideline. but that was dealing with smaller woofers. with todays high xmax woofers more port area is recommended, usually around 15 sq in per cubic foot of volume. so if you build a box that is 5 cubic feet in volume, you will want somewhere between 50 and 75 sq inches of port. the port opening can be 5x10" or 4"x12.5" or any other combination you want. just dont do something stupid like 1"x50"

you said round ports, and not aeros. if you want us to correct you, we need to know what you are using. but yes, 2 6" aeros will be fine

youre going to choke that 18 with only 2 4" ports. you want a minimum of 10 sq in of port per cubic foot of box. and thats a minimum, 12-15 cubic inches is better.

thermalskin or thermoskin neither is approved by my spellcheck

packaged received. thanks jacob.

<<see avatar 17" vs 18"

as we head into mid june, is everything still on schedule jacob?

they are nice subs. pretty much a 15" IDMAX since ID never churned any out. sub price is good. shipping is a little high. Call him out on it and ask why its so high. if his response doesnt include the term "crate" than tell him you shipped similar subs for less.

nicely done gentlemen. if i wouldve known an update was coming i wouldve waited a couple days on the 100.4 do you get emails from 2 year olds complaining of the difficulty? lol . . . . . (imagines a toddler carrying a Xcon 18) . . . .

interesting. im down. of those 4000 topics, how many are "A vs B" threads

i caught some bad mexican food one day and took a shit as loud as an 800 watt system. i think 1000w is possible from a shit as soon as i find the tuning frequency of my toilet. back on topic, if you are running 1/0 to your amp, then shouldnt you run 1/0 for the big 3? seeing how youre gonna have to order more than 3 feet of wire anyhow.

bringing up the dead here, or maybe i missed the specs. anyone ever turn up some numbers for the carbons? RMS? FS? etc i can guess some ballpark numbers but id rather be certain

Pretty sure that doesn't matter at all. Thanks for not helping yet again. you do realize that as a wire gets longer it has more resistance, and needs to be thicker to prevent burning up. especially in high power applications. if you dont know what you are talking about, keep quiet and learn.

lol. somebody try it with a sub with some more ass. BTL perhaps.

this is a problem i see alot. everyone is all about buying the top of the notch stuff, then skimping on other stuff they think is not important (but really is). you dont put regular gas in a Lambo. you gotta use premium. the tires are also expensive. the insurance is expensive. if you cant afford those, you might as well not buy the car. you can do it right once, or you can do it wrong as many times as you want until you learn. ask anyone here, and they will tell you doing it right the first time will save you a lot of money in the long run. if you cant afford it now, you save until you can, or you redesign your plan. if you want 4 18s, but you can only afford 2, thats fine. start with 2. but plan ahead enough so when you get the other pair you dont have to redo your setup, just add too it.

caps lock is a no no. its considered shouting on the internet and pisses people off. that and it is much harder to read than standard text. also learn to search the forums. a lot of topics get covered often. so instead of starting a new topic to get an answer, search and find one. chances are youll find a lot of other questions answered in a previous thread. and this leads to learning a little more about everything. and as stupid as this video is, its worth a watch http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

answers not in caps lock I WANT TO KNOW HOW MANY BATTERIES DO I NEED. the question really is how many can you fit after you put in the box. go for 1 per sub if plan to actually power them well HOW MUCH POWER. check the rms rating of the sub. you will want around that number for daily use. double for spl use WHAT KIND(S) OF ALTERNATOR(S) DO I NEED. high output ones. find the current draw of your amps so you know what kind of load they will present. then find some high output alternators for your truck. a pair of 200a should be a good start, and chances are there is a kit for your truck available WHERE DO I FIND A DIGITAL VOLT METER THAT IS IN THE SHAPE OF A SQUARE THAT HAS BLUE NUMBERS? check either stinger or tsunami WHERE SHOULD I PUT THE PORT IN THE BOX FOR ALL 4 SUBS. where ever it fits. it depends on the design SHOULD I HAVE ONE OR MORE PORTS. depends on the design STRAPPED AMPS OR NOT? depends on the amps EPICENTER OR NOT? id say no EQ OR NOT? depends on if your head unit has a sufficient one or not. HOW MANY 6X9'S SHOULD I GET. depends on how many you think you need. might want to look into 6.5" component sets instead. they sound better HOW MUCH DYNOMAT, DAMPLIFIER, OR SOUND DEADENER. start with 200 sq ft WHAT KIND OF AMP SHOULD I PUT MY 6X9'S TO. depends on how many. refer to the rms ratings again. then pick a manufacturer and go from there AND I WANT THAT BUTTON THAT MEADE HAS. NOT JOCKIN HIM BUT THAT IS COOL. okay. not familiar with his magic button, but you can probably find the answer on his forums AND ANYTHING THAT I SHOULD KNOW AND UNDERSTAND. read read read. search search search. learn learn learn. and while you are at it, a little internet etiquette would garner you more positive answers

you ball park it to begin with. get a rough idea of how much space you have vs how much space you need. build the enclosures mold and check its volume with a measureable media. water would be the most precise, but a dry media is easier to use. again, smaller media will be more exact. sand works well. or kitty litter. i am partial to styrofoam peanuts since they are easy to clean and carry around. fill the form with them. then start dumping them into a measureable container, like a cardboard box. so if your box is 12x12x12, then everytime you fill the container with peanuts you have 1 cubic foot of space. say you were shooting for 3 cubic feet, and you come out with 3.5. if you absolutely must have 3 cubic feet, then you need to displace .5 cubic feet of space inside the box. so put something in the box. some bracing. a styrofoam block. your neighbors kitten. it doesnt matter, as long as it is securely mounted and takes up space. and dont over-calculate yourself into a nervous wreck. there is a margin of error in box building. anywhere between 5-10 percent wont cause damage to your equipment.

ive thought about doing something similar. good to see someone else pull it off since im too lazy to try. nice work sir!

$300 will get you the materials to do 2 doors. that would leave another $300 to cover labor. youd have to be desperate to take that job, or really enjoy sanding fiberglass (who doesnt? )

$2000 - 4 fully loaded btls $1630 - 2 sundown 3500 amps (yours wont cut it for long) $1000 - batteries. one large battery per sub $1000 - dual high output alternators $1000 - enough dynamat to do a suburban (fully) $500 - 1/0 wire at $4 per foot $250 - assorted terminals, fuse holders, etc $250 - 3/4 mdf at $25 per sheet thats $7630 and ive only put about 2 minutes worth of thought into it. add in shipping for the above items and itll be higher. dont try to compete with meade. if you ask "why 10 grand", youll never reach his status

ill have to look at it a little more. everything looks pretty standard so far. seems like everyone is getting their new version ready. i look forward to vbulletin releasing version 4.0. not a big fan of all the myspace like features they keep adding to forums

welcome to the site man. you have a lot to learn and this is the place to do it.

needs more tape

just a little paint. im sure there is some prep work involved. last time i checked, mdf absorbed paint pretty well, leaving a not too pleasant appearance. might be some kind of sealer or fiberglass resin underneath.