scottxgtr

youll need to find out what ohm load that amp is built for. home audio and car audio dont always mix in that department. research that amp and see if its peak power is at 4 ohm. if so, you should be able to get a Fi woofer that will work perfectly. if its peak power is 8 ohm, then a Fi sub will still work, but it might seem like its lacking the oomph you are used too.

are you allowed to use a podium in the class you compete in? that will solve the vibration problems. i know in some organizations you cant be inside the vehicle past a certain db level (150db i believe)

ive seen them used in power equipment as well. the scissor lift at my old job had 4 of them wired up to 24v. real heavy duty battery, and we abused the shit out of the equipment and the batts lasted several years

bookmark this thread for a revisit in 4 years and youll be amazed at how much youve learned. especially the differences in AC and DC that said, i wouldnt hook them up to the amps output. thats asking for trouble. and leds vary in voltage a little but most go up to 4v. sometimes if you buy on ebay they solder a resistor and some wire and call it "12v ready" so make sure you know exactly what you have. any mistakes will result in dim leds or burnt leds.

the first thing i would do would be to remove the sub and inspect the box and sub inside and out. have you done this? second, i would recommend going over your amps settings again and make sure you arent clipping the signal, overheating the coil, and sending your sub into a premature failure.

thats sort of a myth or old wives tale. certain construction adhesives and silicones let off a gas as they cure and the myth is this gas reacts with the surround and degrades it. in my experience, i have never seen such a thing. and besides, you should be using wood glue anyway, which doesnt do any of that nasty out gassing. as far as the box, it will behave like a 6th order bandpass, or what the12volt calls a dual reflex bandpass the center section will act as a port so its size and length will act to tune the front waves from the sub. that said, you're probably going to be in experimental territory on this one. i wouldnt know where to start on figuring this one out. i had a friend try it with 8 12s in a blow through on a single cab chevy. he didnt really do much math on the center section and just ballparked it. ended up sounding decent, getting loud, etc. but you never know if there was missed potential there.

not until you mentioned it. not like living in biloxi is something to brag about either. haha

2 hours is nothing. ive driven 8+ hours to go to worthy shows. the bass is out there. you have to go find it.

crimping 1/0 with a hammer is vague. before i got a vice, i used a large flathead screwdriver that had a broken tip. ground it so it had a nice flat wide point pounded it in the center on the terminal with a 3lb mini sledge. is it as pretty as the hydraulic crimper? no. but that terminal was on there good. once i got a vice i started pressing a piece of 1/4 solid steel into the center of the terminal in a similar manner as described above. works just as well just less noise and risk of bodily injury. if i could come across one of those crimpers for $30 id probably splurge on it, if i had a project coming up.

"10% is the Equipment and 90% is the Installation" just means you can spend as much money as you want, but if you clip the amp or your box isnt built to specs, then even the most expensive equipment can sound like shit. welcome to the boards. youll find lots of valuable information here

i thought nick bought someone elses (chad maybe?) old hardbody? that one belongs to pipo. you can google that. his car domain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2149125

i see as well. N1 has a single neo slug, offset to one side N2 has dual slugs, horizontally opposed that just leaves the N3 which, following whats been shown already, should look like the prototype with the Y shaped plate. the SG though has me wondering. the other SG(superguass) woofer i know of has 2 motors. the thought of 2 N3 motors bolted together is insane.

what do you have in mind instead of the W3? and what is stopping you from ordering it, removing and selling the W3, and using just the enclosure?

clipping destroys speakers, you know. irony. clipping destroys speaker and here we are talking about a malfunctioning speaker. pics would help us better understand. the lead is just as long as it was when it came from the factory. so perhaps you soldered it too far, or oversoldered it so it is less flexible. you could make an extension of the terminal with some copper wire and solder to that, pending it doesnt cause an obstruction. also, does your btl have the spl option?

im running a havoc 12 off on a sundown 1500d with no issues.

the answer to that is totally dependent on the person operating it. if you have to ask, chances are you are not one of those people. i also suggest checking out the box. its not hard to reverse engineer a box and determine size and tuning. ive seen shops build crappy boxes before just to try and sell you their preferred brand of speaker in a different box.

ported 12.

how about we keep only the truth in this thread? we are trying to help him arent we? as far as strapping, you dont have to strap the amps. you can build a box that has the woofers/ports separated and have no worries. that way even if you blow one, you can still play the other. or they can still share a chamber and you can match the gains. a little less perfect of a situation but definitely doable. or you could sell the 1200, and buy a bigger amp. ohm load depending.

old Q for reference, Q is on the right (havoc on left)

face meet palm . . . . (patiently waits for thread about how his amp got fried) . . . . .

im willing to bet the amp is going into protect mode. what is your gain and bass boost set to? acceptable answers should be in the format of 50% or 1 o'clock on the dial and to repeat what everyone else is saying, your radio should be for your enjoyment. if you continue to blatantly share it with others, they will feel like it is theirs too, and decide to borrow it for the weekend. . . . . (patiently waits for thread about how his shit got stolen) . . . . .

business wise the difference between a ported box and a sealed box is dramatic. a ported box is going to take more materials (upwards of 50%), more time to construct, and more time to engineer. thats on the production side though. engineering time is a one time cost. labor should be a constant cost. materials are based on a commodity and will be variable, but relatively constant and predictable. as far as marketing, a ported box is going to be louder. a loud box is going to be a selling point, especially if your box is "louder" than your competition. this is why most prefab boxes have a high tuning frequency. the higher tuning results in a higher peak therefore a "louder" box that can be proved by a decibel meter. the downside is sound quality is less than optimal but that is less of a selling point. unfortunately the subwoofer market is driven by the desire to be "loud" and less about sounding "good". but as a business person you are at the mercy of your customers. you can mass appeal with a "loud" box, or tailor your product to a niche market with a properly constructed enclosure. i just want to throw this out there, but if you are in college as a business major, i would advise switching to something more specific or in demand. at least switch to accounting and get a cpa. otherwise you will be entering the real world with the college equivalent of a GED. a business degree doesnt mean much these days. trust me, i know. i got mine in 07

and you are working with plywood, so splinters are a plenty. blades are normally labeled pretty well. a fine cut (high TPI) will cut slower and smoother with less splinters. great for detail work. a rough cut (low TPI) will cut fast and dirty. you can clean up the edges with sandpaper but larger splinters will still show. when you work with mdf it is a little more forgiving because it doesnt splinter. TPI = teeth per inch

go back to lowes and buy one of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_234114-355-16-059_0__?productId=3199763&Ntt=compass&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dcompass then carefully draw a perfect circle and then carefully cut out a better circle. make sure the jigsaw has a decent blade and take your time. make sure to turn off any orbital or "turbo" settings so it cuts slower and allows better control. clamp it to a work bench so it doesnt jump around on you. basic woodworking 101. a lot of us cut our teeth with a $30 jigsaw and $40 circular saw. once you learn the basics or decide to go all out you can splurge on routers with circle jigs and table saws and etc.