audio-neon

Diamond audio d7 amps. They were pure sex.

My biggest concern at the end of the day is making sure she has all that she needs so that she doesn't go back to cigarettes. I don't smoke anything and never have. I know she wants to quit, but with all of her smoker friends in college cold turkey hasn't worked. And she needs something to do while in the car as well.

Have you had any issues with batteries yet? That was one our biggest issues with the eversmoke. The batteries didn't last long at all.

Buy yourself a fluke 117 or 115 if you can get the 115 on sale. You really won't need more than that. It's one of the best investments I have ever made.

It all comes down to how much space you have. Well built amps are designed to handle vibrations. That's not to say that you can't damage an amp with vibration, but you can take simple steps to reduce or isolate the vibrations transmitted.

If I were to go with the ego twist set up. Which batteries and sstuff should I look at?

So is the Halo triton starter kit a good place to start to get my girlfriend? She has ever smoke e cigs and never uses it, but the idea of liquids interests her. She hates smoking and only smokes a half a pack a day. I know nothing but I know that you fine gents can help me.

Sucks that the escalade can't fit decent size drivers in the doors. My old patriot could fit 9" drivers in the door with no modification. But the escalade is a big upgrade in all other regards. I can't wait to see what you do with it.

Turbos are not CARB certified and technically due to the fact that they modify your exhaust can be considered an emissions violation depending on the laws where you live. Superchargers come without exhaust modification, therefore no emission system changes.

Probably the best sound quality deck on the market for less than $1000.

It's easy enough to rig up something if you have a table vise and some ingenuity. The large Guage crimper that I have at work is stupid expensive for what it is.

None of them will have "sound quality". And I have to admit that I've never run my headunit with an amp or in a car that didn't have a broken exhaust. And m5s shitty is acceptable to most people. His standards are incredible, but at the end of the day it's about what you like.

I don't think you can go wrong with that. I just picked up the jvc one that I had for a beater car with no amps.

Picking drivers and installation go hand in hand. Some of the others can explain this better but you will need processing and adequate power. A minidsp should be enough processing for the front stage only. You will need two for if you want digital crossovers and equalization for the sub woofer. After determining how much space you have for your speakers, you will be tasked with choosing the drivers for your installation. After choosing the drivers you will need adequate power.

I love my jvc media head unit, it doesn't have a cd player which worried me at first, but probably the best 100$ audio investment I have ever made. I use it for pandora, as my phone doesn't have any music on it, but the deck also had a front usb which was hooked up to my ipod. With technology the way that it is, there really isn't much a bluetooth connection can't do, other than audiophile level streaming.

So as many of you know I have built several car systems, but I have never had the pleasure of using decent speakers for my front sound stage. So I am looking for suggestions. The vehicle is a 2003 Honda Element, Speaker locations as of this point will be factory. (6.5" door, tweeters in a-pillar). The car does have the integrated amps and sub, but I will be removing all of that eventually. The build will not take place for a while, I'm just starting to plan my build. I will be looking at running an active set up. I am also willing to take advice on amps. I currently have no equipment that I will be re-using. This will be a fresh build. Any thoughts on: TAngband underhung http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-1721-6-1-2-underhung-midbass-driver--264-874 vs Fountek fw168 http://www.parts-express.com/fountek-fw168-6-1-2-aluminum-midwoofer-speaker--296-729 vs Dayton pm180 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pm180-8-6-1-2-wideband-midbass-neo-driver--295-343 I am thinking something like this for tweeter: Tangband shielded neo tweeter http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-25-302sh-1-shielded-neodymium-dome-tweeter--264-804 Budget is undecided, however I would like to stay around 300$ for two midbass/tweeters. I am also open to suggestions for pods/installation, and I understand there are probably better locations for the speakers, but as of this point I don't see kicks being practical due to the usage of the vehicle.

Heated steering wheel is neat and all, but I prefer the heated side mirrors.

Sean, it's the same reason I'm getting the element... Pretty much the same list minus the handling and go fast parts... although they did make a factory supercharged element .... wheee!

wrap the plastic pieces in suede? Would definitely be different and add a more luxurious feel. At least it has a pretty decent amount of sound deadening from the factory, but could always use more. I remember disassembling a brand new fully loaded yukon denali. And while the seats were awesome, and the retracting side step.

I figured it would work for the "indoors testing" set up, and my laptop has a 9.5 hour battery life, so it could definitely see double duty.

What about a mini dsp. I know it would cost more than the rest of the parts, but would that be able to handle the processing, and crossovers needed?

Sounds good to me, not many companies around that warranty the warrantied replacement beyond the conditional "manufacturer's defects warranty". Also I wasn't trying to imply that you were trying to profit from warranty repair, simply that it would be an acceptable loss. Rarely do companies break even on warranty repair.

Couldn't you simply use the original warranty date? Most companies I know of do this, although that could open it's own can of worms if you aren't set up to keep track of orders and file them in such a way to see when everyone orders their gear. Or I am to assume that you expect to be able to repair enough amps and resell to "break even" with the situation you just mentioned.

Middle fingers are important. Probably the most important fingers to have depending on where you live and the amount of stupid drivers.

Personally if I were into buying amps, I would love option #3. I understand that some cost would need to be recouped at the time of warranty exchange, but I love the fact that it is to the person who is doing the exchange, and not to everyone buying the amp.. My question would then be would there be a limit to number of exchanges, or would original warranty remain in effect.