djtomczak

I plan on running either one sa8 v2 or two v1.5s. They both would end up being about the same price ordering the 1.5s from woofercooker reconed. These will be going in a 4th order band pass. My question is are the v2s so much of an improvement that I should get one of those or would two 1.5s be louder? I was too focused on 18s while the whole sa8 train was going around so I missed all the info on them. Thanks.

Well looking at the woofers I'm probably going with the GCON because of the 3inch coil, and then the AQ750. Thanks Rick!

Would that amp be harder on electrical versus a different amp with the same power at two ohms?

It will take a while to decide between those two... But how about an amp now?

Guess I won't be going with a fourth order then. What do you suggest then within my budget and under 1000rms? I'm looking for loudest possible. What are the real advantages of fourth order anyway?

Aren't 4th orders louder then regular ported?

My budget is 200 for an amp and 200 for a woofer, I can go a little over if needed. I'd like to use the least space possible but a fourth order sounds like a good project.

What do you suggest? The 8s just appealed to me because they require little space and power.

I'm looking for most output with 1,000 rms or less. I was running into electrical issues with my old system so I had to tear it all out. Oh and I have the whole back of my escape to work with.

Exactly what I was thinking, just needed some confirmation.

So this just recently started happening. I'll be driving normally with the bass going at a decent level, not blasting but a decent level. Then just randomly my escapes information panel will say check break system then the traction control on, traction control off, abs, and parking break lights will all show up. All this happens for half a second accompanied by an alert tone. This only happens on punchy bass. I've checked all connections and they are fine, the battery holds a good charge, the alternator is still putting out, and voltage stays above 14 when this happens. Any ideas?

I used an amp probe before and found the most I draw is a litle under 100 amps on the 1 channel and about 30 on the four channel. So yeah way more than the car can handle. In conclusion I need another battery, ground ran to the battery, and another alternator? I've installed this all my self knowing the risks, but what all could be harmed by the stereo that I could have the dealership check. I have family at the dealership by me so I could easilly get replacement parts under warranty.

I'll check it out with my scan tool when I get home. When going hard with the bass it can sometimes go below 12v but when I see that I turn it down. The alternator brings it back up to 14.3 quickly. I've checked all the connections and nothing is touching and all of them are tight. Ill email you, scampo, when I get home with the vin. Grounds in the back are taken from the floor in the back, sanded down and screwed directly to the frame. Ground from the battery is directly to the body as well. This is not a consistent problem, certain notes set it off at certain times. Power for amps comes directly from the battery.

It's an optima red top, I'll go check the voltage now. It has been off for about two hours. Battery is sitting at a nice 12.6.

I have a voltmeter inside connected to the battery so I have a reading from that. It's always above 14. The car idles at 14.3.

So the fan was not working off my Memphis 16pr1.5kd so I pulled it out and opened it up. Two lines lead from the fan area to a potentiometer. Then looking around some more I find three pins with a jumper across two. Next to that says subsonic on and off. I don't have any adjustment for a ssf on the outside, but could this be set to "on" then the potentiometer used to adjust the it? Or is this potentiometer linked to the fan somehow? I'll be checking to see if the fan works as I've pulled that out. If someone could link or send me a layout of this board that would be helpful, thanks! Edit: also the potentiometer is labeled vr1 while the adjustments on the outside are labeled vr01-vr04. Pins for ssf are labeled sw1.

With my car falling apart and things being broken I'm done with my 18. I currently have the image dynamics 6.5 component set in the front but they wouldn't sound that good without a subwoofer. I can probably get 3-400 for my 18 and the box. With that budget what can I do in the front to make it sound good and still hit decent without a subwoofer. My amp puts 50x4 at 4 ohms, 100x4 at two ohms and 200x2 at 4 ohms.

I have no door rattles, just insane roof and hatch rattles. I could skip deadener for now and just go with fronts and a sub then.

Blurry but you get the idea. Except mine doesn't have holes in the deadener like that one does.

Nope, that is all covered by fords deadener, minus maybe a one inch hole for wires and such. Basically all you see in that picture is covered. I'll see if I can find a picture...

Would one fit in the budget along with fronts and deadened?

That's on the list, to be included in the budget. Door to plastic door panel is covered by the factory pretty well, just inside the door needs deadened.

Almost bought an 18. Used to have sa12s and they're pretty similar.

I plan on using 800-1000 per woofer to start out.

I've never seen or heard them so I couldn't say that part. I plan on running four oa 15s in the back of my escape keeping the rear seats. Just need to get the funds to do so.