JazzScreamer

Can any one help with a parts list that would give me a decent crossover. Looking to spend about $75-80 per crossover. The schematic is listed in this thread. I don't have a lot of experience with selecting components for a crossover, but I can easily put one together. P.S As far a resistors go. Is a 10W resistor good for this application or this overkill?

Brian, I'm looking for a middle of the road price for the crossovers. I don't want to spent $150 for each crossover. I would be will to spent between $100 and $150 for both crossovers. Would you be able to give me a parts lists from PE? Thanks for the schematic.

That would be grand. Could you also give me the part list for the MTM?

This will be mostly for theater purpose (80%). I'm gonna work on my home studio this summer since I will have a bit more time off with most of my students on summer break.

I will look into that. I just sold my PE amp a few weeks ago. I'll need to get a new one if I go this route. Thanks for the advice.

If your willing to do the work several runs of your 12ga will do. I personally would just buy bigger gauge wire. Remember, electricity is dumb. It doesn't know if your running 4 sets of 12 ga or a single 8ga wire as long as the number of strands are relatively the same. Electricity flows on the outer part of your copper wire. The more strands or surface area, the more voltage it can handle. I would still just run a single strand. You will probably run into bulk issues. A single 8ga wire will be much smaller in diameter than a few runs of 12ga because of the jacket on the wire. I'm not sure on the exact math for getting to your desired gauge of wire. KnuKonceptz has some pretty cheap stuff. Good luck.

I made a boo boo. The wire on my remote for the Mini was smashed under a bolt. I was wondering if anyone knew the correct way to repair this coax cable. If any one has one lying around, I would be willing to buy it. Thanks!

Talked to Steve to confirm the fix for the Remote. All I did was soldered the two seperate wires (inner and outer jacket) making sure they didn't touch each other and BAM, it works.

I have a bit of a dilemma. I am moving my sub system to a center console to free up some room under my ext cab Sierra (baby stuff going underneath). I currently have 2 10" under the back seat powered by Zed Mini's. I really like what I'm getting out of them. I've even used just one 10" before and still liked the power. I wanted to make a center console to fit my substage. I can either go 1 10"Arsenal or 2 8" assassins (1st gen). Either will go in a sealed box. I'm not looking for the loudest, just quality. I have not powered up the assassins ever, but hear great things about them. The substage will be run off a Zed Minilith. Any opinions on the two choices. Thanks!!

Here it is..... I have a Defeat ON/OFF switch. If I have the Defeat switch ON the nulls all my setting on the HU correct. I want to bea able to use my Draconia crossover points and play with my EQ on the HU. If I set my HU to Defeat OFF, and set the crossover HP crossover points lower than the settings on my amp and my LP point higher than what I'm running, can I take advantage of my crossover points on the amps and still be able to use my para EQ? Example: HU crossover is set at 20hz HP and my amp is set at 60hz, do I get the 60hz crossover point?

7" would be better, but I could mod an 8" in there.

any suggestion s for a midbass driver?

Yes, I'm using the HU as a two way. I can switch the HU to do 3-way but not sure how I would incorperate a sub into the system with not enough RCA outs. The 6.5 AA poly is in the stock door location with mid located just above that. The tweet is in the A-pillars. All in a 04' Sierra.

I talked to Steve and he is out of Remotes and is backed up with work at the moment. I thought I could find some solution here till I get a new one. Thanks!

I have a bandpass mode on my mid-bass that I would like to keep. My mids are running a HP at 660hz and I have some tweets in the A-pillars that have a passive 5k crossover. I want to be able to adjust a bit. Thw amp is a Draconia. I will try both and see where it leads me.

Does anyone have any input? I tried to fix it by soldering the inner wire and outer wiring (seperate from each other)like Steve did to connect it to the plastic input harness, but this didn't work. Is there a trick to this? LEt me me know. Thanks Guys!!!

That's were I did it. I'm giving my ears a little break before I listen critically. I've been doing some mowing in the yard.

All my grounds are 8ga, except the HU. I will ground the HU with something a bit more stout and see where this takes me.

I have an 8ga ground off my distro. An 1/0 ga is feed from the battery.

HU to amp

I have an 18ga wire running to the draconia ground input. Is that OK?

Ok so I'm still getting a high signal pitch. Here's what I've done.... Disconnect RCA's from Minilith and just ran the Draconia by itself. Result: Eliminates half of the high pitch signal. When I connect the Mini the pitch strengthens. Replaced the RCA's running to the Mini. Results: Nothing Turned down the Gain. Results: Help a little bit,but still have the pitch. On a nother note. I have both subs in the same enclosure (no divider), do I need to run them in or out of phase?

Don't see what? The subs are down firing in the console I built.

I finished the box a few days ago. I wish I would have taken pics of the build but I totally forgot. The box is sealed and has and internal volume of .80cuft and is stuffed with poly fill. I ran two 3/8" strands of all thread through the box and made some supports with some 2" flat stock to bolt down to the seats. The last thing I wanted was this thing flying around in a wreck or sudden stop. The box was made of mostly 3/4" MDF (two sides are 5/8"). I didn't think it was that big of a deal since I am only running a potential of 500W with the 2 8's subs. I love the sound of these. The sound stage has moved forward a bit, and the fact that the box touches the seats and resonates through the seats slightly, really gives a bigger feel to the bass. These little suckers blend well with the front stage. The front stage is a three way with AA Poly's (55-1Khz), 2"CDT Midtweets (800hz and up) and 1" CDT tweets in the A pillars (8K and up with an L-pad for quick adjustment)). I have some EQ on it to tone down a few peaks, but I really like this set up.

Well, I removed the subs from the box and connected them as the Zed manual suggests (one sub to each connect). The power end of the Mini has slots for two subs (two + and two -). Beeping noise is gone. I'm gonna redo the box now and rig it up to connect then as I just did. Not sure what happened but it's fixed now. YEAH!!!