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SS Teacher

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Posts posted by SS Teacher

  4. Posted

    I ran an XCON 10" on a 500 watt Rockford Fosgate T-500 and it sounded great.  I upgraded to a T-1500 and it sounded great and got louder.  You can run 3 18" ZCONs on a 5K and it will sound great IF your box is designed and constructed well, but you won't be getting full potential on 5K watts.

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  6. Posted

    I didn't want to mess with a PC so I bought a Stetsom STX2436  sound processor because it's controlled and set up with an app for my iPhone.  I paid around $200 for it and am satisfied.  It expects only 2 inputs and has 4 outputs so you can't run three way active.  I use the crossover on the sub amp.  I just checked eBay and saw them for less than $150.

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  8. Posted

    Since you asked for opinions... I'd stick to a 1000 to 1500 watt amp so you don't have to do too much to the electrical and get a 15" in a ported box.  Since the box is super important I'd pay for a box design and buy one of SSA's subs (I LOVE my XCON, but they don't make them anymore).  Also, you might be able to save some money and pick up a used amp on Craigslist or OfferUp.  Good luck on your bass quest.

     

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  11. Posted

    On 3/5/2018 at 11:18 AM, Aaron Clinton said:

    Is there any clearance issues or possible chance of impact from something getting under the box?

    No, I have plenty of clearance.  I checked out the tinsel and the one that broke is discolored and the spider is burnt.  I guess the tinsel burnt?  Weird...  

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  12. Posted

    On 3/2/2018 at 5:14 PM, Aaron Clinton said:

    I'll queue up that song to check it out as I like CHVRCHES.  (#closethipster)  Those coils are nuts, when pushing the sub past it's limits, we will have mechanical before thermal break down.  Can I ask how you set your gains?  We have people with double the power with out failures, so it is something else.  How bad is the lead damaged?  Did the Xcon look like it was unloading when you were hammering away?  I personally would suggest the RF with more power over the PRV.  Honestly feel the performance/quality is not a fair comparison.

    The tinsel completely ripped apart right at the area where the shrink wrap stopped.  I didn't take pictures and I've already cut out the cone and cleaned up the basket for the recone, sorry.  I've never had an amp (I don't think I'll count the cheap PPI) that ran over a 1,000 watts, nor have I ever run a ported box before; I have no doubt something was off on the settings.  I'm going to read a few articles and/or watch a few videos before I reset the settings.  As to the unloading question, I can't see the sub as the enclosure (which SSA designed (and I LOVE)) is downward firing to keep the sub safe from prying eyes and stray kayak paddles.  It sounded great, louder than ever before, and then the tinsel popped.

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  13. Posted

    On 3/2/2018 at 3:10 PM, Infinite913 said:

    Im sure A-a-ron will chime in once he sees it. But i stopped by to say sorry man. That is rough. But such a sexy coil right. Lol. I had a customer cut into there spider(not sure what they were doing) and woofer was 2 weeks old. And so I was able to pull it apart and it had such a pretty coil.

    The 2+ year old coil looked just as beautiful as the coil on the recone I ordered!  Love, love, love my XCON.

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  14. Posted

    I was playing "Clearest Blue" by  CHVRCHES and it was pounding, in a moment of foolishness, I pumped up the sub out volume on my HU and the sub was putting out some serious bass and then nothing.  My fears were confirmed when I pulled the XCON 10 yesterday and saw the broken tinsel lead.  I knew I didn't cook the coil as I didn't smell anything, in fact, the coil looked perfect.  I do NOT want to do this again.  I've had the XCON for over 2 years now and it's in a box designed by SSA.  I've fed it with a Rockford Fosgate T-500 bd, then a PPI Black Ice 5000 (1700 watts rms @ 2 ohm (per  manufacturer (yes, I know that number is grossly over inflated)), and finally on a Rocford Fosgate T-1500 BDcP.  I know the 1000 or so rms @ 2 ohm didn't stess the sub thermally, but it has a subsonic filter set at 28hz and my box is tuned to 33hz.  Could that have played a role in the failure?  I picked up a PRV 1200 watt at 4 ohm amp for a great price.  Would I be better off using the PRV because I can set the subsonic filter to 32hz?  My recone is dual 2 so I can run it at 1 ohm on the T-1500 for about 1800 RMS, or I can run it at 4 ohm on the PRV at 1200 watts.  I know I wouldn't be able to hear the difference with that little of a power difference.  Advice?  Oh, I fully understand not to push the sub output on the HU past flat! Hahahahahaha

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  16. Posted

    For $200 I got a Stetsom STX2436 sound processor.  It's bluetooth and I control it from an app on my phone.  The crossovers are the best part with slopes from 6 to 48 db, programable frequencies, and a multitude of crossover types (butterworth, etc).  It does have limited eq features however, only 11 bands graphic and 1 programmable parametric.  Also, it's only 2 channels so I'm running my Evil tweeters and Evil mids (LOVE the results) but I have no eq controls on my XCON 10". 

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  18. Posted

    I'm reconing my XCON.  I was going to have The Speaker Exchange do the work, but after they told me $80 an hour for labor and it could take 2 hours I've decided to do it myself.  Problem is I didn't order glue from SSA because I wasn't expecting to do the work.  Does Lowe's or Home Depot sell a glue that would work?  Thanks

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  20. Posted

    My $.02...

    Don't waste any money on rear fill, with a properly set up front stage it'll only muck things up.

    Alpine amps are great, so are Rockford Fosgate amps.  This is a car audio forum and many seek to try the smaller, less commercial equipment, but mainstream companies can and do put out some good stuff, especially amps.  

    All the PRV mids you listed are 'pro audio" drivers.  Their purpose is to get LOUD with relatively little power.  The compromise they make to achieve this is limited frequency response.  Pro Audio drivers typically lack midbass and unless you cross your subwoofers off at 120hz, you'll have very noticeable gaps in the frequencies covered. 

    To go active you'll need to bandpass your midrange drivers, i.e. lowpass and highpass.  There are a few amps that can do this, as well as a few head units, but your best bet is to get a sound processor.  Many guys on this site use the mini-DSP which is full function and very affordable.  I don't have a PC and really wanted to make adjustments easily so I went with a Stetsom STX-2436 because it was $200, tiny (I have a Jeep Wrangler with very limited space), and a bluetooth app that controls the unit. 

    This was my first active system (previously I was a component guy) and I went with SSA Evil tweets and Evil mids.  I'm still making adjustments, but I'm very happy I went the active route. 

     

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  21. Posted

    On 5/26/2017 at 6:28 PM, bigrank916 said:

    Ok I think I'm getting this. So lets just say I do a 2 way active since a 3 way isn't possible due to processing capabilities of my 80PRS.

    Now my choices are matching up a midbass or midrange with a tweeter. I had an idea to use 4 evil midbass in the doors and evil tweets in the sail and A pillar. From what I've been reading, the midbass would be crossed around 100-120hz. Having a more true midbass driver I need a tweet that can play low. I know they are both SSA Evil but it sure seems like a match to me. Then cross the tweets at around 1.5khz. The sub i would say could be crossed at 63hz. 

    Both mids would be in the driver door, one at the front and one at the back. The rear one will be the hardest to fit and technically it sits behind me and not sure if that would be a waste or not. There is no rear speakers besides those and I will be keeping the back seat so not sure how that might sound to passengers in the rear. Even then its at their feet. 

    Idk what do you guys think of this? Am I on track?

    I have the Evil tweets in the "tombstone pods" on the Wrangler, but the Evil mids are in pods in the dash (about knee level) facing me (I think that's "on axis").  I crossed the Evil tweets at 1500 and wasn't digging it.  I was much happier at 2500 and found the Evil mids blended in nicely at 2500; it was a lot smoother and warmer overall.  I'm still new to running active and need to do some eq'ing, but I am very happy with the Evil mids and tweets run active, I think you will be too.

     

     

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  22. Posted

    16 hours ago, bigrank916 said:

    Ok so I had some down time these last few months on this project due to construction going on around my house and not having the usual space to work in. Sucks tho cause now its gonna be cold and rainy but I wanna get this done bad! 

    I just pulled the trigger tonight on all the goodies. Besides the new alt/batt if needed and wire etc, I will have everything I need to finish this build. Time to get crackin!

    Sub- SSA Xcon 15"

    Sub amp- SoundQubed 2200D

    Mids/Highs amp- NVX JAD800.4

    Mids- SSA Evil 6.5"

    Tweets- SSA Evil 1"

    I'm running the same setup except for an 10" XCON and a RF tT1500bdcp!

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  23. Posted

    It's really good for what it is.  I would have greatly preferred to have an additional output channel so I can adjust my sub.  The physical quality is decent, but it's nothing great.  I love, love, love the fact that it's controlled by an app on my phone and that's the number one reason I chose this unit with a price of $199 being the second consideration.  I would buy this again and recommend this for first timers and people on a budget, but with my next car audio build I will go for a unit that can process my sub as well.  I guess I'll have to borrow a friend's PC (I don't have any friends with a PC so I'll have to make new friends :D) and pay two or three times as much.

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  24. Posted

    Update:  Installed not just the DSP, but replaced the JBL component system with SSA Evil tweets and mids so I can't do a direct comparison.  

    Installation: very, very simple.  Interior space is at a premium in Jeep Wranglers and this thing got stuck behind the dash using double sided automotive tape.  The 2 input and 4 output RCAs are labeled by stickers (one fell off), I would have greatly appreciated color coded connections, but I was careful and didn't mix anything up.  

    Tuning: the app is very intuitive on my iPhone SE, it even includes a demo mode so I got to play around with the large, easy to use menus while the DSP was being shipped from Brazil.  Most settings are easy to adjust by either directly typing in the desired values or by pressing an up or down icon.  My fingers are large and my phone is small but I have no issues fine tuning.

    Sound:  No noise... that's a very good thing!

    Functionality:  13 bands in the graphic eq section with htz values at 25, 63, 160, 400, 1K, 2.5K, 6.3K, and 16K.  You can set different values for all 4 output channels.  There is one user assigned parametric eq frequency.  The crossovers are probably the best part with different typology and slopes from 6 to 48 db.  Very easy to set and tinker with.  In addition there is delay and phase controls as well as an audio generator and battery voltage tool.

     

    Conclusions:  I'm the ultimate neophyte with active crossovers and sound processors so everything is new and I lack the proper vocabulary, so in layman's terms...

     

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  25. Posted

    23 minutes ago, matt_bennett05 said:

    Who would be the best person to get a ported box design drawn up for these two F8L?

    I ordered a box design from the SSA store when I bought my XCONN.  I told them exactly what I wanted, gave them the max dimensions and they designed it for me.  The cut sheet was super helpful, everything was clear and easy to understand, but most of all, the sub sounds great in that box.

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