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SS Teacher

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146 Excellent Member

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About SS Teacher

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday 04/02/1971

Profile Information

  • Real Name Mike
  • Gender Male
  • Location Tampa Bay Area
  • Vehicle 2013 Jeep Wrangler

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  1. Other than power handling, what are you looking for? What vehicle and how much room do you have for the box? The enclosure makes all the difference in the world when it comes to how a sub sounds.
  2. I finally got one! $150 on Offer UP (I did spend 3 hours of my Sunday afternoon in my car though). Can't wait to replace that HUMONGOUS PPI Black Ice and put this "little" beauty under the seat.
  3. Hahahahahahaha, that's like asking which brand of amp I should get! Shocks are important, do NOT skimp and buy cheap. I'm running Old Man Emu shocks on my Jeep and I am quite fond of them, BUT certain brands are better for trucks verses Jeeps, AND certain companies cater to different environments. OME tends to be a good blend for on and off road but not "the best" for purely off road. My friend runs Pro Comp on his Chevy (37"s) and has had good results, but went with Blisten on his Jeep. SOOOOOoooo, in conclusion my advice is to join an F150 forum and get advice and opinions from F150 owners who actively off road.
  4. Never herd the ICON, but my XCON pounded with 500 watts, you don't need to give it RMS to get loud AND sound great at the same time.
  5. I said 100 watts at 2 Ohms is easier on your electrical because most amps are more efficient at 2 and 4 ohms. OP decide what route you're going BEFORE you buy amps and subs. Finding amps that do 1000 watts at 1 ohm is easy. Finding amps that do 1000 watts at 2 ohms is wayyyyy more expensive. Finding amps that run at .5 ohm is very hard on electrical as a daily driver.
  6. I'm obviously no expert, but it looks like this ScanSpeak Limited Edition D2604/8320-02 1" Textile Dome Tweeter has an fs of 500 hz, 100 watts of power handling, and relatively flat frequency response all the way down to 1000 hz on axis. This appears to be a very good match with the SSA Evil mids unless I'm missing something. Opinions?
  7. The dealer is nuts. She's going to destroy her drive shafts and ball joints.
  8. I live in Flordia so I can live with 33"s and 3.23 gears on my 2 door manual. I probably couldn't live with it if I had a JKU and/or hills.
  9. I'll measure the volume of the pods FCA uses, but I know they aren't tiny. They might actually be close to the .30 cubic feet recommended by SSA. I just did some research on Aperiodic venting (I vaguely remember that from the 90s), but I don't want to cut up the factory pods unless I have to. I picked 3kHz because I didn't think I could find a 1" tweeter that could much lower than that.
  10. I most certainly do NOT want to fry my HU! Looks like I've got a little more research to do...
  11. Awesome, got it! I'll check on relays locally and if I can't find one I'll order it from Amazon.
  12. Excellent. Do you just run multiple turn on leads from the relay (with 7.5 amp fuses each) or do you run a distribution block?
  13. Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.
  14. Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix have decent how to guides, but... www.bcae1.com is a GREAT website with tons of basic information, check it out.
  15. I bought an XCON in dual 1 voice coils so I could wire it to 2 ohm and take it easy on my electrical.