stevew007

nope only the one in the blazer and it was only off like 1db from the TL

well i seen those large wire terminals in the recone tips thread and thought the sundown subs came with them new.but i guess i was wrong dont get me wrong that is the only thing im disappointed in.subs look great at a great price and cheap recones there is nothing more i can ask for.I have a sub sitting here from a well known company that wants $130+ shipping for a recone oh and its smaller then the SA

i have 2 c7d techs left from the 12 i bought for this project. they are the 12-90s and for alt i will run a cs144 or the ad244 stock for now until i get a new V8 built and go from there. as for other systems I've had a few here is a few comp cars i built 2 crx's 84 honda hatchback aerostar diesel rabbit 85 s10 blazer 94 astro 85 astro (never built) 89 s10 blazer 88.5 samurai and these are nothing but comp cars one crx had 500 miles put on it in 18 months LOL as for systems I changed them like i chenged my underwear.I've had everything from 1 10" to 4 18's and everything in between. best number's ive done was a 157 sealed on the dash with the astro and a 161.5 outlaw in the samurai and the samurai was crazy loud and had a ton of potential left in her but sealed on the dash was like 5 db down from outlaw. click the picture for video astro before it was painted or even close to being done but i had to make the first show of the year.

not needed no but is a built 350 needed to move my blazer around

Just trying to save you money doing unnecessary things. You can also get gauge reducers if you want, to solve your wire gauge issue. well not worried about saving money it's just funds need to be spent all around. and yes i am talking with toolmaker about them for the amp and might just buy some for the subs.

well with the current project im trying to keep the build simple so funds can go on other things.I've already had 12 batts and a sundown 3500 ready for it but figured i didnt want to destroy my blazer with a wall of 4 15's like i planned here is the ride and here is my plans I have a 5/6 belltech drop,roll pan,new front bumper,do body wokr get it painted . remove all badges and crap.build a 350 for it buy new wheels and tires. it took well over a year and 2 states to find this blazer 89 2wd,4.3,auto,charcoal interior and only has 83k on the od so i want to build it right and make it worth my time.problem is I want to go hangout at the autorama show next month and will not do that without some tunes to play with at dbdrag,iasca show. it sucks because we just moved to cal dec 1st and our house has yet to close and the house we stay in now dont have a garage because they turned it into some half-aced room or i would be balls deep in this BIT@# already

i found the best way is to separate the wire and cut it out of the center because it looks cleaner then hacking it from the outside layer

I dont understand why I'm getting so much hate from this thread!!! I will just pull the terminals off and do direct connect. I was just disappointed because i seen those monster terminals and thought they came with them.my bad for saying anything at all about it. BUT im sure im not the only one that has this same issue. oh and yes birch ply is the bomb to work with.it love's screws staples nails what ever you use and its so much lighter then mdf.i did a dbl layer 12cf box with ports and 45's and crap and i could pick it up by myself with no problems

like i said before there is nothing wrong with a little over kill.or maybe i should rip the power cord off the lamp and use it instead?

yup and im running 0gauge into a memphis belle with and extra batt in the back also. theres no harm in a little over kill. oh I'm also building a double layer box for my 2 sa 10's (out of birch)

wish i would of known that i would of ordered them.because there is no way im putting 8gauge in these terminals.guess i will have to mod them

I just moved to west sac and went to a dbdrag show and I didnt see one person running sundown.seen a ton of DC stuff wow do they like dc here. I'm looking to start an s10 build SSNW in an s10 reg cab and was thinking about running some more sundown.what do you think? going to start small couple of 18's and a single amp for now. but i have to find the right truck first.

yes super street no-wall lol thats the class i would be in with a cut through.kind of a sleeper i guess planning on a 8" in a crappy center console for looks hahaha that way they can all get a good laugh till i pull the seats out. I'm trying to get going on the build but an s10 is hard to find around here with out over paying for garbage or buying something fully bagged and body dropped.

so when are going to come out a with a usaci rated amp or 2

what is legal? what class? what org? very nice number for sure

well i found a new toy that loves the high notes.in our testing it was able to do a 155 outlaw @ 71hrtz with 1 NS12 and a 40.1 on 12 volt.this new vehicle is stock from head to toe. no damp,no duct tape nothing yet.since i was using a freind of mine equipment.I need to start getting my own again so I want to go with a lighter sub like 2 x sa10's and a 3500@.5 to start out with since i cant afford what I need. will the sa 10's hold up to some 71 hrt burps until i can afford some bigger subs and more power? this new vehicle is crazy loud to start out we tested for about 2 hours before we got to a 154.7 with a box that was just sitting in the garage. LOL once i find the sweet box,damp and some trick's I think I can get this close to a 160 outlaw. I've built and modded 6 box's so far even did a bandpass but the sub didnt like the 4rth order and the spiders all came loose. cant wait to get started BUT money is real tight right now for me and mine!

yeah there is a clamp meter but I always like to see DB gains instead of clamped power gains.but then again thats when i was doing street classes with 1 batt under the hood. friend of mine also brought up power compression and told me to add more port. so we will see what the future brings with the new vehicle

too start off I'm not bashing any products this was just a direct swap. we started out with this box on a 40.1 @.5 did a 154.9 then we dropped this in and only came up with this voltage drop was from 15.2 on the volt meter down to 13.4 on the 40.1 and from 15.2 down to 12.3 on the 4500 there was a nsb90 under the hood with 6 runs of wire to the back batteries they are 110lb data safes. the 40.1 was giving some crappy wave's on the TL and the sundown hard perfect wave's on every test we are going to do the 4500 on 16 volts next and see what it will do then here is a pic of the wave with the 40.1

well thats what they said about the crx's when they first got used but now everyone and there mother with a crx dampen's them.also the next best thing is there is only a couple of interior panels.so it will be easy to dampen it and test and remove with in minutes Um, no one deadens them. Where did you get this information from? not sure where you have been but you go on termpro and usaci forum and they will tell you that they deaden! terry brock has his dbl layer the guy from cali that beat brocks street a score a couple years ago a person that took second the same year brocks score got beat american bass team there is a ton of crx's that are matted dc anna's crx is matted the list goes on but like i said it's very easy to test in this vehicle.there is no removing panels and putting them back at all the top 5 in this list had crx's and they all had deaener dB Drag Racing - Street A Place Country Competitor SPL FoMax 1st Team XS SPL - Tuan 156.1 2nd Team SPL Bank - Scott 155.6 3rd Ryan Ferguson 155.4 4th Team Neo - Eric 155.3 5th Terry Brocks 155.3 6th Advanced Mobile Toys 154.6 7th Team Gameover 154.3 8th

cash flow! this is not a daily driver setup it will be built and used with budget in mind. so finding the what these subs like and what will help them last a couple of shows will be key because its easier and cheaper to burp a high score then it is to build something to play 35hrtz everyday at the same high score well thats what they said about the crx's when they first got used but now everyone and there mother with a crx dampen's them.also the next best thing is there is only a couple of interior panels.so it will be easy to dampen it and test and remove with in minutes

because your not allowed to beat the fender in the get a bigger battery under the hood! makes you wonder what other rules they broke to get the big numbers??? Totally wrong!!! Ya need to know your rules before you open your mouth!!! wow take a chill pill!!!!! when i got my first crx and started to do homework on the batt there was a ton of BS about pounding in the fender. there were judges that would not let you do it there was some that said screw it.I'm pretty sure there was a rule about it also.maybe they did change it I dont know. theres not enough dbdrag around me to even look at the rules anymore. so goodluck

i had to move the relay and take out the bright's headlight bulb now you can put in the electric fan from a acura and get the battery in the way you have it without smashing in the fender also. when i had that battery in there was a rule about the batts how you could not change anything to add a bigger battery

Why is that ? because your not allowed to beat the fender in the get a bigger battery under the hood! makes you wonder what other rules they broke to get the big numbers??? That is allowed... otherwise nobody would have a battery this size in a CRX under the hood. Per dB Drag Rules : 6-8i -- "The primary battery must be located in the same general area as the OEM battery location. (For example, if the OEM battery location is under the hood, the primary battery must be located under the hood as well. Aftermarket battery trays and/or custom fabricated battery brackets may be installed provided no other applicable rules are violated.)" * It is a custom fabricated "battery tray"... that is also not defined as a modification to the vehicle skin (per the following): "Modifications to the external OEM "skin" (body) of the vehicle are not permitted if the modification in question will result in a change in the vehicle's interior volume. The dBDRA defines the "skin" of the vehicle as the external shell (top, front, back, and sides) of the vehicle's OEM body that gives the vehicle its distinctive appearance. This is also the part of the vehicle that is normally painted. The underside or undercarriage of the vehicle is not considered to be a part of the OEM "skin"." "Modifications that are strictly cosmetic in nature, or that do not affect the internal volume of the vehicle are permissible. " * That part of the vehicle is the under-carriage and does not change the internal vehicle volume. well i retract my earlier statement LOL.BUT if you go on the sundown team section and look at "willis" ME I had a nsb90 under the hood without smashing in the fender the only thing i had to do was move a relay about 6 inchs! i thought i included that picture I'll have to find it and post it

Why is that ? because your not allowed to beat the fender in the get a bigger battery under the hood! makes you wonder what other rules they broke to get the big numbers???

well that crx should of never been allowed in any street class!