nadcicle

Never held it in my hand, but i'm sure it'd help. Thing is, my entire dash flexes like mad. I'd have to put a stripper pole through the thing and weld it to the floorboard. And this was with 1/4th the power and different system.

If you're helping a friend then i'd suggest them not being able to control any of the settings without any training with their equipment. For this reason I'd say grab a minidsp and run that and set it yourself and then he won't be able to easily change settings without a pc this way you aren't getting a call every other day wondering why his left doorspeaker sounds muffled or his mid sounds further right.

It does it with any usb I plug in to unit. Jump drive, either ipod, either ipad. I've tried holding the headunit still, but I believe it to be just the massive shaking that keeps knocking it out. I'm tempted to solder external usb extensions directly to the board.

Well, decided against the second shelf and am going to grab a crossflow fan for cooling. Running gain matched and ready for some shows this weekend.

frog i share that same issue with my build. Although I do peak lower sealed vs door open and I have to adjust my frequency for burp to obtain close to the same score.

Lol thanks! Man, I've been running into A LOT of roadblocks. It seems a lot of people are asking about it. Guess it'll come down this weekend lol Don't worry, it'll eventually fall down like much of anything else attached to the headliner. Ask me how I know ? :*(

Legit bro

Oh, It just requires a diode, switch, and camera. At least I'm hoping lol

Another idea I already have that many others have done and you could use is this. Use 1 camera to your headunit and have it on the reverse trigger and have a switch trigger. So when you put it in reverse it comes on and when you wanna change lanes you can flip the switch and it'll turn on and you can turn it right back off afterwards. The reverse trigger usually works off of a positive trigger for the Clarions that is like Purple in color. I even have a camera we can test with and you can decide if it's a cheap POS or not.

The Group 29's in your sig are jealous.

Sounds good as always!

In all fairness I think if we would have built an enclosure for that thing the increase would have been much more. I'd personally use the 6 spoke option with a custom plastic motor spacer if you can get them machined cheap enough. I believe the cost of the frame would offset the fact of the spacer vs a ti frame. Hell, you don't technically "need" a machined spacer, You could lengthen'd bolts with numerous nuts as well. Even a sleeved style aluminum tube spacer. Possibilities are endless really. The ti's are nice, but that doesn't negate that they are one of the most expensive baskets there are and I have a great feeling your goal was to always remain price/performance, but if using a cheaper basket cuts in to the performance margin then by all means disregard my post.

I just wanna first make sure if you're aware that strapping two if those 2 ohm amps means you need your subs to have a final ohm load of 4 Ohms? Secondly, I don't want to confuse you as to why my slave amp went on both setups. It was for absolutely no good reason each time. The strapped aq2200's were only 3 Batts and a mechman and never were below 13.5. It just stopped playing and that was it. Got it repaired and was told "that's what slave amps do a lot of times". So I strapped them for another few months with no problems and sold them later. Move forward to recently. I've toroughly test my 2 4ks separately and felt prepared for a nice long weekend of dishing demos at slamology on my strapped setup. By this time I'm up to 6 batts and don't take voltage down much. Anyways like 4 or 5 demos total on Friday night beatoff I started smelling strong electrical. Everything was still working fine, but I turned it off and tore it apart the next morning to find the bastard slave had smoked some fets. I hate strapping, but I do it out of being rushed and lazy. Even though the thing still worked to me it's failed and for no reason other than being a slave since I had it in my wife's car beating the living shit out of it on half ohm dipping in to 10-11 volts on her burps no problem.

I'm glad I wasn't drinking anything. I'm waiting on a guy with no formal training that's done AC work all his life get in to car audio and drive a spike in the ground and ground it outside of the car.

Ground Body = No Ground Frame = Yes Use Grounds period = Yes -> if to frame and NOT the body

I have one brand new in the package still. I also have a 16?ton hydraulic crimper. Boy do I love that thing lol.

Well, that's exactly what you'll hear, but then again those people will also tell you they were at least running full electrical to the strapped pair. Mechman elite 370 and numerous batteries to deal with the current demand. They did a good job and I would run them again.

Great start man.

I will add atleast 2 more or 4 more........ honestly. But who knows the Van may surprise me and be loud as balls with the flat wall and 4 of them. The windshield has a huge slope to it so it will be interesting to see how that affects the fs response. I have ideas if you decide to do any more

I didn't really sell out everyone. I kept a few on the side for special people. I'm special dammit!

I said it before as well. Get that van going. You won't be near as hesitant if you have to cut, break, or modify something in the van and the biggest advantage is being able to work on it anytime you want since it'll be in the garage with light.

Well, hooked up and sounding great with the USD mids. Tuning will never be done, but I got it started for now.

Kinda tossing up the idea of using the mids from my Image Dynamic cxs 64's vs my USD audio mids. On one hand the ID's mid's are some of the tightest hitting midrange's i've heard, but I feel they become lackluster with sheer output. The USD's are more of a boomy midbass that just hammer my doors all around and just keep taking power, but require a bit more finessing with the tuning. Oh, and they look like crap from repairs. They will be hiding behind the doors anyways and I feel i've kind of talked myself in to it. I can always resell the ID's later I guess.

Little more work on the truck today. Put this off for far too long IMO.

I've seen belts that are too small cause load on the bearings and cause excessive wear making that noise. I'd contact Mechman just like you're doing and make sure you don't need a different size belt for your application.