nadcicle

This I like! Quick question, we currently have quite a few clamped classes hitting organizations across the US and was just wondering if you guys have any future plans of implementing something like this in to the mix to be a direct competitor the the TL? Truthfully, I could care less about clamping normally, but if I have to do it in my org then I'd just like to have it if possible instead of pulling out my clamp, and two multimeters.

Sounds like some kind of weird fan clutch issue with it heating up and cooling so often.

Never said I was. I do know that there are very few people here that use these. Are you debating that anything that I said wasn't true? I didn't intend to hurt the guys feelings, but if it were anyone else the guy wouldn't have been told any differently. I can't help it he didn't give the whole story. Then the fella goes on about my reading comprehension ability when I read exactly what he posted and used that information to give him an informative answer. I don't need you coming in here cupping his balls to try and make it any different. My answer stands given the information and attitude from his post.

No just no, I'm not sure if you even read the post. Your post wasn't helpful at all because I already knew all this, and normally you'd be right but it's definitely not me turning up the alternator past 15.4 when I've been driving for 30+mins. Sometimes when I start the car the voltage is 12.8, sometimes it's over 16. This is why it helps to give the second bit of information. No need to get defensive. Everything you described sounded like someone that lacked knowledge of how an alternator worked. Had you included the bit about sometimes its 12.8 and sometimes it's over 16 I would have given you a completely different answer. Now as it stands, you get no help from one of the few people that uses a VCM. Good luck.

Everything you have described is the fault of how a alternator works. On cold start up an alternator will be significantly higher in voltage on those cold days. After you get the alternator warmed up it will slowly start to sag on voltage. It does this because electrical components heat up and become less efficient. When you set your voltage with one of these things you must do it while cold. Keeping voltage that high will eventually turn in to gassing and can be harmful to your batteries in the long run causing premature oxidation and bulging. Personally, i would only turn up to 15 if you are going to pull up to the lanes. Even still, I would turn it back down to the 14.2-14.6 for daily.

Welcome dude. I believe i've seen a few of your videos.

Describe "really hot"? You are comparing 2 completely different technologies here. Your 6 phase is designed to dissipate heat much better than a traditional coil wrapped alternator. Is your factory alt still in the big system loop? If so is the path to the system the same or shorter in length than the aftermarket alt? Best way to test is to disconnect the singer and hit the factory alt with a laser thermometer and measure it then hook it back up and do the same. I can still cook eggs on my 6 phase no problem just at idle.

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. If you have a multimeter can you try hooking it up to the inputs of the amplifier and measure the voltage drain on heavy bass hits to make sure your voltage isn't the culprit here. I have my idea as to what it could be with it being an A/B amp. I had an old JVC that did the exact same in 3 channel mode. It simply just wasn't a good enough amp for that particular job of driving the sub the way I wanted and it made me keep putting the gain for the sub channel well in to clipping to get it loud enough for my liking.

Some what of a hair trick and low frequency tuning...I like how swifts is Normally i'd say cool because you said hair trick and that would be the end of that because it meant demo'n only. However, after seeing people hitting 60's in the 26-28hz range lately would you still be trying to hit numbers as well or could you care less?

It all depends on what the purpose of the build is. Do you want a "hot seat" style setup to give demos with? Do you want to meter sealed up on the dash on the passenger side? You want super low frequency tuning? Would you like to play with 1 or both doors open, perhaps even just windows? Tons of factors here.

Yes, Casey@Ct-Sounds.com

Worse comes to worse tell Casey you got it from me. Warranty is full transferable, then if the new one does the same then sell it like everyone says.

Frame is the preferred method, but if you cannot get to the frame try to find an area and clear it of any dust and debris and proceed to sand it down before using it. Try and use fasteners of the appropriate size that fit in the lug opening or use a ground block that mounts to the surface with hardware. I find ground to be just as important as the power wire itself to be able to complete a circuit and shouldn't be thrown on just any old seat bolt or trunk latch bolt without assessing to make sure the area is capable first.

Ah!, you are the 1 that bought the brand new one. Yes I did hook it up to make sure that it worked before I shipped it out. The reason it was new was because the one before it was blown during Slamology. That one was never stressed. It was simply hooked up to power and turned up until we seen it was pushing the transducer. I even made a video of it working that SWIFT recorded me on. That thing has only ever seen power for the second time. The first was just for me to appease myself when it came in to make sure it wasn't dead on arrival. The second was to document the serial number and buyers username. The used amp that was for sell at the same time was the one that got put through the paces. I personally didn't have anything but problems with that bass knob with the original one. I literally threw the damn thing away cause it got on my nerves with showing incorrect voltage, premature clipping, and not being a gain knob, but more of a bass boost knob.

I knew a guy that had 2 of these. Something is either wrong with the amp or like others have said, your electrical isn't up to par. This did better on a clamp and got louder on a meter over a nendo 5500 in my setup. Hell, mine was done on a 0.5ohm dcr and put out near 60% better than your posting. I can't even remember the rise as this was some time ago. I can also add that I blew 1 of 2 of them Friday night at slamology so I had to wire the 1 to 2.1ohm dcr and went in the 4k class and clamped 2700 watt. Oh, and yes the clip light is utter rubbish on those things.

No problem man. The guy is a competitor himself and just wants to offer stuff to others out there without taking advantage like some of these companies are. Hell it's hard to convince me that a few pieces of steel/aluminum, a belt, some pulleys and bolts cost more than a hundred bucks. I don't mind an extra 100 for labor, but i've seen dual brackets for 350 or more. Just crazy prices.

Tell him Teric sent you.

Most used prices are mostly more than Jimmy Zukauska new prices on Facebook.

Couldn't agree more. Was a play on the discussion. Sure it reflects how I and most of the board feels, but it would be a further waste of money on the end here that pads some asshats pockets. Self defeating in that respect. See I took it as a play on one of the "Smash my xbox" type things where we go get an xbox just to say we were going to give it away to someone only to have them watch us smash it first. I guess that it is kind of mean and a waste, but I've wasted my money on other stuff that didn't make sense and was a waste.

I'd send 20

This would have been a perfect time for Swift to of still had his. I'm almost positive this would have definitely went down lol

Well it is made of plastic. Probably kinda light. Perhaps a wrestling prop where someone can slam it down and watch it shatter in a thousand pieces would be most useful. I bet we could measure the sound of it slapping the floor at 40hz then

I figured this much as it's sometimes not needed when done on the smaller stuff. I use it liberally when I go attaching the entire pack to the basket personally. Nothing like getting high while reconing I always say lol

Just to give a little incite as to what I feel why most people don't like these things. You set your gain at a single frequency as previously mentioned. Music does not play one frequency and with that being said is dynamic in such a way that different frequencies will have different power requirements from your system as a whole. Your song may dip to below 30 hz and clip like crazy because each amp is different in their dynamic capability. On the other hand it seems people are also confused on whether to set everything with the car on/off, what volume the head unit is at, or even where the subwoofer level is. It is much better to familiarize yourself with your entire system in such a fashion you can hear things by ear so you can get a sense what sounds right/wrong.

I believe Q made a post about how he sandwiches them together with a custom jig he made that applies even pressure around the spiders. If I had to guess I would say that he likely uses some Cyanoacrylate glue in the center and some on the outside of the spiders in between each set of spiders then likely sprays activator after he gets them all together in the vicelike device.